Why does my Crocodile Smile Chalice Coral lose its sharp “smile” ridges and look smoother over time?

Excess PAR and strong, direct flow can flatten surface corrugations and reduce edge scalloping. Move it to lower, indirect light (100–150 PAR) and diffuse flow; avoid detritus settling by tilting the frag slightly. Stable alkalinity and moderate feeding at night encourage thicker tissue and more defined ridges. Expect gradual recovery over several weeks.

My Echinophyllia sp. shows color banding under blues but washes out under whites—normal or stress?

It’s normal for pigments to pop under blue-heavy spectrum. If colors wash out under whiter light, confirm PAR isn’t creeping high and check nutrients aren’t bottomed out (nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm). Trace balance matters; low iron/manganese can mute greens. Adjust spectrum slowly and track color over 2–3 weeks.

Nighttime sweepers are stinging nearby corals—how far can this chalice reach?

Expect 2–3 inches reach on mature pieces, sometimes more during nutrient spikes. Give wide spacing and avoid positioning downflow from fleshy LPS or zoanthids. If space is tight, create a sand moat or use rock barriers. Reducing abrupt pH/alk swings and feeding smaller portions can temper aggressive polyp extension.

The coral’s rim is curling upward and casting shade on its own center—should I intervene?

Upward curling is common as plates thicken. Rotate the piece a quarter turn every few weeks or mount it on a slight incline to keep light on inner tissue. Increase diffuse side lighting rather than PAR. Gently turkey-baste detritus from recessed areas to prevent bacterial hotspots and slow tissue loss.

TSA Crocodile Smile Chalice Coral

Chalice LPS

Overview

Crocodile Smile Chalice Coral shows a flattened, undulating plate with raised ridges and brightly colored eyes. Classed as Echinophyllia sp. coral, it is a stony, plating large-polyp species that prefers moderate light and low to moderate, indirect flow. It relies on symbiotic algae for most nutrition but benefits from occasional small meaty foods or coral foods, which can support faster growth and maintain coloration. Place on a stable rock ledge with space around it, as sweeper tentacles can sting nearby corals.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate

Lighting Low–Moderate

Flow Moderate, indirect

Placement Low–Mid

Temperament Semi-aggressive (extends long night sweepers; provide 4–6 inches of space)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–9.5 dKH

Magnesium 1280–1400 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, rotifers, copepods, zooplankton, microplankton, finely chopped shrimp or clam, coral-specific powdered foods (e.g., Reef-Roids), marine snow

Care & Placement

Crocodile Smile Chalice Coral (Echinophyllia sp.) prefers stable, clean water and a calm environment. Place it low to mid in the tank, starting in partial shade and slowly increasing light over 2–3 weeks. Aim for 75–150 PAR; too much light can bleach, while too little can dull color. Provide low to moderate, indirect flow that keeps the surface free of detritus without lifting tissue from the skeleton. Feed 2–3 times per week after lights out with small meaty foods (mysis, chopped shrimp) or fine coral foods; turn off pumps for 10–15 minutes to improve capture. Maintain temperature 24–26°C (75–79°F), salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.0–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1280–1400 ppm, nitrate 2–10 ppm, and phosphate 0.02–0.08 ppm. Test weekly, keep swings minimal, and use an auto top-off to hold salinity steady.This coral is semi-aggressive and can extend sweepers at night; leave 3–6+ inches from neighbors, especially other LPS and encrusting corals. Mount on a stable rock ledge so the rim doesn’t trap debris; gently baste the surface if needed. Acclimate by dipping, inspecting for pests, and handling by the plug or rock, not by tissue. Signs of trouble include paling (too much light), tissue recession from edges (excess flow or unstable alkalinity), or brown jelly (bacterial; frag away affected areas and improve flow). If stressed, reduce light, adjust flow, and verify alkalinity and salinity before making other changes.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the TSA Crocodile Smile Chalice Coral

Why does my Crocodile Smile Chalice Coral lose its sharp “smile” ridges and look smoother over time?

Excess PAR and strong, direct flow can flatten surface corrugations and reduce edge scalloping. Move it to lower, indirect light (100–150 PAR) and diffuse flow; avoid detritus settling by tilting the frag slightly. Stable alkalinity and moderate feeding at night encourage thicker tissue and more defined ridges. Expect gradual recovery over several weeks.
My Echinophyllia sp. shows color banding under blues but washes out under whites—normal or stress?

It’s normal for pigments to pop under blue-heavy spectrum. If colors wash out under whiter light, confirm PAR isn’t creeping high and check nutrients aren’t bottomed out (nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm). Trace balance matters; low iron/manganese can mute greens. Adjust spectrum slowly and track color over 2–3 weeks.
Nighttime sweepers are stinging nearby corals—how far can this chalice reach?

Expect 2–3 inches reach on mature pieces, sometimes more during nutrient spikes. Give wide spacing and avoid positioning downflow from fleshy LPS or zoanthids. If space is tight, create a sand moat or use rock barriers. Reducing abrupt pH/alk swings and feeding smaller portions can temper aggressive polyp extension.
The coral’s rim is curling upward and casting shade on its own center—should I intervene?

Upward curling is common as plates thicken. Rotate the piece a quarter turn every few weeks or mount it on a slight incline to keep light on inner tissue. Increase diffuse side lighting rather than PAR. Gently turkey-baste detritus from recessed areas to prevent bacterial hotspots and slow tissue loss.