Why does my ACI Mike the Mycedium Chalice Coral grow into cupped plates instead of a flat pad?

Mycedium elephantotus tends to build foliose plates that tilt into the flow, directing food to its corallites. If flow is too laminar, the rim can recede; if too low, the plate may trap detritus. Use strong, random flow and mount the frag slightly vertical or on an edge to encourage natural cupping without collecting waste.

My specimen’s colors dulled after moving to brighter light. Is that normal for this species?

Yes. M. elephantotus often shifts pigments under higher PAR, trading fluorescence for protective browning or teal tones. Aim for moderate PAR (~80–150) with blue-heavy spectrum. Increase intensity slowly over 2–3 weeks. Slightly higher nutrients (not ultra-low) and stable alkalinity help maintain saturation without washing out detail in the ridges and mouths.

The coral shows tiny pits and slow edge recession, yet parameters look fine. What should I check?

This species can stall when phosphate bottoms out or when vermetid snails irritate the tissue along ridges. Keep PO4 around 0.03–0.08 ppm, NO3 5–15 ppm. Inspect for vermetids and cut their tubes. Avoid direct, constant flow on the rim. If damage occurs, iodine or broad-spectrum dips help; stabilize alkalinity 8–9 dKH.

How do I frag M. elephantotus without causing a dieback along the plate?

Use a wet diamond saw and cut between ridges, avoiding corallite centers. Make clean, single passes—don’t crush. Allow a 2–3 mm buffer of skeleton outside tissue. After cutting, dip, mount on an edge to promote upward plating, and provide gentle flow for 3–5 days before returning to normal. Feed lightly at night to speed recovery.

ACI Mike the Mycedium Chalice Coral

Chalice LPS

Overview

ACI Mike the Mycedium Chalice Coral has a ridged, plating surface with raised eyes and scalloped edges. Mycedium elephantotus is a large-polyp stony chalice that forms plates or encrusting sheets; it prefers moderate light and low to moderate, indirect flow. It is photosynthetic with symbiotic algae but accepts small meaty foods or coral foods, which can improve growth and color. Place on a stable ledge or flat rock with space around it, as sweeper tentacles can sting nearby corals.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate

Lighting Low–Moderate

Flow Low-Moderate

Placement Low

Temperament Aggressive (6+ inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–9 dKH

Magnesium 1250–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic, minced mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, copepods, cyclops, rotifers, zooplankton, reef roids, marine snow, coral-specific microplankton

Care & Placement

ACI Mike the Mycedium Chalice Coral (Mycedium elephantotus) prefers stable, nutrient-rich reef conditions with moderate lighting and flow. Target PAR 75–150; acclimate to light slowly using a screen or reduced photoperiod to avoid bleaching. Provide moderate, indirect flow to keep detritus from settling without lifting tissue; use a turkey baster to blow off debris weekly. Feed 2–3x per week at dusk with fine meaty foods (reef roids, cyclops, minced mysis) when feeding polyps are extended; this supports growth and color. Keep temperature 75–78°F (24–26°C), salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1300–1400 ppm, nitrate 2–10 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.08 ppm. Mycedium is sensitive to rapid alkalinity and salinity swings—test weekly and adjust slowly.Place low to mid level on a flat, stable rock so the plating edge can grow outward; avoid sand contact that can abrade tissue. Allow 3–4 inches of space from neighbors; semi‑aggressive sweepers can reach 1–2 inches at night, and it doesn’t compete well against very aggressive Euphyllia or Galaxea. Quarantine and dip before adding. Drip acclimate 30–45 minutes. Signs of stress include paling/bleaching (reduce light, slightly raise nutrients), edge recession (increase stable flow, siphon detritus, verify ALK stability), or brown jelly (frag away affected areas and improve sanitation). Use a PAR meter if possible, and observe the tissue edge—plump, smooth margins indicate good health.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the ACI Mike the Mycedium Chalice Coral

Why does my ACI Mike the Mycedium Chalice Coral grow into cupped plates instead of a flat pad?

Mycedium elephantotus tends to build foliose plates that tilt into the flow, directing food to its corallites. If flow is too laminar, the rim can recede; if too low, the plate may trap detritus. Use strong, random flow and mount the frag slightly vertical or on an edge to encourage natural cupping without collecting waste.
My specimen’s colors dulled after moving to brighter light. Is that normal for this species?

Yes. M. elephantotus often shifts pigments under higher PAR, trading fluorescence for protective browning or teal tones. Aim for moderate PAR (~80–150) with blue-heavy spectrum. Increase intensity slowly over 2–3 weeks. Slightly higher nutrients (not ultra-low) and stable alkalinity help maintain saturation without washing out detail in the ridges and mouths.
The coral shows tiny pits and slow edge recession, yet parameters look fine. What should I check?

This species can stall when phosphate bottoms out or when vermetid snails irritate the tissue along ridges. Keep PO4 around 0.03–0.08 ppm, NO3 5–15 ppm. Inspect for vermetids and cut their tubes. Avoid direct, constant flow on the rim. If damage occurs, iodine or broad-spectrum dips help; stabilize alkalinity 8–9 dKH.
How do I frag M. elephantotus without causing a dieback along the plate?

Use a wet diamond saw and cut between ridges, avoiding corallite centers. Make clean, single passes—don’t crush. Allow a 2–3 mm buffer of skeleton outside tissue. After cutting, dip, mount on an edge to promote upward plating, and provide gentle flow for 3–5 days before returning to normal. Feed lightly at night to speed recovery.