TSA Emerald Branching Turbinaria Heronensis Coral

TSA Emerald Branching Turbinaria Heronensis Coral

Sale price  $41.99 Regular price $65.99
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TSA Emerald Branching Turbinaria Heronensis Coral

TSA Emerald Branching Turbinaria Heronensis Coral

Sale price  $41.99 Regular price $65.99
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Grow your TSA Emerald Branching with:

Quick Specs

Care Level
Shop live corals by care level: Moderate
Flow
Shop live corals by flow: Moderate–High
Lighting
Shop live corals by lighting: Moderate–High
Placement
Shop live corals by placement: Mid–High
Growth Rate
Shop live corals by growth rate: Moderate
Temperament
Semi-aggressive(2–3 inches spacing)
Feeding
Photosyntheticmicroplankton, phytoplankton, zooplankton, rotifers, cyclops, oyster eggs, marine snow, powdered coral foods
Description
Photo is of mother colony. Frags are typically ¾" – 1" in size.

Aquacultured Turbinaria Coral

Turbinaria coral is a hardy stony coral in the family Dendrophylliidae, valued for its sculptural growth and forgiving nature. The genus includes the familiar yellow scroll coral (Turbinaria reniformis), along with species such as Turbinaria mesenterina and Turbinaria heronensis. Common names like scroll coral, cup coral, and pagoda coral describe the plating, cupped, and whorled shapes many colonies grow into, while some Turbinaria form more upright or branching growth. Small polyps extend from raised corallites across the surface, giving the colony a soft texture.

Turbinaria are often grouped with LPS corals in the hobby and are a good fit for reefers who want a low-fuss stony coral that grows into a striking centerpiece. Our Turbinaria are aquacultured in Florida, so each frag arrives already adapted to captive reef conditions.

Turbinaria Care at a Glance

Parameter Recommended Range
Care level Easy to moderate
Lighting Moderate; 14–20K spectrum
Water flow Moderate to high
Temperament Peaceful; no sweeper tentacles
Temperature 75–80°F
Salinity 1.025–1.026
pH 8.1–8.4
Calcium 420–440 ppm
Alkalinity 8–9.5 dKH
Magnesium 1300–1450 ppm
Nitrate <10 ppm
Phosphate <0.10 ppm
Origin Indo-Pacific; aquacultured by Top Shelf Aquatics in Florida

Water Chemistry for Turbinaria

Turbinaria build a solid stony skeleton, so calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium fuel their growth. They tolerate a wider range of conditions than many stony corals, but steady parameters still give the best color and growth. Test regularly and correct in small steps.

Lighting

T5 fluorescents, metal halides, and LEDs can all grow Turbinaria when they provide proper light intensity. We recommend a 14–20K color spectrum for the best coloration. Turbinaria adapt to a range of lighting, and many adjust their growth form to it, spreading into flatter plates in dimmer spots. Increase intensity gradually to avoid bleaching.

Water Flow

Moderate to high flow is important for Turbinaria. Plating and cupped surfaces can collect detritus and mucus, and steady movement keeps that material from settling on the tissue. Avoid dead spots where debris can build up, especially inside cupped growth.

Placement

Mount your new coral using IC gel glue, putty, or a combination of both. Place it on a rock or ledge that receives direct lighting and ample flow. As plating colonies grow outward, they can shade corals below them, so leave room and plan for the colony's future size.

What We Feed Our Turbinaria

Turbinaria rely on photosynthesis, and their polyps also capture fine particles from the water. We recommend feeding hard corals a combination of zooplankton, phytoplankton, amino acids, and other organic proteins. A daily broadcast feeding while your return and circulation pumps are stopped gives corals the chance to capture the nutrients they need. Our recommended feeds:

Coloration and Settling In

Turbinaria color depends on lighting, nutrition, and water stability. A new frag may keep its polyps retracted for a few days after shipping. Once it settles, polyp extension is a good sign that light and flow suit it.

Common Turbinaria Challenges

  • Detritus buildup: debris trapped on plates or in cups can irritate tissue and cause recession; keep flow steady
  • Shading: large plates can block light to corals underneath
  • Bleaching: caused by sudden increases in light or temperature
  • Stings from neighbors: keep Turbinaria clear of corals with sweeper tentacles

How We Grow Our Turbinaria

Our Turbinaria frags are aquacultured in Florida. All corals grown in our aquaculture facility are lit by EcoTech Marine Radion XR30s and powered by a mix of EcoTech Marine Vortech pumps and Sicce wavemakers.

How to Acclimate a Turbinaria Frag

  1. Temperature: float the sealed bag in your aquarium to equalize temperature.
  2. Water: slowly add your tank water to the bag so the coral can adjust to your parameters.
  3. Mounting: attach the frag with IC gel glue, putty, or both.
  4. Lighting: start in a moderate spot and adjust gradually over a few weeks.
FAQs Common questions about TSA Emerald Branching Turbinaria Heronensis Coral

How can I keep Turbinaria heronensis from self-shading and losing tissue at the base?

This species forms dense thickets that shade inner branches. Prune outer tips periodically to open the canopy, and aim cross-flow into the interior to flush detritus. Rotate or slightly reposition the colony every few months to expose shaded areas. Maintain PAR around 150–250, not just on the top, and avoid neighboring corals that cast persistent shadows.

Why are my Branching Turbinaria polyps retracted during the day despite stable parameters?

Check for laminar “blasting” flow, vermetid snail webs, or residual toxins from nearby soft corals. Switch to alternating, turbulent flow, clip vermetids at the base, and run fresh carbon or poly-filter. Also inspect for sediment trapped in the branch cluster; a brief turkey baster rinse at lights-on can restore extension within days.

My yellow/green colony browned out after a light change. Can color return?

Yes, but do it slowly. Reset PAR to ~150–180 for two weeks, then increase 10–15% per week while maintaining strong, random flow and stable nutrients (NO3 5–15 ppm, PO4 0.03–0.08 ppm). Target-feed fine particulate foods at dusk 1–2x weekly. Trim tight clusters to reduce self-shading; improved internal light often brings pigments back within 4–8 weeks.

Are there pests or subtle issues specific to T. heronensis I should watch for?

While not a common target for nudi/flatworms, it’s prone to vermetids, filamentous algae on exposed skeleton, and sponge overgrowth in shaded interiors. Inspect branch junctions where detritus settles. Address early by improving interior flow, manual removal, and keeping phosphate in range to limit algal footholds. Periodic canopy thinning prevents these microhabitats from forming.
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SKU: CTOxTSAEmeraldBrTurb

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