Green Splatter Hammer Coral

Green Splatter Hammer Coral

Overview

Green Splatter Hammer Coral displays bright green, hammer-shaped tips with a speckled pattern across its polyps. Fimbriaphyllia paraancora is a branching large-polyp stony coral that prefers moderate lighting and moderate, indirect water flow. It relies mainly on symbiotic algae but benefits from occasional small meaty feedings, which support faster growth and stronger coloration. Place it where its sweeper tentacles cannot reach other corals, and secure it to prevent damage from movement.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate
Lighting Moderate
Flow Moderate, indirect
Placement Mid–Low
Temperament Semi-aggressive (6–10 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 77–80°F
pH 8.1–8.4
Salinity 1.025–1.026
Calcium 400–450 ppm
AlkAlkalinity 8–10 dKH
Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm
Feeding photosynthetic (primary), mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped shrimp or krill, copepods, zooplankton, LPS pellets/powders, marine snow, microplankton

Care & Placement

Green Splatter Hammer Coral (Fimbriaphyllia paraancora) thrives in stable, mature systems with moderate light and gentle, indirect flow. Aim for 80–150 PAR; start low and increase slowly to avoid bleaching and retraction. Provide a varied, pulsing flow that keeps the fleshy tentacles swaying without whipping, which can tear tissue and expose skeleton. Feed 1–2 times weekly with small meaty foods (mysis, chopped shrimp) or fine coral foods; target feed lightly to boost growth and color without spiking nutrients. Maintain temperature 76–79°F (24–26°C), pH 8.0–8.3, salinity 1.025–1.026, calcium 420–460 ppm, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, magnesium 1300–1400 ppm, nitrate 2–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.10 ppm. Prioritize stability, especially alkalinity; use reliable test kits and check weekly (more often in newer tanks).Place low to mid-level on a stable rock ledge or sand-safe mount, allowing 6–8 inches clearance from other corals. This species is semi‑aggressive and extends sweeper tentacles at night that can sting neighbors; avoid placing near other Euphyllia/Fimbriaphyllia unless you observe compatibility. Acclimate by dripping 30–45 minutes, dip to remove pests, and light-acclimate over 1–2 weeks with reduced intensity or a screen. Handle by the skeleton, not the flesh. Common issues include bleaching from too much light, recession from unstable alkalinity or excessive flow, and brown jelly disease after damage; increase aeration/flow, siphon affected tissue, iodine dip, and remove dead heads promptly. Keep detritus from settling at the base and ensure firm mounting to prevent tipping.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Green Splatter Hammer Coral

  • How does the branching growth of Fimbriaphyllia paraancora affect placement and future space planning?
    This coral grows by budding new heads along branching skeletons, widening like a hedge rather than a single wall. Plan for lateral expansion and night sweeper reach of 3–5 inches. Leave open lanes for flow between branches to prevent detritus pockets. When heads crowd, shadows increase; raising PAR slightly or trimming inner branches helps avoid tissue recession in shaded zones.
  • My Green Splatter pattern is fading—what tweaks help keep the speckled look vivid?
    Maintain moderate PAR (80–150) with strong blue spectrum; excessive white light washes fluorescence. Keep nutrients non-zero (NO3 5–15 ppm, PO4 0.03–0.1) and avoid rapid alkalinity swings. Moderate, indirect flow prevents film algae on tissue that dulls color. Trace-safe amino feeds 1–2x weekly can boost tissue fullness; avoid heavy feeding that drives browning.
  • It retracts and shows thin, stringy mesenterial filaments after a flow change—what’s happening?
    That’s a stress response from shear or abrupt velocity shifts. Redirect powerheads so flow is broad and alternating, not a jet. Aim for polyp sway without folding. Check for vermetid snails or sharp skeleton edges catching tissue. Stabilize dKH 8–9 and temperature; sudden chemistry swings amplify flow sensitivity and can trigger partial bailout.
  • Are there unique compatibility issues with other Euphylliids, especially torches?
    Yes. While some hammers tolerate close neighbors, torches (F. glabrescens) often outcompete them chemically and with longer sweepers. Keep several inches more distance from torches than from other hammers/frogs. Avoid direct contact with cynarinas and galaxea, which can burn heads overnight. Activated carbon and steady export help when mixing allelopathic LPS in tight quarters.