Why does my Acid Rain Chalice lose neon color under bright lights?

Echinophyllia aspera is adapted to shaded reef slopes. High PAR or strong white spectrum can wash out pigments, starting at the rim. Move it to lower light and favor blue-heavy spectrum; acclimate down in 10–20% steps per week. Moderate nutrients (nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm) and small, frequent feedings at night help restore fluorescence without encouraging algae.

How can I encourage a tidy, plate-like growth rather than lumpy ridges?

Stable alkalinity (8–9 dKH) and consistent, moderate flow guide uniform calcification at the rim. Mount the frag on a flat, slightly tilted surface so the rim isn’t shadowed; avoid abrupt light shifts that trigger uneven growth. Keep detritus off the base—gentle crossflow prevents dead spots that cause bumps and tissue puckering as the coral walls off debris.

My chalice is receding from the edges despite stable parameters—what’s the hidden cause?

Edge recession often points to chronic micro-irritation: too much direct flow, trapped detritus, or nightly stings. Reduce velocity, aim for indirect, alternating flow, and blow off the rim with a bulb syringe weekly. Give 3–4 inches of space; nighttime sweepers can trigger warfare. If tissue is ragged, dip for bacteria and consider a short antibiotic bath if brown jelly appears.

What’s the best way to feed this coral without fouling the tank?

Target feed after lights out when feeder tentacles extend. Offer fine meaty foods (mysis slurries, reef-specific microfoods) in tiny portions using a pipette; a feeding dome prevents theft. Two to three small feedings weekly outperform single heavy meals. Rinse frozen foods to limit phosphate spikes, and reduce return flow briefly so food stays over the mouths.

TSA Acid Rain Chalice Coral

Chalice LPS

Overview

Acid Rain Chalice Coral shows a low, plating surface with raised “eyes” and contrasting green to yellow tones. Echinophyllia aspera is a hard, encrusting-to-plating LPS coral that prefers moderate light and low to moderate, indirect flow. It is photosynthetic with symbiotic algae but accepts occasional small meaty foods at night to support growth and maintain color. Place on stable rock with space, as its sweeper tentacles can sting neighboring corals.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate

Lighting Low–Moderate

Flow Low–Moderate

Placement Low–Mid

Temperament Semi-aggressive (long nighttime sweepers; provide 6–8 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–9 dKH

Magnesium 1280–1380 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic (primary), microplankton, rotifers, copepods, coral-specific powdered foods, finely chopped mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp

Care & Placement

Acid Rain Chalice Coral (Echinophyllia aspera) prefers low to moderate light (PAR 75–150) and gentle, indirect flow that keeps the surface free of film without blasting tissue. Start on the sandbed or a shaded lower rock and slowly increase light over 2–3 weeks; too much light causes bleaching and washed-out colors. Feed 2–3 times weekly after lights out with fine meaty foods (mysis slurry, reef roids, chopped krill), targeting extended feeding mouths for faster growth. Keep temperature 75–79°F (24–26°C), salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, calcium 400–450 ppm, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, magnesium 1250–1350 ppm, nitrate 2–10 ppm, phosphate 0.02–0.08 ppm. Stability is key; alk swings and salinity jumps often trigger tissue recession. Use a PAR meter for placement, test alk/cal/mag weekly, and verify salinity with a calibrated refractometer.Place low to mid in the tank with 3–4 inches of space; this coral is semi-aggressive and can extend short sweeper tentacles at night. Avoid neighbors with strong stings (e.g., Galaxea, Hydnophora) and keep detritus from collecting around the base. Mount on a flat rock to allow encrusting. Acclimate by dipping, then 30–45 minutes drip acclimation; use screen or reduced intensity for light acclimation. Troubleshooting: pale color = too much light or low nutrients; receding edges = unstable alkalinity or direct flow; brownish film = insufficient flow—adjust gently and siphon debris.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the TSA Acid Rain Chalice Coral

Why does my Acid Rain Chalice lose neon color under bright lights?

Echinophyllia aspera is adapted to shaded reef slopes. High PAR or strong white spectrum can wash out pigments, starting at the rim. Move it to lower light and favor blue-heavy spectrum; acclimate down in 10–20% steps per week. Moderate nutrients (nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm) and small, frequent feedings at night help restore fluorescence without encouraging algae.
How can I encourage a tidy, plate-like growth rather than lumpy ridges?

Stable alkalinity (8–9 dKH) and consistent, moderate flow guide uniform calcification at the rim. Mount the frag on a flat, slightly tilted surface so the rim isn’t shadowed; avoid abrupt light shifts that trigger uneven growth. Keep detritus off the base—gentle crossflow prevents dead spots that cause bumps and tissue puckering as the coral walls off debris.
My chalice is receding from the edges despite stable parameters—what’s the hidden cause?

Edge recession often points to chronic micro-irritation: too much direct flow, trapped detritus, or nightly stings. Reduce velocity, aim for indirect, alternating flow, and blow off the rim with a bulb syringe weekly. Give 3–4 inches of space; nighttime sweepers can trigger warfare. If tissue is ragged, dip for bacteria and consider a short antibiotic bath if brown jelly appears.
What’s the best way to feed this coral without fouling the tank?

Target feed after lights out when feeder tentacles extend. Offer fine meaty foods (mysis slurries, reef-specific microfoods) in tiny portions using a pipette; a feeding dome prevents theft. Two to three small feedings weekly outperform single heavy meals. Rinse frozen foods to limit phosphate spikes, and reduce return flow briefly so food stays over the mouths.