TSA Fairy Dust Favia Coral

TSA Fairy Dust Favia Coral

Overview

Fairy Dust Favia Coral shows tight polygonal corallites with small, contrasting mouths and a speckled surface. Favites pentagona is a stony, encrusting to domed brain coral; it does well under moderate light and moderate, indirect water flow. It is photosynthetic via symbiotic algae but accepts small meaty foods at night, which can support faster growth and stronger color. Place with space from neighbors, as sweeper tentacles can sting nearby corals.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate
Lighting Low–Moderate
Flow Moderate, indirect
Placement Low–Mid
Temperament Semi-aggressive (4–6 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F
pH 8.1–8.4
Salinity 1.025–1.026
Calcium 400–450 ppm
AlkAlkalinity 8–9.5 dKH
Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm
Feeding photosynthetic, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped seafood (shrimp, clam), zooplankton, microplankton, marine snow, powdered coral foods

Care & Placement

Fairy Dust Favia Coral (Favites pentagona) thrives with stable, moderate conditions and patient acclimation. Place it low to mid in the tank on rockwork where it gets 80–150 PAR of indirect light; start on the lower end and increase over 2–3 weeks to prevent bleaching. Provide moderate, random flow that keeps detritus from settling between polyps without blasting tissue. Target feed small meaty foods (mysis, chopped krill, reef roids) 1–2 times weekly at dusk or when feeder tentacles are out to support growth and color. Maintain temperature 75–79°F (24–26°C), salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1250–1350 ppm, nitrate 2–15 ppm, and phosphate 0.03–0.08 ppm. Use reliable test kits and avoid rapid swings, especially in alkalinity and light.This species is semi‑aggressive; give 3–6 inches of space due to 1–3 inch sweeper tentacles and avoid close neighbors like other LPS and encrusting corals. Secure the frag with glue, keep flesh off sharp edges, and avoid burying in sand. Drip acclimate 30–45 minutes, dip before introduction, and quarantine if possible. Common issues: bleaching from too much light (lower PAR, shade temporarily), tissue recession from instability, pests, or very low nutrients (restore stability, feed, inspect and treat), and detritus buildup (use a turkey baster during maintenance). Watch for brown jelly; frag away affected areas and increase flow if detected. Stability and gentle, regular care yield steady growth and vibrant coloration.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the TSA Fairy Dust Favia Coral

  • Why is my Fairy Dust Favia’s color fading under seemingly good light?
    Favites pentagona prefers moderate PAR (80–150) with a blue-heavy spectrum; too much white or PAR >180 often washes out fluorescence. Keep nutrients non-zero (nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1), and feed small meaty foods at night to fuel pigments. Stability matters—alk swings flatten color fast. Check for light shock if recently moved; acclimate over 1–2 weeks.
  • How aggressive is Fairy Dust Favia, and how much space should I give it?
    At night it extends short, sticky sweepers—typically 1–2 inches, sometimes more after heavy feeding. Provide 2–3 inches of buffer from fleshy LPS, a bit less from hardy encrusters. Indirect, moderate flow reduces mucus buildup and sting strength. Avoid placing next to thin-tissued chalices or acans; this coral usually wins slow standoffs.
  • Will Favites pentagona grow as an encruster or a dome, and how can I guide its shape?
    It typically encrusts first, then forms a low dome of tightly packed, shared-wall corallites. To keep it plating low, mount on a wide, flat tile and maintain moderate flow; for a taller dome, give a smaller pedestal. Growth improves with alk 8–9 dKH, Ca ~420, Mg ~1300, and steady nutrients. Avoid frequent fragging that interrupts skeletal build-up.
  • I see tissue receding along the valleys—what causes this and how do I stop it?
    Common triggers are stagnant debris, vermetid snail irritation, alk swings, or early brown jelly. Increase indirect flow, baste detritus, and remove vermetids. Verify alk stability and non-zero nutrients. If jelly appears, isolate, perform an iodine or low-dose peroxide dip, and trim dead tissue. Afterward, reduce light slightly and feed lightly at night to aid recovery.