Blue Eye Blondie Zoanthids Coral

Blue Eye Blondie Zoanthids Coral

Overview

Blue Eye Blondie Zoanthids Coral shows bright blue-centered polyps with contrasting skirts. Classified as Zoanthus sp., this is a colonial soft polyp coral that forms mats; it prefers moderate light and moderate water flow. It is photosynthetic through symbiotic algae but will accept fine particulate or small meaty foods, which can improve growth and maintain color. Place on an isolated rock to manage spreading, and handle with care, as zoanthids may contain toxins and can irritate skin and eyes.

Quick Facts

Care Easy
Lighting Moderate
Flow Moderate
Placement Low–Mid
Temperament Semi-aggressive (may overgrow neighbors; allow spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–82°F
pH 8.1–8.4
Salinity 1.025–1.026
Calcium 400–450 ppm
AlkAlkalinity 8–10 dKH
Magnesium 1250–1350 ppm
Feeding photosynthetic (primary), phytoplankton, zooplankton, rotifers, baby brine shrimp, cyclops, oyster eggs, microplankton, powdered coral foods (e.g., Reef-Roids), marine snow

Care & Placement

Blue Eye Blondie Zoanthids Coral (Zoanthus sp.) thrive under stable, nutrient-positive reef conditions. Provide moderate light (PAR ~80–150); start low and slowly increase over 2–3 weeks to avoid bleaching. Aim for moderate, varied flow that keeps detritus from settling while allowing polyps to extend; too much direct flow causes closed or misshapen heads. Feed 1–2x weekly with fine particle foods (reef roids, powdered zooplankton) or occasional amino acids to support growth and color, but avoid heavy spot feeding that can foul water. Target parameters: temperature 24–26°C (75–79°F), salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1250–1350 ppm, nitrate 2–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.10 ppm. Test weekly with reliable kits and a refractometer; avoid rapid shifts, especially in salinity and alkalinity.Place frags low to mid in the tank with room to spread; mount on an isolated rock “island” if you want to control growth. Keep several inches from stinging LPS or aggressive soft corals. Generally peaceful but can overgrow neighbors. Acclimate via drip (30–45 minutes) and light acclimation using screen or reduced intensity. Dip new pieces to remove pests (zoa-eating nudibranchs, sundial snails). Common issues: closed polyps from pests, abrupt parameter changes, or excessive light/flow; recession from low nutrients or dirty, low-flow areas; bleaching from sudden light increase. Handle with care and good ventilation when fragging or brushing, and wear gloves and eye protection.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Blue Eye Blondie Zoanthids Coral

  • How can I keep the “blue eye” center vivid rather than fading to green or brown?
    Maintain moderate PAR (80–150) with a strong blue spectrum and gradual acclimation to higher light. Keep nutrients non-zero (NO3 5–15 ppm, PO4 0.03–0.1 ppm); ultra‑low nutrients wash colors. Stable alkalinity (8–9 dKH) and salinity help. Avoid heavy white lighting. Trace elements like iodine/iron influence hues, but only dose if tested. Good flow keeps skirts crisp and deters film algae that dulls centers.
  • My polyps are stretching with long, thin stalks or staying closed—what’s the likely cause?
    Stretching suggests insufficient light; closing often points to pests or irritation. Inspect at night for zoa‑eating nudibranchs, sundial snails, and spider‑like arthropods. Perform a coral dip (iodine-based or trusted commercial) and rinse well. Increase random, moderate flow to prevent detritus buildup. Check for film algae at the base and stabilise parameters; swings in salinity or temperature commonly trigger prolonged closing.
  • Do Blue Eye Blondies tolerate very high light like some acros?
    They prefer moderate light. Under excessive PAR, skirts shorten, centers can bleach, and polyps may “umbrella.” Start low, raise 10–15% weekly, and watch polyp posture: open, flat polyps with defined skirts indicate a good spot. If they shrink midday but open in the morning/evening, intensity is high—reduce or increase blue ratio. Keep flow moderate to strong but indirect to avoid retraction.
  • What’s a safe way to frag this morph without losing polyps?
    Wear gloves/eye protection and work in a ventilated area due to potential toxins. Cut the mat between polyps on a clean surface, avoiding slicing through oral discs. Mount to small plugs or rubble with gel cyanoacrylate. Provide low‑to‑moderate light and steady flow for 5–7 days to heal, then resume normal light. An iodine dip post‑cut helps prevent infection. Avoid shading the cut edge with putty.