Blueberry Crush Favia Coral

Blueberry Crush Favia Coral

Overview

Blueberry Crush Favia Coral displays chunky, polygonal corallites with contrasting colored mouths and ridges. Favia favus is a stony, massive brain coral; keep it under moderate light with low to moderate, indirect flow. It is photosynthetic with symbiotic algae but benefits from occasional small meaty foods to support growth and maintain color. Provide ample space, as long nighttime sweeper tentacles can sting nearby corals.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate
Lighting Low–Moderate
Flow Moderate indirect
Placement Low–Mid
Temperament Semi-aggressive (3–6 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F
pH 8.1–8.4
Salinity 1.025–1.026
Calcium 400–450 ppm
AlkAlkalinity 8–10 dKH
Magnesium 1250–1350 ppm
Feeding photosynthetic, zooplankton, mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, finely chopped marine meat, copepods, microplankton, coral-specific powdered foods

Care & Placement

Blueberry Crush Favia Coral (Favia favus) thrives with stable, moderate conditions. Provide moderate light (PAR ~80–150); start low and gradually increase over 2–3 weeks to avoid bleaching. Use moderate, indirect flow that keeps the surface free of debris without blasting tissue; aim for gentle, variable currents to prevent detritus buildup and recession. Target feed 2–3 times weekly after lights down when feeding tentacles extend; offer small meaty foods (mysis, finely chopped seafood) or coral foods. Keep temperature 76–80°F, pH 8.1–8.4, salinity 1.025–1.026, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1280–1350 ppm, nitrate 2–10 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.08 ppm. Test weekly and prioritize stability, especially alkalinity; avoid sudden swings.Place low to mid in the tank on a stable rock ledge or sandbed with good clearance. Allow 3–6 inches of space from neighbors; this coral is semi‑aggressive and can extend long sweepers at night. Compatible with most peaceful LPS and soft corals at proper spacing; avoid nearby fast‑growing encrusters and stinging aggressors. Acclimate with a 30–45 minute drip and a coral dip per manufacturer directions. Use shading or reduced intensity and ramp up light gradually. If tissue recedes, check for pests, excessive flow, or low nutrients; if pale, reduce light and feed more. Keep nutrients non‑zero to prevent starvation, maintain gentle flow to deter bacterial issues, and turn off pumps during target feeding for better capture.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Blueberry Crush Favia Coral

  • How does Blueberry Crush Favia Coral typically grow, and can I shape its colony?
    Favia favus forms slow-growing, dome-shaped mounds with distinct, separate corallite walls. You can guide growth by giving it a stable plug or small rock island with space around the rim. It encrusts first, then builds height. Rotate slightly every few weeks for even light, and avoid shading the rim, where new tissue expands over clean, stable surfaces.
  • My Blueberry Crush is losing blue intensity—what lighting tweaks help color without stressing it?
    This morph holds color best under moderate PAR (80–150) with strong blue/violet spectrum (420–470 nm) and a balanced white channel. If it pales, reduce PAR 10–20% and extend blue-heavy photoperiod rather than blasting intensity. Maintain low but detectable nutrients (nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm). Color rebounds over weeks, not days.
  • How aggressive is this coral at night, and what spacing prevents stings?
    At night, it extends sweeper tentacles 2–4 inches and can deploy mesenterial filaments on contact. Give at least 4–6 inches of clearance from fleshy LPS and delicate SPS, and place it up-current so its sweepers drift away from prized neighbors. If warfare starts, redirect flow and move the target coral; cutting the Favia risks infection and slower recovery.
  • My colony shows edge recession while the center looks fine—what should I check?
    Edge recession often starts from sediment buildup, algae creep, or vermetid irritation at the rim. Increase cross-flow to keep the perimeter clean, raise the coral slightly off the sand, and manually remove nuisance algae. Inspect for vermetid tubes and carefully snap them at the base. Stabilize alkalinity and pH; a short iodine dip can help halt bacterial spread.