Aquacultured Gorgonian Coral coral identification and care guide

Aquacultured Gorgonian Coral

Overview

Gorgonian Coral forms a flat, branching fan with rows of small polyps along its branches. Gorgonia sp. is a soft, photosynthetic sea fan that does best with moderate to strong light and strong, turbulent flow. It gains most energy from symbiotic algae, but occasional fine plankton feedings can support growth and color. Mount it upright in high flow to limit algae buildup, and keep space from aggressive stinging corals.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate
Lighting Moderate–High
Flow Strong Indirect
Placement Mid–High
Temperament Peaceful (3–4 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 75–79°F
pH 8.1–8.4
Salinity 1.025–1.026
Calcium 380–420 ppm
AlkAlkalinity 8–9 dKH
Magnesium 1250–1350 ppm
Feeding photosynthetic, microplankton, phytoplankton, rotifers, copepod nauplii, oyster eggs, fine powdered coral foods

Care & Placement

Gorgonian Coral (Gorgonia sp.) thrives in clean, stable water with strong, steady flow that keeps branches free of film and detritus. Provide moderate to high light (PAR ~100–250) for photosynthetic varieties; acclimate by starting lower or using screen and increasing over 1–2 weeks. If you have a non‑photosynthetic type (often deeper colors with larger polyps), place in lower light and feed more often. Target feed 2–4 times weekly with fine planktonic foods (phyto, rotifers, reef roids) and occasional broadcast feeding to support polyp coverage and growth. Maintain: temperature 24–26°C/75–79°F, salinity 1.025–1.026 (35 ppt), pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1250–1350 ppm, nitrate 2–10 ppm, phosphate 0.02–0.08 ppm. Test weekly, use a refractometer for salinity, and avoid rapid swings—gorgonians are sensitive to instability and algae overgrowth.Place upright in mid to high areas with strong cross‑flow; avoid blasting one side directly. Secure the base with epoxy or a snug hole in live rock. Space at least 7–10 cm from neighbors; they are peaceful but easily damaged by sweeper tentacles. Keep away from aggressive LPS and leather corals that release chemicals. Avoid nippy fish (some angels, butterflies) and watch for algae, cyanobacteria, or gorgonian‑eating nudibranchs. Drip acclimate 30–45 minutes; a brief, gentle iodine dip can help, but rinse well. Common issues: bleaching from excess light or instability, base recession from low flow or trapped detritus. Increase flow, improve nutrient balance, trim dead tips, and maintain consistent maintenance to recover.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Aquacultured Gorgonian Coral

  • How can I tell if my Gorgonia sp. is the photosynthetic “sea fan” type or a non-photosynthetic lookalike?
    Photosynthetic Gorgonia sp. (often purple/tan fans) show brown/tan polyps and do well under moderate–strong light with vigorous, laminar flow. Many non-photosynthetic gorgonians have stark white polyps and brighter tissue colors, extend more at night, and decline without heavy, frequent feeding. If polyps stay pale/white despite good light and the coral thins quickly, reassess ID and feeding.
  • My sea fan’s base is receding while the tips look fine. What’s the fix?
    Base necrosis often stems from stagnant, shaded zones trapping detritus. Raise the mounting point off the substrate, open space around the holdfast, and direct a broad, steady flow across the base. If tissue loss exposes the axis, cut back to healthy flesh and remount. Gorgonians rarely grow tissue back over dead skeleton; encourage new branch growth instead.
  • Algae is colonizing damaged spots on the fan. How do I stop it without harming the coral?
    Increase turbulent flow, lower nutrients, and manually brush affected areas gently with a soft toothbrush during a water change. Follow with an iodine-based dip to reduce bacterial opportunists. Prevent future fouling by avoiding direct contact with sand, keeping the fan vertical, and maintaining alternating flow patterns to keep the surface clean.
  • What’s the best way to frag Gorgonia sp. for high survival?
    Use clean bone cutters or sharp scissors to snip at branch junctions. Pat cut ends dry, then glue with thick cyanoacrylate to a plug; a loose mesh sleeve or rubber band can hold it steady for 1–2 weeks. Provide strong, cross-flow and stable light. Don’t bury the base; keep tissue off epoxy to avoid smothering.