Circus Freak Zoanthid Coral

Circus Freak Zoanthids Coral

Sale price  $39.99 Regular price $69.99
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Circus Freak Zoanthid Coral

Circus Freak Zoanthids Coral

SKU: CTOxCircusFreakZ

Sale price  $39.99 Regular price $69.99
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Grow your Circus Freak Zoanthids with:

Quick Specs

Care Level
Shop live corals by care level: Easy
Flow
Shop live corals by flow: Moderate
Lighting
Shop live corals by lighting: Moderate
Placement
Shop live corals by placement: Low–Mid
Growth Rate
Shop live corals by growth rate: Fast
Temperament
Peaceful to semi-aggressive(2–3 inches spacing)
Feeding
Photosynthetic(primary), microplankton, phytoplankton, zooplankton, rotifers, cyclops, powdered coral foods, reef roids, marine snow
Description
Photo is of mother colony. Frags will be 2-3 polyps.

Aquacultured Zoanthids and Palythoa Coral

Zoanthids are among the most popular corals in the reef hobby, admired for fluorescent color, bold patterns, and fast growth. These soft corals form colonial mats of polyps that can carpet rockwork, and varieties such as Rastas, Eagle Eyes, and Pandoras show the group's range. Their adaptability makes zoa coral a favorite for reefers at every experience level.

Zoanthids are closely related to palythoa. The two look similar, but palythoa species tend to have larger polyps and form thicker mats. Palythoa coral care generally follows the same guidance below. We farm and propagate our zoanthids for sale from healthy mother colonies in our Florida aquaculture facility.

Handle With Care: Palytoxin

Some palythoa and zoanthid species can produce palytoxin, a potent toxin that can be harmful to humans and pets. Always wear gloves and eye protection when handling these corals, practice good hygiene afterward, and never expose them to high heat, which can release toxins into the air.

Zoanthid and Palythoa Care at a Glance

Parameter Recommended Range
Care level Beginner-friendly and hardy
Lighting Moderate, 75–150 PAR
Water flow Moderate and indirect
Temperature 75–80°F
Salinity 1.024–1.026
Calcium 380–450 ppm
Alkalinity 8–9.5 dKH
Magnesium 1250–1350 ppm
Nitrate 5–15 ppm
Phosphate <0.10 ppm
Origin Indo-Pacific; aquacultured by Top Shelf Aquatics

Water Chemistry

Zoanthids tolerate minor parameter fluctuations better than some corals, but stability is still the key to long-term growth and color. Test regularly and make small adjustments.

Lighting

In the wild, zoanthids live in shallow reef flats, lagoons, and rocky outcrops around Indonesia, Fiji, and the Great Barrier Reef, where light is plentiful. In the aquarium they do well across a wide range of lighting, with 75–150 PAR as the ideal. Some varieties handle high light and color up even more under it, but most need a slow transition to avoid stress or bleaching. We grow ours under a combination of EcoTech Marine Radions and metal halides.

Water Flow

Moderate, indirect flow keeps debris off the polyps and delivers nutrients while letting the colony stay open and fully extended. Flow that is too strong can cause polyps to close. We use EcoTech Marine MP pumps, Reef Octopus OCTO Pulse, and Sicce XStream wavemakers to create adjustable flow, and we place colonies where movement is steady but gentle.

What We Feed Our Zoanthids

Zoanthids get most of their energy from symbiotic zooxanthellae, and they also capture dissolved nutrients and fine plankton from the water column. We feed our exclusive Royal Flush phytoplankton blend (Tisochrysis, Rhodomonas, and Tetraselmis), and Reef Roids and Benepets a few times a week also support health and color. Broadcast feed, or lightly target-feed the colony with a turkey baster, and pause flow for about 10–15 minutes so the polyps can feed.

Coloration and Growth

Colors range from neon greens and deep blues to pinks and bright orange zoanthids, often with intricate patterns. Lighting spectrum, water quality, and feeding all influence color. Nutrient-rich foods, amino acids, and trace elements such as iodine and iron support pigmentation. In good conditions, a small frag grows into a dense mat that adds texture and color to open rockwork.

Common Challenges

  • Overgrowth: colonies spread quickly and can overrun neighboring corals; trim and place them strategically
  • Pests: nudibranchs and zoa-eating spiders are common threats; inspect and dip new additions
  • Light sensitivity: acclimate gradually before moving colonies into higher light
  • Polyp retraction: excessive flow or debris buildup can keep polyps closed

How We Farm Our Zoanthid Frags

Our team of marine biologists monitors water parameters across more than 30,000 gallons of farmable water volume. We frag healthy mother colonies into manageable pieces, mount each frag on a plug with reef-safe glue or epoxy, and grow them out under Radions and metal halides with dynamic flow.

How to Acclimate Zoanthids and Palythoa

  1. Temperature: float the bag in your aquarium for 15–20 minutes to equalize temperature.
  2. Drip acclimation (optional): a precautionary step to introduce your tank water gradually; zoanthids may adapt to your system more slowly with this method.
  3. Lighting: start the colony in a lower-light area, or reduce intensity, then increase light gradually over 2–3 weeks.
  4. Placement: glue or epoxy the frag to rockwork or a ledge with moderate, indirect flow, and watch its behavior and color while it adjusts.
FAQs Common questions about Circus Freak Zoanthids Coral

Why do my Circus Freak Zoanthids stretch tall or shrink close to the rock within days?

Rapid polyp “posture” changes usually reflect light and flow shifts. Tall, skinny stalks suggest chasing light; tight, compact skirts indicate enough PAR or too much flow. Aim for moderate, indirect flow and ~80–150 PAR. Ramp LEDs slowly after acclimation. If colors dull or skirts fray, reduce white channels and boost blues; if brown film builds, increase flow and export nutrients.

My colony stopped spreading despite stable parameters—what hidden factors slow Zoanthus sp. growth?

Subtle chemical warfare and ultra-low nutrients often stall mats. Run fresh carbon and keep NO3 ~5–15 ppm, PO4 ~0.03–0.1 ppm. Space them 2–3 inches from leathers or palys. Remove film algae at the base with a soft brush. Target feed fine foods weekly to encourage new polyps, and maintain alk stability to avoid mid-mat recession.

How do I keep the bold rings and fluorescence on the Circus Freak morph?

This morph holds color best under blue-heavy spectrum with moderate PAR. Increase blues/violets (420–470 nm) while keeping whites modest; sudden high white can wash reds/oranges. Keep iodine and trace within normal reef ranges via water changes. Avoid prolonged high nutrients that mute rings; equally, don’t strip nutrients to zero, which leads to pale skirts and poor growth.

Which pests target Circus Freak Zoanthids, and how do I confirm and treat without over-dipping?

Watch for zoa-eating nudibranchs, sundial snails, and spiders; inspect at night with a red light. Look for eggs on mat undersides. Use a focused approach: manual removal, a gentle iodine dip, and a turkey baster to dislodge pests. Repeat every few days through a full egg cycle. Avoid harsh, long dips that can trigger polyp shutdown or bacterial issues.
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SKU: CTOxCircusFreakZ

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