TSA Cotton Candy Chalice Coral
Overview
Cotton Candy Chalice Coral features a flattened, plating surface with raised “eyes” (corallites) and a contrasting rim. Echinophyllia sp. is a large-polyp stony coral that grows encrusting to plating and prefers low to moderate light with gentle, indirect flow. It is photosynthetic with symbiotic algae but benefits from occasional target feeding of small meaty foods to support growth and color. Place on a stable ledge with space from other corals, as it can extend stinging sweeper tentacles at night.
Quick Facts
Care
Moderate
Lighting
Low–Moderate
Flow
Moderate, indirect
Placement
Low–Mid
Temperament
Aggressive (4–6 inches spacing)
Recommended Parameters
Temp
76–80°F
pH
8.1–8.4
Salinity
1.025–1.026
Calcium
400–450 ppm
AlkAlkalinity
8–9.5 dKH
Magnesium
1300–1400 ppm
Feeding
photosynthetic (primary), mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, rotifers, cyclops, zooplankton, coral-specific powdered foods (e.g., Reef-Roids), finely minced marine seafood
Care & Placement
FAQ
Frequently Asked Questions
About the TSA Cotton Candy Chalice Coral
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How can I keep the Cotton Candy coloration from fading or turning brown/green?
Keep PAR in the 80–150 range with strong blue spectrum; avoid abrupt light increases. Maintain moderate nutrients (nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm) to prevent paling. Stable alkalinity (8–9 dKH), calcium, and magnesium are key. Trace balance matters: potassium supports pinks/reds, iron/manganese help greens—dose only after testing. Improve color with nighttime feeding to support pigments without blasting light. -
My chalice is receding from the edges—what’s the likely cause and fix?
Edge recession often follows alkalinity swings, sudden salinity shifts, or vermetid snail irritation. Check and stabilize dKH, salinity, and temperature. Increase but don’t blast flow to keep edges clean. Inspect for vermetids and nip/epoxy their tubes. Do an iodine-based dip if bacterial film is present. Temporarily shade slightly and target feed fine meaty foods to support recovery. -
What placement and flow prevent detritus buildup and “shadow bleaching” on Echinophyllia sp.?
Mount on a slight incline or vertical face so the plate doesn’t form a debris bowl. Use crossflow that gently skims the surface, avoiding a direct jet that peels tissue. Keep it off sand; grains abrade the rim. Provide moderate, even light to avoid bright hot spots that bleach peaks while valleys starve—diffused light works well. -
How aggressive is this chalice at night, and how far should I space neighbors?
Echinophyllia can deploy mesenterial filaments and short sweepers after lights out, burning nearby flesh. Give 3–6 inches of space, more down-current. Avoid placing next to fleshy LPS or slow healers. If contact is unavoidable, run a slightly higher, more turbulent flow at night to reduce prolonged contact, and consider a small rock “moat” to block overgrowth.