On the reef, this species works the water column as a zooplankton feeder, picking copepods and other small invertebrates from the current. That grazing pattern translates directly into captive feeding: offer small meaty items rather than large single portions. Vitamin-enriched mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, live or frozen copepods, finely chopped marine seafood, and mixed frozen preparations all suit its mouth size and appetite.
Supplement the frozen rotation with small marine pellets or flakes formulated for carnivores so the diet stays varied. Because the fish swims almost continuously and burns energy accordingly, feed small portions two to three times daily, or several times per day where a feeder or refugium population can help. Reviewed information on this species does not indicate any particular difficulty in getting new arrivals to accept prepared foods, though a calm aquarium without pushy competitors makes the transition smoother.
A single specimen settles well, and a harem of one male with several females is the more rewarding arrangement in a spacious system. Introducing the females first, or simultaneously with the male, reduces friction as the group establishes itself. Within the reef, this wrasse is considered safe with corals and does not bother the common ornamental invertebrates most reef keepers maintain, but very small shrimp and tiny crustaceans may be treated as prey by a fish that hunts zooplankton for a living.
FAQ
Frequently Asked Questions
About the Blue Throat Fairy Wrasse
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What aquarium size and layout should I prepare?
Plan on a 75-gallon aquarium or larger for adults, arranged with open swimming lanes and abundant rockwork for shelter. Fit a secure lid, since this wrasse is prone to jumping. -
Can it live in a reef aquarium with ornamental invertebrates?
Yes, it is reef safe and normally leaves corals and common invertebrates untouched. Very small shrimp and tiny crustaceans, however, may be eaten by this zooplankton feeder. -
Can I keep more than one Blue Throat Fairy Wrasse?
One male with several females works well in a sufficiently spacious aquarium, ideally with the females introduced first or at the same time. Avoid pairing competing mature males, as they may display aggression toward one another.