Why do my ACI Lorax Zoanthids shrink or stay closed after looking fine the first week?

They often react to rapid light or nutrient changes. Acclimate to 80–150 PAR with strong blue/UV and moderate, indirect flow. Keep detectable nutrients (nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm). Inspect at night for pests. If you see pox-like bumps, a Furan-2 bath can help. For general irritation, try an iodine dip, reduce white light, and stabilize alkalinity and salinity.

How can I keep the Lorax coloration vivid without browning or washing out?

Prioritize 420–470 nm spectrum with modest whites and stable nutrients. Too low nutrients dulls color; too high grows film algae that irritates skirts. Maintain nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm, and steady alkalinity 8–9 dKH. Trace balance matters—avoid heavy dosing; small, regular water changes typically suffice. Increase blue intensity gradually over weeks to avoid photobleaching and reduced polyp extension.

What’s a safe, high-keep propagation method for this Zoanthus sp.?

Wear eye/skin protection and work in ventilated areas. Slice the mat between polyps, not through mouths. Rinse and dip in iodine, then mount on plugs using a thin glue line around the mat’s edge to prevent lift. Heal in lower light and gentle flow for 5–7 days. Avoid heavy feeding during healing; resume normal light slowly once full extension returns.

Which pests target Lorax zoas, and what’s the best eradication plan?

Zoa-eating nudibranchs, sundial snails, and zoa spiders are the main threats. Look for bite scallops on skirts, tiny egg spirals, or stuttering polyp extension. Manually remove adults, then perform repeated dips (every 3–4 days for 2 weeks) to catch hatch cycles. Night inspections help. A wrasse (e.g., Melanurus) can add pressure, but dips and quarantine are the backbone.

ACI Lorax Zoanthids Coral

Zoanthids

Overview

ACI Lorax Zoanthids Coral displays small button-like polyps with a contrasting disc and skirt. Classified as Zoanthus sp., it is a soft colonial polyp that forms mats and prefers moderate light with moderate, variable water flow. It is photosynthetic via symbiotic algae but accepts occasional small meaty or planktonic foods, which can support faster growth and stronger color. Place on an isolated rock to control spread and keep distance from aggressive neighbors; handle with care and avoid contact with eyes and mouth.

Quick Facts

Care Easy

Lighting Moderate

Flow Moderate, indirect

Placement Low–Mid

Temperament Semi-aggressive (2–4 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 380–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–9 dKH

Magnesium 1250–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic (primary), dissolved organics, amino acids, phytoplankton, rotifers, copepods/cyclops, powdered coral foods (e.g., Reef-Roids), marine snow

Care & Placement

ACI Lorax Zoanthids Coral (Zoanthus sp.) thrive with stable, nutrient-rich reef conditions and gentle handling. Provide moderate light (80–150 PAR) with a blue-leaning spectrum; start low and ramp up over 1–2 weeks to avoid bleaching or “melting.” Aim for moderate, indirect flow that keeps polyps moving and prevents detritus buildup without blasting them closed. Feed 1–2 times weekly with fine particulate foods (reef roids, powdered zoa blends) or amino acids; while photosynthetic, periodic feeding supports growth and color. Target parameters: temperature 24–26°C (75–79°F), pH 8.1–8.4, salinity 1.025–1.026 (35 ppt), calcium 400–450 ppm, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, magnesium 1280–1380 ppm, nitrate 2–10 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.10 ppm. Test weekly and adjust slowly; Zoanthus dislike sudden swings, especially in alkalinity and salinity.Place frags low to mid in the tank with room to spread; mount on a small “island” rock to control growth. Keep 3–4 inches from neighbors and away from aggressive stingers (e.g., sweeper-tentacled LPS). Generally peaceful, but can overgrow slower corals. Acclimate by drip (30–45 minutes), then dip in an iodine-based coral dip to remove pests (zoa-eating nudibranchs, sundial snails); rinse well. Wear gloves and eye protection when handling due to palytoxin risk. Troubleshooting: closed polyps often signal too much light/flow, pests, or irritants; bleaching points to excess light or low nutrients; recession suggests unstable alkalinity or contamination. Stable parameters, moderate light/flow, and periodic feeding keep colonies open and growing.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the ACI Lorax Zoanthids Coral

Why do my ACI Lorax Zoanthids shrink or stay closed after looking fine the first week?

They often react to rapid light or nutrient changes. Acclimate to 80–150 PAR with strong blue/UV and moderate, indirect flow. Keep detectable nutrients (nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm). Inspect at night for pests. If you see pox-like bumps, a Furan-2 bath can help. For general irritation, try an iodine dip, reduce white light, and stabilize alkalinity and salinity.
How can I keep the Lorax coloration vivid without browning or washing out?

Prioritize 420–470 nm spectrum with modest whites and stable nutrients. Too low nutrients dulls color; too high grows film algae that irritates skirts. Maintain nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm, and steady alkalinity 8–9 dKH. Trace balance matters—avoid heavy dosing; small, regular water changes typically suffice. Increase blue intensity gradually over weeks to avoid photobleaching and reduced polyp extension.
What’s a safe, high-keep propagation method for this Zoanthus sp.?

Wear eye/skin protection and work in ventilated areas. Slice the mat between polyps, not through mouths. Rinse and dip in iodine, then mount on plugs using a thin glue line around the mat’s edge to prevent lift. Heal in lower light and gentle flow for 5–7 days. Avoid heavy feeding during healing; resume normal light slowly once full extension returns.
Which pests target Lorax zoas, and what’s the best eradication plan?

Zoa-eating nudibranchs, sundial snails, and zoa spiders are the main threats. Look for bite scallops on skirts, tiny egg spirals, or stuttering polyp extension. Manually remove adults, then perform repeated dips (every 3–4 days for 2 weeks) to catch hatch cycles. Night inspections help. A wrasse (e.g., Melanurus) can add pressure, but dips and quarantine are the backbone.

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