Blue Macaw Zoanthids Coral

Blue Macaw Zoanthids Coral

Overview

Blue Macaw Zoanthids Coral has small button-like polyps with vivid blue centers and contrasting skirts. Zoanthus sp., a soft colonial polyp coral, does well under moderate light and low to moderate water flow. It is photosynthetic via symbiotic algae but will accept fine particulate or small meaty foods, which can speed growth and deepen color. Place on an isolated rock to prevent spreading onto other corals, and handle with care when fragging.

Quick Facts

Care Easy
Lighting Low–Moderate
Flow Moderate
Placement Low–Mid
Temperament Peaceful to semi-aggressive (2–3 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–82°F
pH 8.1–8.4
Salinity 1.025–1.026
Calcium 400–440 ppm
AlkAlkalinity 8–10 dKH
Magnesium 1250–1350 ppm
Feeding photosynthetic, microplankton, phytoplankton, zooplankton, rotifers, copepods, baby brine shrimp, cyclops, powdered coral foods, amino acid supplements

Care & Placement

Blue Macaw Zoanthids Coral (Zoanthus sp.) thrive in stable, clean systems with moderate light and flow. Aim for 80–150 PAR and a random, moderate current that keeps debris from settling on the mat while preventing polyps from being blasted shut. Place frags low to mid in the tank and give them room; they spread quickly and can overrun slower neighbors. Keep distance from aggressive stony corals with long sweepers. Parameters: temperature 75–79°F (24–26°C), salinity 1.024–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1250–1350 ppm, nitrate 2–10 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.10 ppm. Test weekly; use a refractometer and reliable kits. Primarily photosynthetic, they benefit from occasional target feeding of fine meaty foods or reef roids 1–2 times weekly to support growth and color.Acclimate with a 30–45 minute drip, then light acclimate by starting in lower light and moving up over 1–2 weeks or using a screen. Dip new pieces to remove nudibranchs, sundial snails, and other pests. Handle with gloves and eye protection due to palytoxin risk. Signs of trouble include long-term closed polyps, “melting,” bleaching, or edge recession. Check for pests at night, increase flow slightly to reduce film and algae, maintain gentle but not sterile nutrients, and correct swings in salinity or alkalinity. For spreading control, mount on an isolated rock “island.” Generally peaceful, they’re good with other soft corals and small-polyp stonies when given space.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Blue Macaw Zoanthids Coral

  • Why do my Blue Macaw Zoanthids lose their bright ring colors under high PAR?
    Many Zoanthus morphs shift pigments under intense light, trading fluorescence for protective browning. Aim for moderate PAR (80–150) with a blue‑leaning spectrum and gentle acclimation. Maintain measurable nutrients (NO3 5–15 ppm, PO4 0.03–0.1). If colors faded, reduce PAR 20–30%, extend blue photoperiod, and stabilize nutrients for 2–4 weeks before judging recovery.
  • They’re open but not spreading—what subtle bottlenecks slow growth in Zoanthus sp.?
    Growth often stalls from ultra‑low nutrients, too‑clean water, or low micro‑trace availability. Keep nitrate and phosphate detectable, run carbon lightly (not aggressively), and maintain iodine via regular water changes or careful dosing. Moderate, random flow that ruffles skirts helps. Spot feed fine foods weekly. Avoid rapid alkalinity swings and stray copper from old pumps.
  • What’s the safest way to frag this morph without triggering a melt?
    Use a sharp blade to cut the mat between polyps, not through oral discs. Wear protection; mucus can irritate. Rinse frags in tank water, then dip (iodine or coral dip) 3–5 minutes. Mount on clean plugs with gel glue, ensuring tissue contact. Provide low‑moderate light and steady flow for 7–10 days before returning to normal placement.
  • How do I handle “zoa pox” or unexplained shrinking in this morph?
    First, stabilize parameters and increase aeration/flow. Perform a broad‑spectrum dip (per instructions) and consider a Furan‑2 dip regimen for suspected pox. Remove detritus under the mat and check for pests (sundial snails, zoa‑eating nudibranchs, spiders). Run fresh carbon to reduce chemical warfare from leathers. Avoid large water chemistry corrections; use small, frequent adjustments.