Why is my Captain America Chalice fading from deep red to dull brown or losing the blue/green around the mouths?

Color shifts usually stem from too much PAR, an overly white spectrum, or ultra-low nutrients. Aim for 75–150 PAR with a blue-heavy spectrum and stable nutrients (nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1). Acclimate slowly to new lights. If faded, lower intensity 15–25%, increase blues, and stabilize alkalinity/calcium. Color often rebounds over 2–4 weeks.

What’s the ideal placement to prevent tissue abrasion and self-shadowing as it plates out?

Mount on a smooth tile or flat rock away from sand and high-traffic snail paths. Give 2–3 inches of clearance for sweeper/mesenterial reach. Moderate, indirect flow prevents detritus without lifting tissue. As rims thicken, rotate the frag/plug monthly to reduce underside shadowing and encourage even encrustment.

My chalice is receding from the rim and eyes—what’s the likely cause and fix?

Common triggers include alkalinity swings, vermetid snail irritation, direct laminar flow, and sudden light increases. Check for vermetid tubes near the flesh and break them off. Stabilize alkalinity (8–9 dKH), reduce flow impact, and dim or raise lights slightly. An iodine or broad-spectrum coral dip can help; if recession advances, frag a healthy margin as insurance.

How can I feed for growth without fueling nuisance algae?

Target-feed after lights out when feeding filaments extend. Turn pumps to feed mode and offer small portions of reef roids, finely minced mysis, or fish eggs once or twice weekly. Rinse meaty foods, avoid overshooting, and resume gentle flow after 10–15 minutes. Maintain export (skimming, refugium) to keep nutrients stable while supporting tissue gain.

TSA Captain America Chalice Coral

Chalice LPS

Overview

Captain America Chalice Coral shows a flattened, wavy plate with contrasting red and blue eyes. Echinophyllia sp. is a stony plating coral that prefers low to moderate light and gentle to moderate water flow. It hosts symbiotic algae for energy but benefits from occasional small meaty foods at night, which can support growth and maintain color. Place on the sandbed or isolated rock with space around it, as it can extend sweeper tentacles and sting nearby corals.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate

Lighting Low–Moderate

Flow Moderate, indirect

Placement Low–Mid

Temperament Aggressive (6–8 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 420–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–9 dKH

Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, copepods, rotifers, zooplankton, microplankton, finely chopped marine meats, coral-specific powdered foods (e.g., Reef Roids), marine snow

Care & Placement

Captain America Chalice Coral (Echinophyllia sp.) prefers stable, clean water and a gentle environment. Place it low to mid in the tank, on a stable rock ledge or the sand with a small riser to keep grit off the tissue. Aim for low to moderate light (75–150 PAR); start in shade and increase light slowly over 2–3 weeks to prevent bleaching. Provide low to moderate, indirect flow—enough to keep detritus from settling but not so strong that flesh lifts from the skeleton. Target-feed 2–3 times weekly after lights out with fine meaty foods (reef roids, mysis slurry) and amino acids; pause pumps during feeding. Maintain temperature 75–79°F (24–26°C), salinity 1.025–1.026 (35 ppt), pH 8.0–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1300–1400 ppm, nitrate 2–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.10 ppm. Test weekly with reliable kits; use a PAR meter if available.Give 4–6 inches of space from neighbors; this coral can extend short stingers at night and may be damaged by more aggressive species (euphyllias, galaxea). Acclimate with a dip and slow drip, then light-acclimate using screens or a shaded frag rack. Common issues include tissue recession from alkalinity swings, light shock, and vermetid/snail irritation—stabilize parameters, adjust light, and remove pests. Blow off debris with a turkey baster, keep nutrients non-zero, and avoid nipping fish (angels, butterflies). If color fades, reduce light and increase feeding frequency slightly while keeping nutrients stable.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the TSA Captain America Chalice Coral

Why is my Captain America Chalice fading from deep red to dull brown or losing the blue/green around the mouths?

Color shifts usually stem from too much PAR, an overly white spectrum, or ultra-low nutrients. Aim for 75–150 PAR with a blue-heavy spectrum and stable nutrients (nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1). Acclimate slowly to new lights. If faded, lower intensity 15–25%, increase blues, and stabilize alkalinity/calcium. Color often rebounds over 2–4 weeks.
What’s the ideal placement to prevent tissue abrasion and self-shadowing as it plates out?

Mount on a smooth tile or flat rock away from sand and high-traffic snail paths. Give 2–3 inches of clearance for sweeper/mesenterial reach. Moderate, indirect flow prevents detritus without lifting tissue. As rims thicken, rotate the frag/plug monthly to reduce underside shadowing and encourage even encrustment.
My chalice is receding from the rim and eyes—what’s the likely cause and fix?

Common triggers include alkalinity swings, vermetid snail irritation, direct laminar flow, and sudden light increases. Check for vermetid tubes near the flesh and break them off. Stabilize alkalinity (8–9 dKH), reduce flow impact, and dim or raise lights slightly. An iodine or broad-spectrum coral dip can help; if recession advances, frag a healthy margin as insurance.
How can I feed for growth without fueling nuisance algae?

Target-feed after lights out when feeding filaments extend. Turn pumps to feed mode and offer small portions of reef roids, finely minced mysis, or fish eggs once or twice weekly. Rinse meaty foods, avoid overshooting, and resume gentle flow after 10–15 minutes. Maintain export (skimming, refugium) to keep nutrients stable while supporting tissue gain.