Gold Hammer Coral

Gold Hammer Coral

Overview

Gold Hammer Coral features branching heads with gold, hammer-shaped tentacle tips. Fimbriaphyllia paraancora is a large-polyp stony coral with a branching skeleton; it prefers moderate lighting and gentle to moderate, indirect flow. It is photosynthetic via symbiotic algae but will take small meaty foods, which can support faster growth and maintain color. Place with ample space, as its sweeper tentacles can sting nearby corals.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate
Lighting Moderate
Flow Moderate, indirect
Placement Mid–Low
Temperament Semi-aggressive (6–8 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 77–80°F
pH 8.1–8.4
Salinity 1.025–1.026
Calcium 420–450 ppm
AlkAlkalinity 8–10 dKH
Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm
Feeding photosynthetic (primary), mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped marine seafood (shrimp, clam), zooplankton, microplankton, LPS coral pellets, powdered coral foods

Care & Placement

Gold Hammer Coral (Fimbriaphyllia paraancora) thrives in stable, nutrient-balanced systems with moderate light and gentle, indirect flow. Aim for PAR ~80–150; place low to mid in the tank and shade gradually if coming from dimmer conditions. Flow should sway the tentacles without blasting the flesh; this helps keep detritus off and prevents tissue damage. Target feed small meaty foods (mysis, chopped shrimp, reef roids) 1–2 times weekly to support growth, especially in lower light. Keep temperature 75–79°F (24–26°C), salinity 1.025–1.026 (35 ppt), pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1280–1400 ppm; maintain nitrate 5–15 ppm and phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm to avoid starvation. Monitor with reliable test kits and make slow adjustments—this coral is sensitive to rapid swings, particularly in alkalinity.Place on a stable rock ledge or clean sandbed with 4–8 inches (10–20 cm) clearance from neighbors; it is semi-aggressive and extends stinging sweepers at night. Compatible with peaceful fish and inverts that won’t pick at fleshy polyps; avoid nippy angels and rough crabs. Acclimate by drip (30–45 minutes) and light-acclimate with screen or reduced photoperiod. Dip on arrival to remove pests. Signs of stress: gaping skeleton or receded tissue (often from low alk, excessive flow, or bacterial issues), and bleaching from too much light. If brown jelly appears, isolate, perform an iodine-based dip, increase flow around the area, and remove dead tissue; fragging healthy heads may save the colony. Avoid handling out of water and never squeeze the fleshy polyp.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Gold Hammer Coral

  • Why is my Gold Hammer Coral losing its gold and shifting toward green or brown?
    Color often shifts with spectrum and nutrient balance. Aim for moderate PAR (100–200) with strong blue/violet. Slightly elevated nutrients support color, but excess nitrate/phosphate promotes browning and zooxanthellae dominance. Stable alk, Ca, and Mg are key; abrupt swings fade pigments. Trace metals (especially iron) from rusting magnets can push green. Improve spectrum, stability, and export, then reassess over 2–4 weeks.
  • Is Fimbriaphyllia paraancora branching, and how should I frag it safely?
    Yes—branching hammer. Target cuts on the bare skeleton between branches with bone cutters or a rotary saw, avoiding live tissue. Pre-dip tools, execute a clean cut, then iodine or broad-spectrum coral dip. Provide moderate, indirect flow for healing, keep detritus off the cut, and maintain steady alkalinity. Expect 1–3 weeks for solid recovery and new polyp inflation.
  • Can Gold Hammers sit near other Euphyllia, like frogspawn or torch corals?
    They’re semi-tolerant with other hammers and some frogspawn, but contact still risks stings and allelopathy. Avoid torches; their nematocysts are stronger and often injure hammers. Leave several inches of space and account for nocturnal sweeper extension. Run activated carbon, provide good flow to dilute chemical cues, and watch for localized recession indicating chemical or physical aggression.
  • What’s the best response to sudden tissue loss or brown jelly on a Gold Hammer?
    Act fast: turkey-baste away debris, perform an iodine or antibacterial dip, and frag away healthy heads from infected tissue if it’s spreading. Increase indirect flow to prevent stagnation, siphon detritus at the base, and stabilize alk and temperature. Reduce feeding temporarily. Consider a targeted broad-spectrum coral dip on day 2–3. Discard heavily necrotic pieces to protect the colony.