TSA Frozone Pectinia Coral

TSA Frozone Pectinia Coral

Pectinia LPS

Overview

Frozone Pectinia Coral shows ruffled, plating lobes with saw-toothed edges and deep valleys. Pectinia sp. is a large-polyp stony coral with a leafy, plating structure; it prefers moderate to low light and gentle to moderate, indirect flow. It is photosynthetic via symbiotic algae but benefits from occasional small meaty feedings, which can improve growth and color. Give this coral ample space due to long sweeper tentacles and place it where it will not shade or sting neighbors.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate
Lighting Low–Moderate
Flow Moderate
Placement Low–Mid
Temperament Aggressive (6–8 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F
pH 8.1–8.4
Salinity 1.025–1.026
Calcium 400–450 ppm
AlkAlkalinity 8–10 dKH
Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm
Feeding photosynthetic, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped seafood (clam, shrimp), rotifers, zooplankton, coral-specific micro foods (e.g., Reef Roids), marine snow, phytoplankton (sparingly)

Care & Placement

Frozone Pectinia Coral (Pectinia sp.) prefers stable, moderate conditions with careful spacing. Place it low to mid in the tank under moderate light (PAR 100–200), acclimating slowly over 1–2 weeks using a screen or reduced photoperiod to avoid bleaching. Provide moderate, indirect flow to keep slime and detritus off fleshy ridges; avoid direct blasts that can tear tissue. Target-feed at night 1–2 times weekly with small meaty foods (mysis, finely chopped seafood) or quality coral foods when feeder tentacles are out. Maintain temperature 76–79°F, salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1250–1350 ppm, nitrate 2–10 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.08 ppm. Test weekly, keep alkalinity changes under 0.5 dKH per day, and use an auto top-off for salinity stability. Pectinia is semi-aggressive; give 6–10 inches of space for nighttime sweepers and avoid neighbors with long stingers or fast encrusters.Mount on a stable ledge or island to limit shadows and prevent detritus traps. Dip and inspect new frags for pests, and avoid exposing inflated tissue to air during moves. If tissue recession appears, check for alk swings, pests at the skeleton edge, and insufficient flow; frag away dying areas if needed. Pale color suggests too much light or too little nutrients—lower PAR slightly and raise nitrate/phosphate to target range. Brown, slimy tissue can indicate bacterial issues; improve flow, siphon waste, and consider an iodine-based dip. Regular, small feedings and stable parameters support steady growth and color.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the TSA Frozone Pectinia Coral

  • Why does my Frozone Pectinia develop tissue loss in the valleys while the ridges look fine?
    Pectinia’s plate-and-valley skeleton can trap detritus and shade tissue. Low, laminar flow allows debris and bacteria to settle, causing “valley necrosis.” Increase random, cross-flow to keep valleys clean, gently turkey-baste detritus weekly, and tilt the colony slightly to reduce self-shading. Maintain stable alkalinity and moderate nutrients; sudden drops often trigger slow recession in shaded areas.
  • What lighting brings out the icy blues without bleaching this coral?
    Pectinia usually colors best under moderate PAR (80–150) with strong blue/UV channels. Start low and ramp up over 2–3 weeks; too much white or rapid intensity changes cause paling and edge burn. If blues fade, verify nutrients (nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.08 ppm) and consider extending the blue spectrum photoperiod rather than increasing overall intensity.
  • How aggressive are Frozone Pectinia sweepers and how should I place it?
    Night sweeper tentacles can exceed 6 inches, stinging fleshy LPS and many SPS. Give a wide buffer on all sides, especially down-current. Avoid facing sweepers toward prized neighbors. Running carbon and maintaining good export helps with allelopathic stress. If you see extended sweeper deployment daily, the coral may be defending territory—reduce nearby flow stress or relocate competitors.
  • Why does feeding at night work better for this coral than daytime target feeding?
    Pectinia extends feeding tentacles after lights out, matching its natural crepuscular habits. Train it by delivering small mysis or reef roids 30–60 minutes into the night cycle when feeders are out. Briefly pause pumps, then restore low flow to distribute food without it settling in valleys. Consistent nocturnal feedings boost growth and help recover from minor recession.