Rimless Watermelon Chalice Coral

Rimless Watermelon Chalice Coral

Chalice LPS

Overview

Rimless Watermelon Chalice Coral shows a flat, undulating plate with a contrasting rim and eye-like mouths. Echinophyllia aspera is a stony, plating LPS coral that prefers low to moderate light and gentle to moderate water flow. It is photosynthetic via symbiotic algae but will accept small meaty foods at night, which can support faster growth and richer color. Place on a stable, slightly shaded ledge with space around it, as sweeper tentacles can sting nearby corals; acclimate to light slowly.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate
Lighting Low–Moderate
Flow Low–Moderate
Placement Low–Mid
Temperament Aggressive (4–6 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F
pH 8.1–8.4
Salinity 1.025–1.026
Calcium 400–450 ppm
AlkAlkalinity 8–9.5 dKH
Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm
Feeding photosynthetic, finely chopped mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, copepods, rotifers, microplankton, powdered coral foods, marine snow

Care & Placement

Rimless Watermelon Chalice Coral (Echinophyllia aspera) thrives with stable, nutrient-balanced reef conditions and gentle handling. Provide low to moderate light (PAR 80–150), starting shaded on the sandbed or lower rockwork and increase slowly over 2–3 weeks to avoid bleaching. Use gentle to moderate, indirect flow that keeps the surface free of debris without lifting tissue. Feed 1–3 times weekly after lights dim using fine meaty foods (reef roids, powdered plankton, finely minced mysis) to support growth and color. Target feed lightly to prevent excess waste. Maintain: temperature 24–26°C/75–78°F, salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1250–1350 ppm, nitrate 2–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.08 ppm. Test weekly (more often in new systems) and keep changes gradual; this coral is sensitive to rapid swings, especially in light and alkalinity.Place low to mid-level on a flat, stable surface so it can plate and encrust; avoid constant sand abrasion. Allow 7–15 cm (3–6 in) clearance—Echinophyllia extends short to moderate stingers at night and can burn neighbors. Keep away from other aggressive LPS. Acclimate by temperature matching and a 30–45 minute drip; dip and inspect for pests. Common issues: pale/bleached tissue (too much light too fast), recession from edges (alkalinity instability, detritus buildup, or bacterial stress). Address by lowering PAR, stabilizing parameters, improving gentle flow, performing an iodine-based dip if infection is suspected, and ensuring moderate nutrients.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Rimless Watermelon Chalice Coral

  • How do I keep the classic “watermelon” rim and eye colors on Echinophyllia aspera?
    Aim for low–moderate PAR (80–150), strong blue spectrum, and stable nutrients (nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1). Too much white light or ultra-low nutrients can wash the rim; excessive intensity can gray the base. Maintain stable alkalinity (7.5–8.5 dKH). Occasional amino feeds or fine particle foods at night help deepen pigments without forcing fast, stressed growth.
  • Why is my chalice shading itself and losing color in the center?
    This species plates and ridges as it expands, creating shaded valleys where color can dull. Rotate the rock slightly every few weeks, or adjust flow to reduce detritus settling in low spots. Provide side-angle light rather than blasting from above. Keep PAR lower at the edges to preserve the fluorescent rim while ensuring the center still receives gentle, diffuse light.
  • How aggressive is this coral at night, and how much space does it need?
    It extends short to medium sweepers after lights out and can digest neighboring tissue on contact. Leave 3–4 inches of clearance from other corals, more down-current. Run fresh carbon and maintain good export if mixing with allelopathic LPS or softies. Avoid placing it beside abrasive sand flow; grains trapped on the rim can cause localized tissue loss.
  • My rim is receding even though parameters look fine—what else should I check?
    Look for vermetid snails and their mucous webs, which abrade tissue; also check for sand abrasion, detritus trapped under the lip, and flow that’s too direct. Subtle alkalinity swings day-to-day can start slow tissue necrosis. Reduce light intensity 20% temporarily, perform an iodine dip, trim dead skeleton to clean margins, and stabilize pH/alk with a tighter dosing schedule.