Why does my Stained Glass Chalice Coral lose contrast or “wash out” under bright lights?

Echinophyllia sp. often come from deeper, turbid zones and prefer lower to moderate PAR with strong blue spectrum. Too much white or high PAR can bleach pigments and flatten contrast. Start in partial shade (100–150 PAR), then acclimate slowly. Maintain modest nutrients (e.g., NO3 5–15 ppm, PO4 0.03–0.1 ppm); ultra‑low nutrients also dull colors. If paling, reduce intensity, extend blue period, and stabilize alkalinity.

How aggressive is it at night, and what spacing does it need from neighbors?

Chalices extend long sweepers after lights out—often 2–4 inches, sometimes more on established colonies. Give ample buffer on all sides, especially from fleshy LPS and torches that can retaliate. Avoid direct flow that could carry stings downstream onto sensitive corals. If it’s repeatedly stinging a neighbor you want to keep, insert a small rubble barrier or relocate the more mobile piece.

My chalice is receding from the edges despite “stable” parameters. What’s a less obvious cause?

Edge recession often follows micro‑irritation: vermetid snail webs, sand abrasion, or laminar flow peeling tissue. Check for vermetids near the rim and break them off, reduce direct flow, and keep sand off the margins. Also watch alkalinity swing—rapid changes are hard on chalices even within “normal” ranges. Temporarily lower light, feed lightly at night, and use an iodine dip if lesions appear.

What feeding strategy brings out growth without blowing up nutrients?

Target feed small particle foods or finely minced meaty fare 1–2 times weekly, 30–60 minutes after lights out when feeding tentacles emerge. Turn off pumps to reduce waste. A small, consistent ration yields better results than heavy, infrequent feedings. Pair with regular export (skimming, refugium) so polyp gains aren’t offset by algae pressure on the skeleton.

Stained Glass Chalice Coral

Chalice LPS

Overview

Stained Glass Chalice Coral shows a low, plating to encrusting form with distinct “eyes” (raised corallites) and contrasting color patches. Echinophyllia sp. is a large-polyp stony coral that prefers low to moderate lighting and gentle to moderate water flow. It is photosynthetic via symbiotic algae but benefits from occasional small meaty feedings, which can improve growth and maintain coloration. Place it on a stable lower-rock or sand location and allow space, as it can extend short sweeper tentacles that may sting nearby corals.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate

Lighting Low–Moderate

Flow Moderate, indirect

Placement Low–Mid

Temperament Aggressive (6–8 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–9.5 dKH

Magnesium 1280–1380 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic, zooplankton, microplankton, rotifers, cyclops, finely chopped mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, powdered coral foods (e.g., Reef-Roids), marine snow

Care & Placement

Stained Glass Chalice Coral (Echinophyllia sp.) prefers low to moderate light (PAR 80–150) with indirect exposure; start on the sandbed or lower rock and slowly increase light over 2–4 weeks to avoid bleaching. Provide gentle, random flow to keep detritus from settling without lifting tissue; avoid direct jets. Target feed 1–2 times weekly after lights dim with fine particulate foods and small meaty items (reef roids, cyclops, minced mysis). Maintain stable water: temperature 24–26°C (75–79°F), salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 420–460 ppm, magnesium 1300–1400 ppm, nitrate 2–10 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.08 ppm. Test weekly and dose to keep swings minimal; this coral is sensitive to rapid changes, especially in alkalinity and light. Place low to mid tank with a flat, smooth surface; give 3–6 inches of space from neighbors. It is semi‑aggressive and can send out sweepers and mesenterial filaments at night. Use drip acclimation (30–45 minutes) and a coral dip to reduce pest risk; light acclimate with shade or screens. Watch for tissue recession from edges (often excess light/flow or low nutrients) and brown jelly in wounds; siphon, dip, and improve flow if seen. If colors fade, lower PAR, improve feeding, and stabilize nutrients. Avoid sharp rock, strong direct flow, and fast‑growing encroachers.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Stained Glass Chalice Coral

Why does my Stained Glass Chalice Coral lose contrast or “wash out” under bright lights?

Echinophyllia sp. often come from deeper, turbid zones and prefer lower to moderate PAR with strong blue spectrum. Too much white or high PAR can bleach pigments and flatten contrast. Start in partial shade (100–150 PAR), then acclimate slowly. Maintain modest nutrients (e.g., NO3 5–15 ppm, PO4 0.03–0.1 ppm); ultra‑low nutrients also dull colors. If paling, reduce intensity, extend blue period, and stabilize alkalinity.
How aggressive is it at night, and what spacing does it need from neighbors?

Chalices extend long sweepers after lights out—often 2–4 inches, sometimes more on established colonies. Give ample buffer on all sides, especially from fleshy LPS and torches that can retaliate. Avoid direct flow that could carry stings downstream onto sensitive corals. If it’s repeatedly stinging a neighbor you want to keep, insert a small rubble barrier or relocate the more mobile piece.
My chalice is receding from the edges despite “stable” parameters. What’s a less obvious cause?

Edge recession often follows micro‑irritation: vermetid snail webs, sand abrasion, or laminar flow peeling tissue. Check for vermetids near the rim and break them off, reduce direct flow, and keep sand off the margins. Also watch alkalinity swing—rapid changes are hard on chalices even within “normal” ranges. Temporarily lower light, feed lightly at night, and use an iodine dip if lesions appear.
What feeding strategy brings out growth without blowing up nutrients?

Target feed small particle foods or finely minced meaty fare 1–2 times weekly, 30–60 minutes after lights out when feeding tentacles emerge. Turn off pumps to reduce waste. A small, consistent ration yields better results than heavy, infrequent feedings. Pair with regular export (skimming, refugium) so polyp gains aren’t offset by algae pressure on the skeleton.