Electro Hammer Coral

Electro Hammer Coral

Overview

Hammer Coral has thick, fleshy polyps with hammer- or anchor-shaped tips. Fimbriaphyllia ancora is a large-polyp stony coral that typically forms a wall structure and prefers moderate light with gentle, indirect water flow. It is photosynthetic with symbiotic algae but benefits from occasional small meaty feedings to support growth and maintain color. Place it with ample space from neighbors, as its sweeper tentacles can sting nearby corals.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate
Lighting Moderate
Flow Moderate indirect
Placement Mid–Low
Temperament Semi-aggressive (6–8 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F
pH 8.1–8.4
Salinity 1.025–1.026
Calcium 400–450 ppm
AlkAlkalinity 8–9.5 dKH
Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm
Feeding photosynthetic (primary), mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped seafood, zooplankton, microplankton, LPS pellets, coral-specific powdered foods

Care & Placement

Hammer Coral (Fimbriaphyllia ancora) thrives with stable, moderate conditions and gentle care. Provide moderate light (PAR ~75–150); start low and increase over 1–2 weeks using a dimming ramp or screen to prevent bleaching. Aim for low to moderate, indirect flow that makes the tentacles sway without folding; this limits detritus buildup and tissue damage. Target feed 1–2 times weekly with small meaty foods (mysis, brine, reef roids slurry) after lights dim, when tentacles are extended. Maintain: temp 24–26°C/75–79°F, salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, calcium 400–450 ppm, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, magnesium 1250–1350 ppm, nitrate 2–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.08 ppm. Test weekly and dose to keep numbers steady; this coral is sensitive to swings, especially in alkalinity and salinity. Use an auto top-off and calibrate your refractometer.Place low to mid in the tank with indirect light; set on a flat rock or rubble so the fleshy tissue doesn’t rub sharp edges. Handle by the skeleton, not the flesh. Leave 6–8 inches from neighbors; long sweeper tentacles at night can sting other corals, and mixing with torch corals often ends poorly. Compatible with peaceful tankmates; avoid nipping angels/butterflies and persistent clownfish hosting. Acclimate with a dip to remove pests. Watch for tissue recession or brown jelly; improve stability, increase gentle flow, perform an iodine-based dip, and remove dead heads if needed.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Electro Hammer Coral

  • How do I tell if my Hammer Coral is the wall form (F. ancora), and why does it matter for fragging and growth?
    F. ancora forms a continuous “wall” skeleton with no distinct branches; polyps appear as a long ridge rather than separate heads. Wall hammers grow more slowly and are far riskier to frag—use a diamond saw to fully cut through skeleton, then iodine dip and heal in low–moderate flow with very stable alk/Ca/Mg. Avoid prying or chisel breaks, which tear tissue and often lead to brown jelly.
  • My hammer’s tips shrank after a light upgrade—what’s the ideal light and acclimation?
    Target moderate PAR (80–150) with strong blue spectrum. Sudden increases cause retraction, washed tips, and exposed septa. Acclimate by reducing intensity 20–30% and raising 5–10% weekly, or use screen layers. Pair with gentle, indirect, random flow so tentacles “sway” not whip. If color dulls, slightly boost blue channels; if bleaching begins, lower intensity or shorten photoperiod until extension returns.
  • What’s the fastest way to handle brown jelly on a wall hammer?
    Act immediately: siphon the jelly, then Lugol’s iodine dip (5–10 drops per liter, 5–10 minutes). Improve flow around the tissue and keep temperature and alkalinity rock steady. If necrosis is localized and you have the tools, saw above the infection margin; cutting halfway invites spread. Reduce feeding and detritus, run fresh carbon, and keep nutrients modest (NO3 ~5–15 ppm, PO4 ~0.03–0.1) to support recovery.
  • How far do its tentacles reach at night, and what neighbors are safest?
    Expect nighttime sweepers of 3–6 inches. Keep that radius clear of most LPS and all SPS. Euphyllia can sometimes touch conspecifics, but wall hammers still sting frogspawn and torch corals unpredictably. Torches usually win. Place hammers downwind of aggressive neighbors, ensure good spacing, and run carbon to reduce chemical warfare. Monitor for “sting lines” on tissue and adjust placement before permanent recession sets in.