Green Splatter Wall Hammer Coral

Green Splatter Wall Hammer Coral

Overview

The Green Splatter Wall Hammer Coral shows hammer-shaped tentacle tips with a mottled green pattern along a continuous wall skeleton. Fimbriaphyllia ancora is a wall-forming LPS coral that prefers moderate light and gentle to moderate, indirect flow. It relies on symbiotic algae for most nutrition but will accept small meaty foods, which can support faster growth and deeper coloration. Place it on stable rock with space around it, as its sweeper tentacles can sting nearby corals.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate
Lighting Low–Moderate
Flow Moderate indirect
Placement Mid–Low
Temperament Aggressive (6–10 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F
pH 8.1–8.4
Salinity 1.025–1.026
Calcium 400–450 ppm
AlkAlkalinity 8–10 dKH
Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm
Feeding photosynthetic, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped seafood (shrimp, clam), copepods, zooplankton, microplankton, marine snow, coral-specific powdered foods

Care & Placement

Green Splatter Wall Hammer Coral (Fimbriaphyllia ancora) prefers moderate light and gentle, indirect flow. Target PAR around 80–150; acclimate to light over 1–2 weeks to prevent bleaching. Provide low to moderate, rolling flow that moves the polyps lightly without whipping; this helps keep slime and detritus from settling while preventing tissue tears. Feed 1–2 times weekly with small meaty foods (mysis, enriched brine, finely chopped seafood) or coral foods; spot-feed after lights dim when tentacles are sticky. Keep stable water: 76–79°F, pH 8.0–8.4, salinity 1.025–1.026, calcium 400–450 ppm, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, magnesium 1300–1400 ppm, nitrate 2–10 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.10 ppm. Avoid rapid changes, especially in alkalinity and salinity. Test weekly and use a refractometer and reliable test kits.Place low to mid in the tank on sand or a smooth, flat rock; avoid sharp edges contacting tissue. Allow 4–8 inches of space—sweeper tentacles can extend several inches at night. Keep away from aggressive stingers; peaceful tankmates are best. Clownfish may be too rough. Acclimate with a 30–45 minute drip, then dip and inspect for pests; handle by the skeleton, not the flesh. Watch for brown jelly or recession; improve flow, siphon affected tissue, consider an iodine dip, and stabilize parameters. If deflated or receding, check for parameter swings; if pale, reduce light and increase feeding. Stability and gentle flow are the keys to long-term success.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Green Splatter Wall Hammer Coral

  • Why does my Green Splatter Wall Hammer recede along the ridge while the tips look fine?
    Wall morphs (F. ancora) have a continuous skeleton, so stress often shows as a “peeling” line along the ridge. Common triggers are alk swings, excessive laminar flow hitting the ridge, or sand abrasion. Stabilize alkalinity (7.8–9.0 dKH), use broad, indirect flow, and raise it slightly off sand on a flat rock. An iodine dip can help if tissue is bacterial-compromised.
  • How do I keep the green splatter pattern vivid without bleaching it?
    Maintain moderate PAR (100–150) with strong blue spectrum. Rapid jumps in light can wash pigment or cause pale patches. Acclimate over 2–3 weeks and avoid intense white peaks. Keep nutrients non-zero (NO3 5–15 ppm, PO4 0.03–0.1) to support coloration. Stable trace levels (especially iron and manganese) help fluorescence; avoid aggressive carbon dosing that strips nutrients too low.
  • Can wall hammers be fragged safely, and what method works best?
    It’s risky but doable. Use a diamond band saw to make clean, straight cuts through bare skeleton only—never through inflated tissue. After cutting, apply a thin wick of thick gel glue along the cut edge, then dip in iodine. Mount each piece firmly to prevent wobble. Provide low–moderate flow during healing. Avoid repeated micro-cuts; one decisive cut reduces infection risk.
  • Are they compatible with other Euphyllia, or will they fight?
    Despite family ties, F. ancora can sting even close relatives (paraancora, glabrescens). Night sweepers can extend 6–8 inches. Give a wide buffer and avoid direct contact. Chemical allelopathy can still occur in tight spaces—run carbon and ensure good export. If cohabiting, place the wall hammer downstream of more aggressive torches and monitor for “burn” lines or mucus battles.