What you’ll learn
About This Video
Key takeaways
- Choose a tank size you can maintain consistently.
- All-in-one systems favor simplicity; sumps provide expansion room.
- Cycle the aquarium fully before adding livestock.
- Add cleanup crew, fish, and corals gradually.
- Perform weekly 10% to 15% water changes and test regularly.
- Prioritize stable parameters over perfect numbers.
Read the full video transcript
What's going on reefers? Blaine here. In today's video, we're going to be talking about the foundation of reefing. Starting your very own saltwater aquarium. Whether it be vibrant coral colonies, clown fish swimming in an M, or just building something beautiful from scratch, it's all about starting with the foundation and learning how to do it and the why. Let's dive in. [Music] Every reef tank starts with a decision, and usually it's the tank size. At first, it's tempting to go small. Nano tanks under 30 gallons seem easier and more affordable, which they can be more affordable, but small tanks swing fast. Salinity, temperature, nutrients. There's less room for error. They can work, but they demand discipline. Midsize systems around 40 to 75 gallons hit the sweet spot. They're large enough for stability and flexibility. Small enough to stay manageable and just big enough to start with real coral and fish diversity. That's why tanks like 40 breeders or 75gal reef ready systems are often where successful reefers begin. And then there are the 100 plus gallon systems. A dream for many and absolutely worth it if you have the space, budget, and dedication. More water volume means more room for fish, more aquacaping options, and slower parameter shifts. But it also means more gear, more planning, more hands-on maintenance, and at times more money. Once you've settled on the size of your tank, there's one more decision to make before filling it with water. What kind of filtration setup you want. And in reefing, that usually comes down to two different paths. All-in-one tanks and tanks with sumps. All-in-one tanks tuck everything into the back of the display. filtration chambers, return pump, heater, even media baskets. It's a self-contained ecosystem designed for simplicity. You don't need to plum anything. You don't need a separate cabinet for equipment. And for many beginners, it's the cleanest way to get started without a ton of extra gear. But that simplicity comes at a cost. The back chambers are small, can get cramped, and are harder to upgrade. skimmers, reactors, and attos all have to fit into a tight spot, and your total water volume is lower, which means less biological cushion when things go wrong. You give up precious display volume for that back chamber of filtration. On the other hand, a sumpbased system moves your life support equipment out of the display and down below the tank, usually in a cabinet. It adds water volume, opens up room for gear, and gives you access to more advanced options like refuge gyms, larger skimmers, controller boards, and dosing setups. It also hides the clutter, giving your display that clean, open look reapfers love. But sumps take planning. Plumbing needs to be dialed in. You'll deal with overflow boxes, return lines, and backup systems. It's a little bit more intimidating upfront, but it offers flexibility that scales with your reef and your reefing capability. Neither path is wrong, and they're just different philosophies. If you're going for ease, minimal gear, and a soft coral garden, potentially, an all-in-one may be all you need. If you're chasing for SPS dominant tank, or long-term growth, potentially, a sum system sets the stage for success. Whatever style you choose, remember this. The best reef tank is the one you can maintain long term. Consistency outweighs complexity. Once the glass box is chosen, the next step is life support, the gear. Sometimes in freshwater tanks, they're a bit more flexible and forgiving at times. Whereas in saltwater systems, they rely on tightly controlled parameters. That means good equipment isn't optional. It's everything. You'll need an RODi filter to produce zero TDS water, a reliable heater to hold temperatures between 76 to 80°, a return pump to power flow back into the tank, at times power heads to create turbulence, and lighting, arguably one of the most important investments to drive coral growth and coloration. For softies and LPS, they don't require a ton of light. If you're planning for SPS down the road, they will need ample lighting to really support them. Add in an atto system to manage evaporation and keep salinity stable. For me, honestly, this could be the most important piece of equipment you end up picking up. Some tanks may benefit from a protein skimmer, especially if