How is Fimbriaphyllia paraancora different from wall hammers, and why does it matter for care?

F. paraancora forms branching heads, not a continuous “wall.” That means it’s easier and safer to frag between branches, and damage to one head is less likely to spread. Branching also changes water flow needs—aim for gentle, rolling movement that keeps polyps inflated without folding. Allow 3–6 inches clearance for sweepers. Mount securely so branches don’t rub rockwork, which can cause tissue tears and slow recession at the base.

My Green Highlighter tips look dull under whites—how do I keep that neon pop?

Keep PAR moderate (around 80–150), prioritize strong blue/violet spectrum (420–460 nm), and avoid abrupt light changes. Stable nutrients support color: target nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.10 ppm—too lean can wash it out, too rich browns it. Consistent alk 8–9 dKH, Ca ~420 ppm, Mg ~1350 ppm. Trace balance matters; regular water changes often restore iron/manganese that fuel green fluorescence without risking overdosing.

What’s the best response to sudden brown, slimy tissue (brown jelly) on a head?

Act fast: siphon the slime, remove the colony, and frag away any affected heads well into healthy skeleton. Follow with a concentrated iodine or chlorhexidine coral dip and increase flow slightly to prevent stagnation. Reduce organics with fresh carbon and a larger water change. Check for stressors—swinging alkalinity, overly low flow, or recent injury. Isolate the coral for observation; discard tools or disinfect to avoid cross‑contamination.

Can clownfish or shrimp live in it, or will they cause problems?

Some clownfish will adopt it, but persistent rubbing can bruise tissue, block polyp extension, and invite infection. If a pair fixates on it, provide a decoy (e.g., a large soft coral or anemone substitute) or use a mesh cage until they redirect. Feeding shrimp often steal food and pick at polyps; target feed after lights dim and distract shrimp elsewhere. Watch for localized recession where animals make frequent contact.

Green Highlighter Tip Hammer Coral

Hammers

Overview

Green Highlighter Tip Hammer Coral has wall-like heads with anchor-shaped tentacle tips highlighted in bright green. Fimbriaphyllia paraancora is an LPS, wall-forming hammer coral that prefers moderate light and gentle to moderate, indirect water flow. It relies on symbiotic algae but accepts occasional small meaty foods, which can support growth and color. Place with ample space from other corals due to stinging sweepers, and avoid strong, direct flow that can damage tissue.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate

Lighting Moderate

Flow Moderate, indirect

Placement Mid–Low

Temperament Semi-aggressive (maintain 4–6 inches clearance for sweeper tentacles)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–10 dKH

Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped shrimp or clam, copepods, rotifers, zooplankton, microplankton, coral-specific powdered foods, marine snow

Care & Placement

Green Highlighter Tip Hammer Coral (Fimbriaphyllia paraancora) prefers moderate light and gentle, indirect flow. Target 80–150 PAR; acclimate to light over 1–2 weeks using reduced intensity or shading to prevent bleaching. Provide a lazy, alternating current that keeps tissue swaying without blasting; excessive flow can cause recession, while too little invites detritus buildup—use a turkey baster to puff debris away. Feed 1–2 times weekly with small meaty foods (mysis, finely chopped shrimp, LPS pellets) or a fine coral food; feed at dusk when tentacles are most receptive. Keep temperature 76–79°F (24–26°C), salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1280–1400 ppm, nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.10 ppm. Test weekly, watch for alk swings, and use a PAR meter or app-based meter for placement checks.Place low to mid in the tank on stable rock or a coral rack with 6–8 inches clearance; it is semi‑aggressive and grows sweeper tentacles (3–6 inches at night). Keep distance from torches, galaxea, and other stingers; it usually coexists with soft corals but avoid direct contact. Drip acclimate 30–45 minutes and consider a prophylactic coral dip. Signs of stress: paling/bleaching (reduce light, raise nutrients slightly), tissue recession (lower flow, stabilize alkalinity), brown jelly after damage (isolate, trim infected heads, iodine dip, improve flow). Avoid sharp rock edges, sudden parameter shifts, and sand blasting the tissue. Stable conditions and moderate feeding support steady growth and color.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Green Highlighter Tip Hammer Coral

How is Fimbriaphyllia paraancora different from wall hammers, and why does it matter for care?

F. paraancora forms branching heads, not a continuous “wall.” That means it’s easier and safer to frag between branches, and damage to one head is less likely to spread. Branching also changes water flow needs—aim for gentle, rolling movement that keeps polyps inflated without folding. Allow 3–6 inches clearance for sweepers. Mount securely so branches don’t rub rockwork, which can cause tissue tears and slow recession at the base.
My Green Highlighter tips look dull under whites—how do I keep that neon pop?

Keep PAR moderate (around 80–150), prioritize strong blue/violet spectrum (420–460 nm), and avoid abrupt light changes. Stable nutrients support color: target nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.10 ppm—too lean can wash it out, too rich browns it. Consistent alk 8–9 dKH, Ca ~420 ppm, Mg ~1350 ppm. Trace balance matters; regular water changes often restore iron/manganese that fuel green fluorescence without risking overdosing.
What’s the best response to sudden brown, slimy tissue (brown jelly) on a head?

Act fast: siphon the slime, remove the colony, and frag away any affected heads well into healthy skeleton. Follow with a concentrated iodine or chlorhexidine coral dip and increase flow slightly to prevent stagnation. Reduce organics with fresh carbon and a larger water change. Check for stressors—swinging alkalinity, overly low flow, or recent injury. Isolate the coral for observation; discard tools or disinfect to avoid cross‑contamination.
Can clownfish or shrimp live in it, or will they cause problems?

Some clownfish will adopt it, but persistent rubbing can bruise tissue, block polyp extension, and invite infection. If a pair fixates on it, provide a decoy (e.g., a large soft coral or anemone substitute) or use a mesh cage until they redirect. Feeding shrimp often steal food and pick at polyps; target feed after lights dim and distract shrimp elsewhere. Watch for localized recession where animals make frequent contact.

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