Longnose Hawkfish

Longnose Hawkfish are opportunistic predators and will usually eat small ornamental shrimp once they’re established and comfortable. Tiny shrimp such as Sexy Shrimp (Thor amboinensis), Peppermint Shrimp, and small juvenile cleaner shrimp are at high risk. Large, well-established Cleaner Shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis), Blood Shrimp (Lysmata debelius), and big adult Coral Banded Shrimp (Stenopus hispidus) may coexist longer, but there is never a guarantee; a hungry or bold hawkfish can still attack them, especially at night. If you want to try pairing them, introduce the shrimp first, let them grow and settle in, then add a smaller hawkfish last, and keep them well fed with frequent small meaty meals. Still, be prepared to lose shrimp at some point.

Longnose Hawkfish thrive in a rockwork layout with multiple high perches and branching structures. Aim for a good amount of porous live rock that reaches at least the upper third of the tank, with ledges, overhangs, and branching elements like real or artificial gorgonians or staghorn-style rock/frag racks. They like to sit near strong flow areas where food passes by, so position some perches near your powerhead current paths. At least 4–6 distinct perching spots at different heights works well, including one near the surface and one near the front glass so you can observe them. Tall, open rock “towers” combined with a couple of horizontal shelves lets them move and watch the tank without feeling exposed.

Longnose Hawkfish are strong, deliberate jumpers, especially when startled, chased, or during lights-on/off transitions. A loose canopy or partial glass cover is usually not enough. Use a tight-fitting lid that covers 100% of the tank footprint, including overflows and cutouts for plumbing and cables. Mesh tops should use 1/4" (6 mm) or smaller clear netting; avoid larger openings that they can shoot through at an angle. Check that feeding ports have sliding or hinged covers that stay closed when not in use, and block any small gaps around light brackets with acrylic strips or weatherstripping. Since hawkfish often sit high in the rockwork close to the surface, they are more likely than many fish to clear short rims when startled.

Start by offering a variety of meaty frozen foods it already accepts, such as mysis shrimp, finely chopped krill, and small pieces of shrimp or clam. Once it’s eating aggressively, gradually mix in a small amount of high-quality marine pellets or flakes soaked together with the thawed frozen food in the same cup so the scents mingle. Feed with a turkey baster or pipette directly near its perch, first giving mostly frozen with only a couple of pellets. Over a week or two, slowly increase the proportion of pellets/flakes while decreasing frozen. Hawkfish often learn by association and will snap at anything drifting with the “good smell.” You can also use moving foods like floating sticks or sinking pellets dropped into the current so they look like prey. Feed small amounts 2–3 times daily so it gets multiple chances to experiment, but monitor body condition; if it starts to lose weight, temporarily increase frozen again so it maintains weight during training.

A single Longnose Hawkfish is best kept in at least a 30-gallon tank, but tank shape matters. They don’t need a lot of horizontal swimming room like tangs, but they use vertical space and elevated perches constantly. A tank that is at least 18" (45 cm) tall with rockwork reaching upwards suits them better than a very shallow, shallow “lagoon” style footprint of the same volume. In smaller systems (around 30 gallons), choose a layout that provides multiple vertical levels and clear lines of sight from perch to perch, with moderate to strong flow. For community setups with other semi-aggressive or similarly sized fish, 40–55 gallons or larger gives them more territory choices and reduces squabbling. Long, low frag tanks can work if you build tall rock pillars or gorgonian “trees,” but a standard rectangular tank with decent height is usually more comfortable for this species.