Why does my Dragon Soul Favia’s color shift from neon gold/green to dull brown or teal under the same PAR?

Spectrum and nutrients matter more than PAR alone. This morph holds best under strong blue bias (14–20K look) with stable nitrate/phosphate; excess food or very high white light increases zoox density, muting fluorescence. Sudden alkalinity swings also wash out color at septa. Stabilize alk (8–9 dKH), run modest nutrients, increase blue spectrum gradually, and allow 2–4 weeks for pigments to rebound.

My Favia shows recession along the ridges while the mouths look fine—what’s causing it?

The septal ridges trap detritus and promote low-flow microzones where bacteria can irritate tissue. Aim a gentle cross-flow to sweep valleys, turkey-baste weekly, and avoid direct blasting. Check for alk swings and elevated temperature; both accelerate ridge recession. If tissue lifts, perform an iodine or broad-spectrum coral dip, trim dead skeleton, and reduce light slightly until recovery.

The coral inflates at night but keeps mouths gaping during the day—normal or a problem?

Brief daytime gaping after feeding is fine; persistent gaping signals stress or hunger. Check for nocturnal pests (flatworms, nipping snails) with a red light. Increase small, meaty feedings at lights-out 2–3 times weekly. Verify salinity and alk stability, reduce PAR slightly for a week, and run fresh carbon to limit allelopathy from nearby LPS like chalices or acans.

Why does tissue recede where the frag meets the plug, even though parameters are stable?

Contact irritation and algae creep are common at the interface. Keep adhesive off living tissue, seal exposed skeleton edges with a thin superglue rim, and maintain clean, laminar flow to prevent film algae. Place the frag on a smooth, non-porous surface first; move to rock only after encrustment begins. Maintain phosphate low but not zero to avoid starvation-driven recession.

Dragon Soul Favia Coral

Favia

Overview

Dragon Soul Favia Coral shows bright contrasting centers with ridged, polygonal corallites. Favia favus is a stony, encrusting to mounding coral that does well under moderate light and low to moderate, steady flow. It is photosynthetic via symbiotic algae but benefits from occasional small meaty foods at night, which can support faster growth and deeper coloration. Give it space, as long sweeper tentacles can sting nearby corals; place on stable rock with room to expand.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate

Lighting Low–Moderate

Flow Moderate

Placement Low–Mid

Temperament Aggressive (3–6 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–9.5 dKH

Magnesium 1250–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped seafood (shrimp, clam), zooplankton, rotifers, copepods, microplankton, marine snow, coral-specific foods

Care & Placement

Dragon Soul Favia Coral (Favia favus) thrives with stable, moderate conditions. Provide moderate light at 80–150 PAR; start low and increase over 1–2 weeks to avoid bleaching. Use moderate, indirect, random flow to keep tissue inflated and prevent detritus buildup without blasting the polyps. Feed 1–3 times weekly after lights dim with small meaty foods (mysis, finely chopped seafood) or fine coral foods; briefly pause pumps to improve capture. Maintain temperature 76–79°F, pH 8.1–8.4, salinity 1.025–1.026, calcium 400–450 ppm, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, magnesium 1300–1400 ppm, nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.10 ppm. Test weekly with reliable kits and a refractometer; avoid swings, especially in alkalinity and salinity.Place low to mid in the tank on stable rock with room to grow. Leave 3–6 inches from neighbors; at night it extends long sweepers that can sting nearby corals. Keep distance from other stony corals and known stingers. Acclimate by floating for temperature, then 30–45 minutes of drip acclimation; dip new pieces to reduce pests. For light acclimation, use reduced intensity or a screen for 7–14 days. Signs of stress include tissue recession (often from low nutrients, high flow, or pests) and paling/bleaching (excess light or rapid parameter change). If issues arise, verify parameters, lower light by 20–30%, adjust flow, and target feed to support recovery. Keep the base clean, avoid burying in sand, and maintain consistent maintenance for steady growth and vivid color.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Dragon Soul Favia Coral

Why does my Dragon Soul Favia’s color shift from neon gold/green to dull brown or teal under the same PAR?

Spectrum and nutrients matter more than PAR alone. This morph holds best under strong blue bias (14–20K look) with stable nitrate/phosphate; excess food or very high white light increases zoox density, muting fluorescence. Sudden alkalinity swings also wash out color at septa. Stabilize alk (8–9 dKH), run modest nutrients, increase blue spectrum gradually, and allow 2–4 weeks for pigments to rebound.
My Favia shows recession along the ridges while the mouths look fine—what’s causing it?

The septal ridges trap detritus and promote low-flow microzones where bacteria can irritate tissue. Aim a gentle cross-flow to sweep valleys, turkey-baste weekly, and avoid direct blasting. Check for alk swings and elevated temperature; both accelerate ridge recession. If tissue lifts, perform an iodine or broad-spectrum coral dip, trim dead skeleton, and reduce light slightly until recovery.
The coral inflates at night but keeps mouths gaping during the day—normal or a problem?

Brief daytime gaping after feeding is fine; persistent gaping signals stress or hunger. Check for nocturnal pests (flatworms, nipping snails) with a red light. Increase small, meaty feedings at lights-out 2–3 times weekly. Verify salinity and alk stability, reduce PAR slightly for a week, and run fresh carbon to limit allelopathy from nearby LPS like chalices or acans.
Why does tissue recede where the frag meets the plug, even though parameters are stable?

Contact irritation and algae creep are common at the interface. Keep adhesive off living tissue, seal exposed skeleton edges with a thin superglue rim, and maintain clean, laminar flow to prevent film algae. Place the frag on a smooth, non-porous surface first; move to rock only after encrustment begins. Maintain phosphate low but not zero to avoid starvation-driven recession.

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