Chaetomorpha (Chaeto) Macroalgae - Reef Genetics
Chaetomorpha (Chaeto) Macroalgae - Reef Genetics
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Goes well with:
Chaeto macroalgae (Chaetomorpha linum) is the standard refugium algae for fast, dependable nutrient export. Its wiry green strands use nitrate and phosphate, stay free from rockwork, and form a dense refuge for copepods, amphipods, and mysid shrimp. Unlike many attached or runner-forming algae, Chaetomorpha remains a loose mass that is simple to harvest.
Chaeto macroalgae quick care facts
| Scientific name | Chaetomorpha linum |
|---|---|
| Algae group | Green filamentous macroalgae |
| Care level | Easy |
| Light | Moderate to high, full spectrum or refugium grow spectrum |
| Water flow | Moderate to high; a slow tumble is ideal |
| Growth rate | Fast |
| Best placement | Refugium or macroalgae reactor |
| Nutrient export | High |
| Food value | Low; valued mainly as filtration and pod habitat |
| Portion | Golf Ball, Tennis Ball, or Soft Ball |
Why keep Chaeto macroalgae?
- Fast growth turns nitrate and phosphate into removable biomass.
- Does not root into rockwork and has a very low risk of becoming invasive.
- Dense strands shelter breeding copepods, amphipods, and mysid shrimp.
- A reverse photoperiod can offset part of the display tank’s overnight pH drop.
Lighting, flow, and nutrients
Run a dedicated refugium light 12–16 hours per day, often opposite the display lights. Use enough flow to move water through the mass and, when possible, rotate it slowly so every side receives light. The Brightwell ChaetoGro supplies nutrients formulated for Chaeto, but only dose after testing; nitrate and phosphate must remain measurable for growth.
Refugium or display tank?
Keep Chaeto in a refugium or macroalgae reactor rather than the display. Loose strands can drift into pumps and the wiry mass is not an attractive permanent aquascape. Leave room for the ball to expand without blocking the chamber, and prevent it from pressing against a hot light or pump intake.
Harvesting and pruning
When the chamber fills or the center begins to shade, remove one-third to one-half of the mass. That physical removal is the nutrient export. Keep the cleanest bright-green portion and pull out dark, soft, or compacted areas. Do not let a large ball become so dense that water cannot pass through it.
Troubleshooting Chaeto macroalgae
Chaeto that stops growing usually lacks usable light, flow, nitrate, phosphate, or trace iron. A pale outer layer can indicate excessive intensity; a dark, dirty center points to self-shading and detritus. Test before dosing. If nitrate and phosphate are both zero, shorten the refugium photoperiod or reduce the culture before adding supplements.
How Chaeto macroalgae compares
Chaeto is the strongest all-around refugium choice because it grows quickly without attaching. Red Ogo and Pom Pom Gracilaria also export nutrients and can be fed to herbivores. Sea Lettuce grows fast but can fragment or undergo a reproductive event, so it needs closer harvesting.
Portion sizes, shipping, and acclimation
Choose a Golf Ball starter amount, a Tennis Ball portion, or a larger Soft Ball portion. Float the sealed bag to equalize temperature, then rinse the algae in discarded aquarium water and inspect it. Start the culture a little farther from the refugium light for several days before increasing intensity.
Pairs well with
Kessil H80 Tuna Flora or AI Blade Refugium Light for growth, Brightwell ChaetoGro for targeted supplementation, Live Mixed Copepods for habitat seeding, and nitrate/phosphate test kits for control.
Expert buying guidance
Chaetomorpha (Chaeto) Macroalgae FAQs
What are the downsides of using Chaeto?
Chaeto needs dedicated light, room, flow, and measurable nutrients. A dense ball can trap detritus, shade its center, and stall. It can also strip nitrate and phosphate too low if the refugium is oversized. Loose strands may reach pumps. Regular rotation, testing, and harvesting prevent most of these problems.
Where should I put Chaeto in my aquarium?
Place Chaeto in a sump refugium, hang-on refugium, or macroalgae reactor where it cannot enter a return pump. Give it broad water movement and enough open space to expand. It is usually a poor display-tank plant because the loose wiry mass can drift and does not attach neatly to rock.
How much light does Chaeto need?
Use a dedicated full-spectrum or red-and-blue refugium light at moderate-to-high intensity for about 12–16 hours daily. Many reef keepers run it opposite the display photoperiod. Begin a newly shipped portion at reduced intensity or greater distance, then increase gradually to avoid bleaching the outer strands.
How fast will Chaeto grow?
Healthy Chaeto can grow quickly enough to require harvesting every few weeks, but there is no fixed rate. Light, water movement, nitrate, phosphate, iron, and available space all matter. Judge success by sustained bright-green new growth and nutrient trends, not by trying to force a particular doubling schedule.
Can Chaeto get too much light?
Yes. Excessive intensity can pale or bleach the surface while the shaded center remains dark. Light shock is especially common when a shipped portion goes directly under a powerful LED. Reduce intensity or increase distance, maintain flow, and acclimate over several days. More light will not help if nutrients are already depleted.
Do I need to tumble Chaeto?
Tumbling is helpful but not mandatory. A slow rotation exposes every side, sheds detritus, and reduces self-shading. If the chamber cannot tumble the mass, turn it by hand during maintenance and make sure water moves through rather than around it. Prune before the center becomes tightly packed or shaded.
