Why do the neon “eyes” on my Alien Invasion Chalice fade or the base turn muddy brown under LEDs?

This morph prefers lower PAR (around 75–150) with strong blue/UV. Too much white light or sudden PAR increases wash pigment and stress the tissue. Keep NO3 2–10 ppm and PO4 0.03–0.1 to maintain fluorescence; ultra-low nutrients dull colors. Increase light gradually, stabilize alkalinity 8–9 dKH, and avoid frequent moves. A short “acclimation” photo period and mild blue-heavy spectrum help colors rebound.

How aggressive is Echinophyllia sp. at night, and how much space should I give it?

At night it extends long sweepers and mesenterial filaments that can melt neighbors several inches away. Give 3–6 inches clearance, more down-current. Avoid placing fleshy LPS, micromussa, or zoas directly in its path. Use indirect flow so tentacles don’t drape onto nearby corals. Running carbon and doing regular water changes helps with chemical warfare from soft corals.

It’s growing into a plate and shading itself—where should I place it to avoid dead spots and detritus buildup?

Mount on a lower rock ledge or isolated island with moderate, indirect flow so the scalloped rim stays clean. Periodically baste under the plate to keep detritus from festering and causing recession. Plan for shadowing; angle the frag so light reaches the developing underside, or leave room to shift the colony a few inches as it fans outward.

Any tips for fragging this chalice without losing color or tissue at the cut?

Use a diamond saw and cut between eyes, avoiding mouths. Rinse fragments to remove bone dust, then dip in iodine. Mount on clean discs with minimal glue around the edge so tissue can plate over. Heal in low light (50–75 PAR), stable nutrients, and gentle flow for 1–2 weeks before returning to display levels. Don’t stack frags; edge contact triggers localized warfare.

Alien Invasion Chalice Coral

Overview

Alien Invasion Chalice Coral features a flattened, wrinkled plate with bright green eyes on a darker base. Echinophyllia sp. is a plating LPS coral that prefers low to moderate light and gentle to moderate water flow. It is photosynthetic via symbiotic algae but benefits from occasional small meaty feedings to support growth and color. Provide space from other corals due to nighttime sweeper tentacles, and place on stable rock with some shade if light is strong.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate

Lighting Low–Moderate

Flow Low–Moderate

Placement Low–Mid

Temperament Aggressive (6 inches+ spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–9.5 dKH

Magnesium 1250–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic, zooplankton, microplankton, rotifers, copepods, finely chopped mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, coral-specific powdered foods (e.g., Reef-Roids)

Care & Placement

Alien Invasion Chalice Coral (Echinophyllia sp.) thrives with stable, moderate conditions. Provide low to moderate lighting (PAR ~75–150); start on the dim side and increase slowly over 1–2 weeks to avoid bleaching. Use gentle, cross-flow that keeps detritus from settling on the surface without blasting tissue. Target feed 2–3 times weekly after lights out with small meaty foods (mysis, chopped krill) or fine coral foods; feeding supports growth and color. Keep temperature 24–26°C/75–79°F, salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, calcium 400–450 ppm, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, magnesium 1250–1400 ppm, nitrate 2–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.10 ppm. Test weekly with reliable kits, verify salinity by refractometer, and avoid rapid swings—this coral is sensitive to instability.Place low to mid in the tank, on sand or a stable rock ledge with the plate horizontal. Leave 3–6 inches of space; chalices can extend stingers at night and can both sting and be stung by neighbors. Acclimate with a coral dip and light acclimation (screens or reduced intensity) after drip acclimation. Watch for tissue recession along the rim—often tied to alkalinity swings, pest irritation, or too much light. If bleaching occurs, lower light and slightly raise nutrients; if brown jelly or rapid loss appears, increase flow, perform an iodine dip, and frag healthy margins. Keep flow angled to prevent debris traps, glue edges securely to stop tipping, and maintain consistent husbandry for long-term growth.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Alien Invasion Chalice Coral

Why do the neon “eyes” on my Alien Invasion Chalice fade or the base turn muddy brown under LEDs?

This morph prefers lower PAR (around 75–150) with strong blue/UV. Too much white light or sudden PAR increases wash pigment and stress the tissue. Keep NO3 2–10 ppm and PO4 0.03–0.1 to maintain fluorescence; ultra-low nutrients dull colors. Increase light gradually, stabilize alkalinity 8–9 dKH, and avoid frequent moves. A short “acclimation” photo period and mild blue-heavy spectrum help colors rebound.
How aggressive is Echinophyllia sp. at night, and how much space should I give it?

At night it extends long sweepers and mesenterial filaments that can melt neighbors several inches away. Give 3–6 inches clearance, more down-current. Avoid placing fleshy LPS, micromussa, or zoas directly in its path. Use indirect flow so tentacles don’t drape onto nearby corals. Running carbon and doing regular water changes helps with chemical warfare from soft corals.
It’s growing into a plate and shading itself—where should I place it to avoid dead spots and detritus buildup?

Mount on a lower rock ledge or isolated island with moderate, indirect flow so the scalloped rim stays clean. Periodically baste under the plate to keep detritus from festering and causing recession. Plan for shadowing; angle the frag so light reaches the developing underside, or leave room to shift the colony a few inches as it fans outward.
Any tips for fragging this chalice without losing color or tissue at the cut?

Use a diamond saw and cut between eyes, avoiding mouths. Rinse fragments to remove bone dust, then dip in iodine. Mount on clean discs with minimal glue around the edge so tissue can plate over. Heal in low light (50–75 PAR), stable nutrients, and gentle flow for 1–2 weeks before returning to display levels. Don’t stack frags; edge contact triggers localized warfare.