My Blueberry Blastomussa inflated for weeks, then suddenly stayed deflated. What should I check first?

Start with stability: verify alkalinity (8–9 dKH), salinity (1.025–1.026), and temperature swings. Check phosphate isn’t stripped (aim 0.03–0.08 ppm) and nitrate 5–15 ppm. Inspect for vermetid snails or aiptasia irritating the tissue. Reduce flow if polyps wrinkle. If there’s tissue sloughing, perform an iodine dip and siphon detritus around the base to prevent bacterial issues.

Why is my “Blueberry” morph turning more green or brown under my lights?

B. wellsi from deeper water prefers moderate PAR (60–120) with strong blue spectrum. High white intensity or PAR >150 can wash colors and drive zooxanthellae density upward, browning the coral. Shift to a bluer schedule, lower intensity gradually (10–15% over 2–3 weeks), and maintain nutrients in the moderate range to preserve lilac/blue tones.

How can I feed Blastomussa wellsi for growth without causing bacterial film or algae?

Target feed at dusk when feeding response is strongest. Offer small portions of mysis, calanus, or fine reef foods once or twice weekly. Turn off flow 10–15 minutes, resume gently after capture. Avoid oversized pieces that rot. Rinse frozen foods, keep total weekly input modest, and increase export (skimming, filter floss) after feeding sessions.

What’s the safest way to frag a multi-head Blastomussa colony?

Use bone cutters or a band saw to cut the skeleton between heads, never through fleshy polyps. Make clean, decisive cuts, then place frags in low flow and moderate light. Dip in iodine or a broad-spectrum coral dip to reduce infection risk. Allow 1–2 weeks of recovery before increasing flow, and keep detritus off the cut edges.

Blueberry Blastomussa Coral

Blastomussa

Overview

Blueberry Blastomussa Coral shows fleshy, rounded polyps with contrasting blue to purple centers and thick rims. Scientifically known as Blastomussa wellsi Coral, it is a large-polyp stony coral that prefers low to moderate lighting and gentle, indirect water flow. It relies on symbiotic algae for energy but benefits from occasional small meaty feedings, which can improve growth and maintain color. Place it on a stable substrate with space from more aggressive corals, and avoid direct, high flow or intense light.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate

Lighting Low–Moderate

Flow Low-moderate

Placement Low–Mid

Temperament Peaceful (2–3 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–9 dKH

Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic (primary), mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, copepods, rotifers, cyclops, microplankton, finely minced seafood, coral-specific powdered foods

Care & Placement

Blueberry Blastomussa Coral (Blastomussa wellsi) prefers low to moderate light (PAR ~50–100) and gentle, indirect flow that keeps debris from settling on the fleshy polyps. Place on the sandbed or lower rockwork with 2–3 inches of space from neighbors; it’s generally peaceful but can be irritated or stung by aggressive LPS and some soft corals. Target-feed 1–2 times per week after lights dim with small meaty foods (mysis, finely chopped shrimp) or micro foods; light feeding supports growth and fuller polyp extension. Keep stable water: 76–79°F, salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1250–1350 ppm, nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.08 ppm. Test weekly, use a refractometer for salinity, and maintain stability with an ATO and reliable heater controller. Acclimate by temperature matching and a 30–45 minute drip; dip before introduction to remove pests. Light-acclimate over 1–2 weeks with shade or mesh to prevent bleaching. Watch for tissue recession (often from too much flow, sudden parameter swings, or pests); adjust placement, stabilize alkalinity, and siphon detritus. If on sand, set the frag on a small tile to keep grit off the tissue. Avoid direct blasting flow and intense light hotspots; moderate, stable conditions reward you with full, inflated polyps and steady growth.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Blueberry Blastomussa Coral

My Blueberry Blastomussa inflated for weeks, then suddenly stayed deflated. What should I check first?

Start with stability: verify alkalinity (8–9 dKH), salinity (1.025–1.026), and temperature swings. Check phosphate isn’t stripped (aim 0.03–0.08 ppm) and nitrate 5–15 ppm. Inspect for vermetid snails or aiptasia irritating the tissue. Reduce flow if polyps wrinkle. If there’s tissue sloughing, perform an iodine dip and siphon detritus around the base to prevent bacterial issues.
Why is my “Blueberry” morph turning more green or brown under my lights?

B. wellsi from deeper water prefers moderate PAR (60–120) with strong blue spectrum. High white intensity or PAR >150 can wash colors and drive zooxanthellae density upward, browning the coral. Shift to a bluer schedule, lower intensity gradually (10–15% over 2–3 weeks), and maintain nutrients in the moderate range to preserve lilac/blue tones.
How can I feed Blastomussa wellsi for growth without causing bacterial film or algae?

Target feed at dusk when feeding response is strongest. Offer small portions of mysis, calanus, or fine reef foods once or twice weekly. Turn off flow 10–15 minutes, resume gently after capture. Avoid oversized pieces that rot. Rinse frozen foods, keep total weekly input modest, and increase export (skimming, filter floss) after feeding sessions.
What’s the safest way to frag a multi-head Blastomussa colony?

Use bone cutters or a band saw to cut the skeleton between heads, never through fleshy polyps. Make clean, decisive cuts, then place frags in low flow and moderate light. Dip in iodine or a broad-spectrum coral dip to reduce infection risk. Allow 1–2 weeks of recovery before increasing flow, and keep detritus off the cut edges.

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