Electric Torch Coral

Electric Torch Coral

Torch

Overview

Electric Torch Coral shows long, flowing tentacles with bright tips. Fimbriaphyllia glabrescens is a large-polyp stony coral with a branching skeleton; it prefers moderate light and gentle to moderate, swaying flow. It hosts symbiotic algae for primary nutrition but benefits from occasional small meaty feedings, which can support faster growth and stronger coloration. Place it with ample space due to long, stinging sweeper tentacles, and avoid contact with other corals.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate
Lighting Moderate
Flow Moderate, indirect
Placement Mid
Temperament Aggressive (6–10 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F
pH 8.1–8.4
Salinity 1.025–1.026
Calcium 400–450 ppm
AlkAlkalinity 8–9.5 dKH
Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm
Feeding photosynthetic, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped seafood (krill, clam), zooplankton, microplankton, coral-specific powdered foods

Care & Placement

Electric Torch Coral (Fimbriaphyllia glabrescens) thrives in stable, moderate conditions. Target 100–200 PAR with slow light acclimation; use a screen or ramp intensity over 1–2 weeks to avoid bleaching. Provide moderate, indirect flow that makes tentacles sway without whipping, which can tear tissue and invite infection. Feed 1–2 times weekly with small meaty foods (mysis, chopped shrimp) or quality coral foods; brief polyp extension after feeding is normal. Maintain temperature 75–79°F (24–26°C), salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.0–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 420–460 ppm, magnesium 1300–1400 ppm, nitrate 2–10 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.08 ppm. This species is sensitive to swings—test weekly and dose small, frequent adjustments. Keep nutrients low but not zero to support color and growth.Place mid to lower tank depending on light, on a stable rock ledge with the skeleton off the sand. Allow 6–8 inches of clearance from neighbors; torches have strong sweeper stings and can damage hammers, frogspawn, and many LPS/softies. Generally keep separate from other Euphyllia types. Use drip acclimation (30–45 minutes) and dip new pieces to reduce pests. Common issues: bleaching from sudden light—reduce intensity, add shade, and feed lightly; tissue recession or brown jelly—siphon decay, increase flow, perform iodine or broad-spectrum coral dip, and remove dead heads. If polyps stay retracted, check for excessive flow, unstable alkalinity, or pests at the base. Keep detritus off the skeleton with steady flow and avoid handling the fleshy polyp.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Electric Torch Coral

  • Why does my Electric Torch Coral extend extremely long sweepers at night, and how far should I place neighbors?
    This species can throw 6–10 inch sweepers after lights out, especially under higher flow or when sensing other corals. Keep at least 8–12 inches of space from LPS and softies; even other Fimbriaphyllia can be stung. If space is limited, angle flow so sweepers trail into open water, run activated carbon, and avoid placing it downcurrent of sensitive corals.
  • My torch is receding from the base up—how do I tell if it’s brown jelly or slow tissue loss, and what should I do?
    Brown jelly shows opaque, stringy mucous and rapid melt within hours. Immediately frag away healthy heads, iodine dip, increase flow around the colony, and siphon debris. For slow recession with clean tissue edges, test alkalinity stability, reduce direct flow that whips the flesh, and target-feed lightly at night to aid recovery. Maintain low organics and avoid large swings in alkalinity and temperature.
  • Do different color morphs need different lighting to keep their glow without bleaching?
    Gold and highlighter morphs are often more light-sensitive. Start new frags at lower PAR (80–120), then gradually move to 120–180 over 2–3 weeks. Royal blues (420–470 nm) bring out fluorescence; avoid long periods above 200 PAR that can wash colors or cause tip burn. Consistent alkalinity and moderate nutrients (NO3 5–15 ppm, PO4 0.03–0.1) maintain saturation without paling.
  • Can clownfish or shrimp irritate torches, and how do I stop constant retraction?
    Some clownfish attempt to host torches and can abrade tissue; cleaner and peppermint shrimp may steal food and pick at mouths. If you see repeated retraction or torn flesh, redirect flow so tentacles sway gently away from the pest’s patrol route, feed fish first to reduce interest, and consider a mesh “coral guard” during recovery. Providing an alternative host (e.g., a large leather) often diverts clowns.