Atomic Orange Mushroom Coral

Atomic Orange Mushroom Coral

Overview

Atomic Orange Mushroom Coral shows a bright orange, smooth disc with faint radial texture and a central mouth. Known scientifically as Discosoma sp., it is a soft, mushroom-type polyp that prefers low to moderate light and gentle to moderate water flow. It relies on symbiotic algae for energy but will take small meaty foods, which can speed growth and deepen color. Place on isolated rock with space around it, as it can spread and may sting nearby corals.

Quick Facts

Care Easy
Lighting Low–Moderate
Flow Low–Moderate
Placement Low–Mid
Temperament Peaceful to semi-aggressive (2–3 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F
pH 8.1–8.4
Salinity 1.025–1.026
Calcium 380–420 ppm
AlkAlkalinity 8–10 dKH
Magnesium 1250–1350 ppm
Feeding photosynthetic, microplankton, phytoplankton, rotifers, finely chopped mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, powdered coral foods, marine snow

Care & Placement

Atomic Orange Mushroom Coral (Discosoma sp.) thrives in stable, nutrient-moderate systems with low to moderate light (PAR ~30–100) and gentle, indirect flow. Start in lower light and slowly increase over 2–3 weeks to prevent bleaching; signs of too much light include gaping or shrinking caps. Provide gentle flow to reduce detritus buildup without lifting the tissue. Target feed once weekly with fine meaty foods (mysis, brine, reef roids) or let it capture drift; it’s largely photosynthetic and undemanding. Keep temperature 76–80°F (24–27°C), pH 8.1–8.4, salinity 1.024–1.026, calcium 380–450 ppm, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, and magnesium 1250–1350 ppm. Prioritize stability—rapid swings cause recession or detachment. Test weekly and adjust slowly.Place low to mid in the tank on rock rubble or an isolated island; mushrooms can spread and shade neighbors. Allow 3–4 inches of space, as they can irritate nearby corals by contact and overgrowth, though their sting is mild. Use a drip acclimation (30–45 minutes), then light acclimate with dimmed settings or screen. If a specimen detaches, secure it in a low-flow cup with rubble until it reattaches. Troubleshooting: bleaching—reduce light and feed lightly; shrinking—check salinity and alkalinity; melting tissue—improve flow and verify ammonia/nitrite are zero. Avoid blasting flow, sudden parameter changes, and direct placement near aggressive LPS with long sweepers. Keep sand clean to limit sediment settling on the disc.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Atomic Orange Mushroom Coral

  • Why does my Atomic Orange Mushroom Coral inflate and deflate dramatically throughout the day?
    Discosoma regularly changes size to regulate fluids and light exposure. Sudden, prolonged shrinking usually points to stress: recent light increases, low salinity stability, or direct flow. Check for 1–2% daily salinity swing, reduce white-heavy lighting, and provide gentle, indirect flow. If the mouth gapes for days or tissue wrinkles, lower light by 20–30% and improve stability before assuming disease.
  • My bright orange turned dull or brown—what caused the color shift?
    Excess intensity and white-heavy spectrum often wash pigments, while extreme nutrient scarcity can pale them. Aim for moderate PAR (50–120), blue-leaning spectrum, and balanced nutrients (nitrate ~5–15 ppm, phosphate ~0.05–0.15 ppm). Avoid aggressive GFO or carbon dosing swings. Small, regular water changes and steady trace replenishment help pigment maintenance; avoid chasing iodine spikes.
  • How do I keep this coral from taking over the rockwork?
    Discosoma spreads via pedal laceration. Start it on an isolated “island” rock; it limits creep. For control, gently peel the edge with a scalpel and lift slowly—don’t rip the foot. Place fragments in a low-flow rubble cup with mesh to heal. Run carbon and maintain spacing; mushrooms can shade and eventually overgrow slower LPS and zoas.
  • It detached and is drifting—how can I reattach it safely?
    Slime prevents glue from holding. Use a specimen cup or breeder box with rubble, cover with mesh or bridal veil, and keep low flow and moderate light. After 7–14 days the foot anchors. Detachment usually follows irritation: too much light, direct flow, or stings from neighbors. Correct the cause before release, or it may repeat the escape.