Why does my Avatar Chalice lose pink/blue pop and turn dull under “good” lighting?

Echinophyllia often prefers lower PAR (60–120) with blue-heavy spectrum and mild nutrients. Too much white/red or very low nutrients can wash pigments; intense light can trigger photoinhibition and browning. Try shading or reducing intensity 20–30%, extend blues, and allow nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1. Expect color rebound over 2–6 weeks if alkalinity and trace stability are maintained.

The growth rim looks thick but the center stalls—normal for this coral?

Yes. Avatar Chalice typically plates outward, building a rim first while adding “eyes” (corallites) later. Edge growth can shadow the center, slowing vertical build. Provide oblique, indirect flow and angled light so the interior gets gentle illumination. Avoid blasting the rim; sharp jets can cause tissue peel. Occasional rotation or slight repositioning can balance light on the inner surface.

My chalice extends feeders at night but ignores food—what’s the trick?

Time feedings 60–90 minutes after lights out when feeders are fully out. Offer fine meaty micro-particles (e.g., mysis slurry, reef roids mixed thin) carried by gentle flow rather than direct blasts. Overly large pieces provoke mucus and detachment. If it still refuses, stabilize alkalinity and phosphate, slightly raise nitrate, and try amino or fatty-acid enriched microfoods every 3–4 days.

It’s receding from a single spot despite stable parameters—what could be causing it?

Check for localized irritants: vermetid snail webs, stinging neighbors, hidden detritus under the rim, or microalgae creeping onto the edge. Gently

TSA Avatar Chalice Coral

Chalice

Overview

Avatar Chalice Coral shows a low, plating to encrusting form with raised ridges and distinct mouth corallites. Echinophyllia sp. is a large-polyp stony coral that forms thin plates; it prefers moderate light and low to moderate, indirect flow. It relies on symbiotic algae for energy but accepts occasional small meaty foods at night, which can improve growth and coloration. Provide space from neighbors due to sweeper tentacles and place on a stable surface where its edges can expand.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate

Lighting Low–Moderate

Flow Low–Moderate

Placement Low–Mid

Temperament Aggressive (6–8 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–10 dKH

Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic (primary), microplankton, zooplankton, rotifers, cyclops, finely chopped mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, coral-specific powdered foods

Care & Placement

Avatar Chalice Coral (Echinophyllia sp.) prefers stable, nutrient-balanced systems with moderate husbandry. Provide low to moderate light (PAR ~50–125); start in shade and increase slowly to avoid bleaching and loss of fluorescence. Use low, indirect flow that keeps a light ripple across the surface; enough to prevent detritus settling but not strong enough to lift tissue. Target feed 1–2 times weekly after lights down with small meaty foods (mysis, chopped shrimp) or fine coral foods; occasional amino acids can support color and growth. Maintain temperature 75–79°F (24–26°C), salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.0–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1300–1400 ppm, nitrate 2–10 ppm, and phosphate 0.03–0.08 ppm. Prioritize stability; swings often trigger recession.Place on the lower to mid regions, on a stable rock ledge or sand-safe frag tile with the face horizontal for even light. Leave 3–6 inches from neighbors—sweeper tentacles extend at night and can sting nearby corals. Peaceful with most LPS when spaced; avoid close proximity to aggressive Euphyllia and fast encrusters. Acclimate by dipping, inspecting for pests (flatworms, nudibranchs), and using a light acclimation mode or window screen method over 1–2 weeks. Watch for signs: pale/bleached (too much light or too clean), browned (excess nutrients/low light), receding edges (alkalinity swings or pests). Improve flow around the base, stabilize parameters, and increase targeted feeding to encourage recovery; avoid blasting flow or rapid parameter corrections.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the TSA Avatar Chalice Coral

Why does my Avatar Chalice lose pink/blue pop and turn dull under “good” lighting?

Echinophyllia often prefers lower PAR (60–120) with blue-heavy spectrum and mild nutrients. Too much white/red or very low nutrients can wash pigments; intense light can trigger photoinhibition and browning. Try shading or reducing intensity 20–30%, extend blues, and allow nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1. Expect color rebound over 2–6 weeks if alkalinity and trace stability are maintained.
The growth rim looks thick but the center stalls—normal for this coral?

Yes. Avatar Chalice typically plates outward, building a rim first while adding “eyes” (corallites) later. Edge growth can shadow the center, slowing vertical build. Provide oblique, indirect flow and angled light so the interior gets gentle illumination. Avoid blasting the rim; sharp jets can cause tissue peel. Occasional rotation or slight repositioning can balance light on the inner surface.
My chalice extends feeders at night but ignores food—what’s the trick?

Time feedings 60–90 minutes after lights out when feeders are fully out. Offer fine meaty micro-particles (e.g., mysis slurry, reef roids mixed thin) carried by gentle flow rather than direct blasts. Overly large pieces provoke mucus and detachment. If it still refuses, stabilize alkalinity and phosphate, slightly raise nitrate, and try amino or fatty-acid enriched microfoods every 3–4 days.
It’s receding from a single spot despite stable parameters—what could be causing it?

Check for localized irritants: vermetid snail webs, stinging neighbors, hidden detritus under the rim, or microalgae creeping onto the edge. Gently

Account

Your cart is empty