you plan on feeding heavily, keeping nutrients sensitive corals, or having a heavy bile load. Others may lean on refugeiums or media reactors. Either way, make sure your system has redundancy and room for growth. But before any of that matters, every reef needs to build one thing, biology. And that's where the nitrogen cycle steps in. The nitrogen cycle is the invisible backbone of every successful aquarium. Without it, waste becomes poison. With it, waste becomes manageable. It begins with ammonia created when food, fish waste, or any other organic properties begin to break down. Ammonia is lethal even in trace amounts. That's where nitrifying bacteria can come in. First nitroamonus bacteria colonize the tank and convert ammonia into nitrite which is also toxic. Then nitrospira or nitrobactor step in to convert nitrite into nitrate which is far less harmful. This process doesn't happen overnight. It takes weeks for bacterial colonies to form and stabilize. But you can speed things up with bottled bacteria. Products like TurboArt or Microbacttor 7 jumpstart this process. You'll also need an ammonia source. Pure ammonium chloride or a decaying shrimp can both get this cycle going. You'll know the cycle is progressing when ammonia spikes then drops, nitrite spikes, then drops, and nitrates show up. That's your green light. Until then, resist the urge to add livestock. Patience in the beginning saves lives in the long run. When your cycle is complete, the first life you add isn't actually fish. It's some of your cleanup crew. snails, hermit crabs, shrimp, maybe an emerald crab, but make sure it's only 10% of the needed cleanup crew. They're your front line against algae, uneaten food, and detritus. You're not just stalking workers. You're laying the groundwork for a biological balance. If there's no algae present, of course, supplemental feeding may be needed. Then comes the part everyone loves and looks forward to. Fish and coral. Start simple. Hearty, peaceful species like clownfish, royal gromas, or gobies are ideal first choices for beginners. They're colorful, active, and relatively easy to care for and ultimately hardy. For corals, stick to the soft corals and beginner LPS. So, anthids, mushrooms, leathers, and Duncan corals all offer movement, color, and tolerance for imperfect conditions. Add livestock slowly. Your system needs to adjust after each new inhabitant. Monitor nutrients. Watch behavior. Test often. Reef tanks don't respond well to sudden change. Just like Rome, it cannot be built overnight. Once you have life in your tank, you need a rhythm, a maintenance routine. This is where good habits build great reefs. Weekly 10 to 15% water changes keep trace elements fresh and nutrients under control. Test your water, salinity, alkalinity, calcium, magnesium, nitrate, and phosphates. Clean your glass. Top off your HO reservoir. Keep your gear clean. And most importantly, stay consistent. As corals grow, you'll begin dosing to maintain calcium and alkalinity and the other trace elements. That can be done manually or with auto dosing pumps. Either way, your goal is to create a stable, balanced environment where growth can take off. Reefing mistakes can and will happen, but they can be easily avoided. Don't overstock. Don't skip the cycle. Don't chase after those perfect numbers. Chase the stable ones. Quarantine your new fish. Make sure to dip your corals from anywhere you're getting them. And above all, take your time. One common mistake we see far too often with beginners is adding anemmones right off the start. These animals might look hearty, but they require a stable, mature system to thrive. Adding them too early often leads to wandering, shrinking, and eventually melting away. Give your tank time to build up. Wait a few months until nutrients, light, and the biodiversity has developed, and your flow is now locked in before introducing these nemes. A reef tank is a living system. It rewards patience. It reflects consistency and when it thrives, it becomes more than just a display. It becomes your reefing story. A living reef that is in your care. If you're just getting started, I want to say welcome to the saltwater hobby. Make sure to utilize all of your resources and TopShelf Aquatics is a great one. Whether it be the channel here where we have a slew of information available or coming into the retail store or heading to our website where you can pick up aquacultured corals, great gear for your system, and just overall really good stuff. If you guys have hung out all the way till the end, I want to say thank you very much. Welcome to the hobby. And be sure to like, subscribe, and hit the bell notification so you don't miss out on any future uploads. [Music]