JF Chemical Reaction Chalice Coral

JF Chemical Reaction Chalice Coral

Chalice

Overview

JF Chemical Reaction Chalice Coral shows a flat, plating surface with raised eyes and contrasting coloration. Classified as Echinophyllia sp., it is a stony chalice coral that grows as encrusting plates; it prefers moderate light and low to moderate, indirect flow. It is photosynthetic via symbiotic algae but benefits from occasional small meaty foods at night, which can improve growth and maintain color. Place on a stable rock or sandbed with space around it, as sweeper tentacles can sting nearby corals.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate
Lighting Low–Moderate
Flow Moderate, indirect
Placement Low–Mid
Temperament Aggressive (6–8 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F
pH 8.1–8.4
Salinity 1.025–1.026
Calcium 400–450 ppm
AlkAlkalinity 8–9 dKH
Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm
Feeding photosynthetic, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped seafood, copepods, rotifers, zooplankton, microplankton, coral-specific powders (e.g., Reef-Roids), amino acid supplements

Care & Placement

JF Chemical Reaction Chalice Coral (Echinophyllia sp.) prefers stable, low to moderate light (PAR 50–150) and gentle, indirect flow that keeps the surface clean without lifting tissue. Start in lower areas or shaded ledges and move up slowly over 2–3 weeks; sudden light increases cause bleaching. Feed 1–2 times weekly after lights out when feeding tentacles extend; offer small meaty foods (mysis, enriched brine) or fine coral foods. Keep temperature 76–79°F (24–26°C), salinity 1.025–1.026 (35 ppt), pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1300–1400 ppm, nitrate 2–10 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.08 ppm. Test weekly, use an auto top-off for salinity stability, and verify light with a PAR meter if possible.Place on the sandbed or a stable rock shelf in the lower half of the tank. Provide 3–6 inches of space; Echinophyllia can extend short sweeper tentacles at night and may sting neighbors. Keep away from aggressive LPS and soft corals that overgrow. Acclimate by dipping, inspecting for pests, and light-shading with screen or reduced photoperiod. Common issues: bleaching (too much light), tissue recession (alkalinity swings, pests, or direct blast), and algae on exposed skeleton. Troubleshoot by lowering light intensity, restoring stable parameters, increasing gentle flow to prevent detritus buildup, and spot-feeding to support recovery. Handle by the plug or skeleton, not the flesh, and turn pumps off during target feeding, resuming low flow after 10–15 minutes.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the JF Chemical Reaction Chalice Coral

  • Why does my JF Chemical Reaction chalice lose neon rim/eye contrast after a few weeks?
    This morph is light- and nutrient-sensitive. Intense PAR (>150–200) washes pigments, while ultra-low nitrate/phosphate mutes eyes. Aim for 80–150 PAR, strong blue/UV spectrum, and moderate nutrients (NO3 5–15 ppm, PO4 0.03–0.08). Avoid rapid alkalinity swings; chalices fade or recede at unstable dKH. Trace balance (especially iodine and potassium) supports rim color; dose only if test kits confirm deficit.
  • The edges are receding inward at night—what’s causing it and how do I stop it?
    Nighttime mesenterial filament wars or vermetid mucus irritation are common triggers. Give 3–4 inches clearance down-current from aggressive neighbors, break vermetid tubes, and increase random but gentle flow. Verify no nipping from dwarf angels. Stabilize alkalinity 8–9 dKH and raise nutrients slightly if ultra-lean. An iodine dip and clean frag plug can halt bacterial edge melt.
  • It won’t take food during the day—am I underfeeding?
    Echinophyllia extend feeders mostly after lights out. Try a 15–30 minute blue/actinic phase and a tiny amino or food “teaser,” then target mysis/roe/reef roids gently. Feed 1–2x weekly. If mouths stay tight, check salinity and pH stability; stressed chalices won’t feed. Avoid blasting; small, sticky portions on the eyes work best.
  • Can I let it grow onto the main rockwork for a plating look?
    It will encrust and plate over contours, but plan ahead. Once it fuses to large rock, removal is difficult and collateral damage likely. Isolate on a “chalice island” or a removable shelf. Keep the growing edge from touching other LPS/zoas; this morph throws potent filaments. Maintain space on all sides to guide growth and simplify pruning.