How do I keep the “candy apple” reds and greens from fading under LEDs?

Aim for moderate PAR (80–120) with strong blue/violet (420–470 nm) and restrained white. Avoid sudden light increases; ramp changes over 2–3 weeks. Keep nutrients non-zero (NO3 5–15 ppm, PO4 0.03–0.10 ppm). Stable alkalinity (7.8–8.6 dKH), adequate iodine, and iron help maintain pigments. Too much flow or grit irritation also dulls color—use gentle, indirect flow.

My Blastomussa wellsi is receding from the base—what’s the likely cause and fix?

Common triggers: excess light, sharp alkalinity swings, vermetid snail irritation, or bacterial issues (brown jelly). Move to lower light/softer flow, stabilize KH and salinity, and inspect for vermetids to remove/epoxy over. Siphon necrotic tissue, perform an iodine dip, and if a head is compromised, cut it away with clean margins. Prevent polyp bailout by avoiding rapid salinity changes.

What’s the safest way to frag a Candy Apple Blastomussa colony?

Use a diamond saw/Dremel to cut the skeleton between corallites from the underside; avoid slicing through shared tissue. Chill the cut area with tank water to limit heat. Immediately rinse, then iodine dip. Heal in low light, gentle flow, and stable parameters for 1–2 weeks. Target feed small portions to support recovery. Handle by the plug/rock, not the polyp.

How should I space it relative to other LPS, and where does it grow best?

B. wellsi forms thick, dome-like heads with large daytime inflation and short sweepers. Give 2–3 inches clearance from aggressive LPS (favia, acanthastrea, euphyllia). It does well on a flat ledge or low rockwork; sand bed works if grit isn’t blowing onto tissue. Moderate, indirect flow prevents detritus buildup without abrading the polyps.

Candy Apple Blastomussa Coral

Blastomussa

Overview

Candy Apple Blastomussa Coral shows large, fleshy polyps with domed, clustered heads and distinct central mouths. Blastomussa wellsi is a large-polyp stony coral that prefers moderate light and low to moderate water flow. It relies on symbiotic algae for energy but benefits from occasional small meaty foods, which can support faster growth and stable color. Place on the sandbed or low rock with space around it, as sweeper tentacles can sting nearby corals.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate

Lighting Low–Moderate

Flow Moderate, indirect

Placement Low–Mid

Temperament Peaceful (2–3 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–10 dKH

Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped seafood (clam, shrimp), zooplankton, microplankton, coral-specific powdered foods (Reef Roids), marine snow

Care & Placement

Candy Apple Blastomussa Coral (Blastomussa wellsi) thrives with stable, moderate conditions. Provide low to moderate light (roughly 60–120 PAR) and indirect, gentle flow that keeps polyps swaying without folding. Place on the sandbed or lower rockwork, mid to low in the tank, and avoid sharp edges that can cut tissue. Space at least 3–4 inches from neighbors; it’s generally peaceful but can be damaged by stinging corals like Euphyllia, Favites/Favia, and Galaxea. Feed 1–3 times weekly with small meaty foods (mysis, enriched brine, finely minced seafood) or fine coral foods; target feed at night when tentacles are extended to improve growth and color. Keep temperature 76–80°F, pH 8.1–8.4, salinity 1.024–1.026, calcium 400–450 ppm, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, magnesium 1300–1400 ppm, nitrate 2–10 ppm, and phosphate 0.03–0.08 ppm. Use reliable test kits, a refractometer, and temperature control; prioritize stability over chasing numbers.Acclimate with a 30–45 minute drip, then light-acclimate by starting in shade and increasing exposure over 2–3 weeks; sudden bright light causes bleaching and tight retraction. Avoid direct, high flow that can strip tissue. Gently baste polyps weekly to prevent detritus buildup. Watch for recession from salinity swings, alkalinity dips, or starvation; correct slowly. If brown jelly appears, promptly siphon, perform an iodine or broad-spectrum coral dip, and improve flow and water quality. Quarantine new corals, maintain consistent maintenance, and perform gradual adjustments to keep this coral inflated, feeding, and expanding.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Candy Apple Blastomussa Coral

How do I keep the “candy apple” reds and greens from fading under LEDs?

Aim for moderate PAR (80–120) with strong blue/violet (420–470 nm) and restrained white. Avoid sudden light increases; ramp changes over 2–3 weeks. Keep nutrients non-zero (NO3 5–15 ppm, PO4 0.03–0.10 ppm). Stable alkalinity (7.8–8.6 dKH), adequate iodine, and iron help maintain pigments. Too much flow or grit irritation also dulls color—use gentle, indirect flow.
My Blastomussa wellsi is receding from the base—what’s the likely cause and fix?

Common triggers: excess light, sharp alkalinity swings, vermetid snail irritation, or bacterial issues (brown jelly). Move to lower light/softer flow, stabilize KH and salinity, and inspect for vermetids to remove/epoxy over. Siphon necrotic tissue, perform an iodine dip, and if a head is compromised, cut it away with clean margins. Prevent polyp bailout by avoiding rapid salinity changes.
What’s the safest way to frag a Candy Apple Blastomussa colony?

Use a diamond saw/Dremel to cut the skeleton between corallites from the underside; avoid slicing through shared tissue. Chill the cut area with tank water to limit heat. Immediately rinse, then iodine dip. Heal in low light, gentle flow, and stable parameters for 1–2 weeks. Target feed small portions to support recovery. Handle by the plug/rock, not the polyp.
How should I space it relative to other LPS, and where does it grow best?

B. wellsi forms thick, dome-like heads with large daytime inflation and short sweepers. Give 2–3 inches clearance from aggressive LPS (favia, acanthastrea, euphyllia). It does well on a flat ledge or low rockwork; sand bed works if grit isn’t blowing onto tissue. Moderate, indirect flow prevents detritus buildup without abrading the polyps.

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