Why does my CB Bubbleyum Favia change from hot pink/green to duller tones under some lights?

Favia favus fluoresces strongest under blue/UV-heavy spectra. High white intensity can mute pinks, and excessive PAR can cause top-down paling. Aim for moderate PAR (80–150), ramp light slowly after acclimation, and keep stable nutrients (nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.08). If colors wash out, reduce whites, shorten peak photoperiod, and ensure trace-depleting carbon isn’t overused.

How aggressive is this coral at night, and how should I place it?

It extends 1–2 inch sweeper tentacles after lights out. Give at least 2–3 inches clearance from fleshy LPS and chalices, more in high flow. Mount on an isolated rock to prevent encrusting “creep.” If neighbors show sting marks, shift flow to keep tentacles from being carried into them and increase spacing.

What’s the best way to frag a CB Bubbleyum Favia without damaging polyps?

Use a diamond saw to cut between corallites (look for distinct walls). Avoid crushing with bone cutters, which shatter septa and cause recession. After cutting, place frags in low-moderate light, strong but indirect flow, and stable alkalinity (8–9 dKH). Target feed lightly during healing. Tissue that bridges cuts usually regrows within 2–4 weeks.

My colony inflated and extruded white filaments—what does that mean?

Those are mesenterial filaments, typically a stress or defense response (sting from neighbors, rapid alkalinity swing, or pests). Check for recent parameter changes, remove nearby aggressors, and increase nighttime flow. If tissue damage appears, siphon detritus, perform a gentle iodine-based dip, and keep light lower until recovery. Watch for brown jelly and act quickly if seen.

CB Bubbleyum Favia Coral

Favia

Overview

CB Bubbleyum Favia Coral shows large, rounded polyps with contrasting mouths and ridged walls. Favia favus is a stony, encrusting to dome-forming brain coral; it does well under moderate lighting and low to moderate, steady flow. It relies on symbiotic algae for energy but accepts small meaty foods at night, which can improve growth and color. Place it with space from neighbors, as sweeper tentacles can sting nearby corals.

Quick Facts

Care Easy

Lighting Low–Moderate

Flow Moderate

Placement Low–Mid

Temperament Aggressive (4–6 inches spacing for sweeper tentacles)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–10 dKH

Magnesium 1250–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic, mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, finely chopped seafood, zooplankton, microplankton, coral-specific powdered foods, marine snow

Care & Placement

CB Bubbleyum Favia Coral (Favia favus) thrives under stable, moderate conditions. Place it low to mid in the tank with moderate, indirect light (PAR ~80–150); acclimate to brighter light slowly with screening to avoid bleaching. Provide moderate, cross-flow that keeps the surface clear without blasting the tissue; gentle turbulence helps prevent detritus buildup between corallites. Feed meaty micro foods (mysis, enriched brine, reef roids) 2–3 times weekly after lights out when feeding tentacles extend; target feed lightly to avoid fouling the water. Maintain temperature 75–79°F (24–26°C), salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1250–1350 ppm, nitrate 2–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.10 ppm. Test weekly and aim for stability; Favia is sensitive to rapid swings, especially alkalinity and salinity.Give 3–6 inches of space from neighbors; at night it can extend long sweeper tentacles that sting nearby corals. Best on a stable rock ledge or a sand bed with a small rock under the base to prevent sand abrasion. Drip acclimate, dip for pests, and quarantine when possible. Common issues: bleaching (too much light or sudden change), tissue recession (alkalinity swings, pests, or excessive direct flow), and browning (excess nutrients or very low light). Troubleshoot by stabilizing parameters, adjusting light/flow gradually, and improving export if nutrients climb. Frag with clean bone cutters and allow low flow during healing.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the CB Bubbleyum Favia Coral

Why does my CB Bubbleyum Favia change from hot pink/green to duller tones under some lights?

Favia favus fluoresces strongest under blue/UV-heavy spectra. High white intensity can mute pinks, and excessive PAR can cause top-down paling. Aim for moderate PAR (80–150), ramp light slowly after acclimation, and keep stable nutrients (nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.08). If colors wash out, reduce whites, shorten peak photoperiod, and ensure trace-depleting carbon isn’t overused.
How aggressive is this coral at night, and how should I place it?

It extends 1–2 inch sweeper tentacles after lights out. Give at least 2–3 inches clearance from fleshy LPS and chalices, more in high flow. Mount on an isolated rock to prevent encrusting “creep.” If neighbors show sting marks, shift flow to keep tentacles from being carried into them and increase spacing.
What’s the best way to frag a CB Bubbleyum Favia without damaging polyps?

Use a diamond saw to cut between corallites (look for distinct walls). Avoid crushing with bone cutters, which shatter septa and cause recession. After cutting, place frags in low-moderate light, strong but indirect flow, and stable alkalinity (8–9 dKH). Target feed lightly during healing. Tissue that bridges cuts usually regrows within 2–4 weeks.
My colony inflated and extruded white filaments—what does that mean?

Those are mesenterial filaments, typically a stress or defense response (sting from neighbors, rapid alkalinity swing, or pests). Check for recent parameter changes, remove nearby aggressors, and increase nighttime flow. If tissue damage appears, siphon detritus, perform a gentle iodine-based dip, and keep light lower until recovery. Watch for brown jelly and act quickly if seen.

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