Lorax Zoanthids Coral

ACI Lorax Zoanthids Coral

Sale price  $74.99 Regular price $99.99
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Lorax Zoanthids Coral

ACI Lorax Zoanthids Coral

Sale price  $74.99 Regular price $99.99
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Grow your ACI Lorax Zoanthids with:

Quick Specs

Care Level
Shop live corals by care level: Easy
Flow
Shop live corals by flow: Moderate
Lighting
Shop live corals by lighting: Moderate
Placement
Shop live corals by placement: Low–Mid
Growth Rate
Shop live corals by growth rate: Moderate
Temperament
Semi-aggressive(2–4 inches spacing)
Feeding
Photosynthetic(primary), dissolved organics, amino acids, phytoplankton, rotifers, copepods/cyclops, powdered coral foods (e.g., Reef-Roids), marine snow
Description
Photo is of mother colony. Frags will be 2-3 polyps.

Aquacultured Zoanthids and Palythoa Coral

Zoanthids are among the most popular corals in the reef hobby, admired for fluorescent color, bold patterns, and fast growth. These soft corals form colonial mats of polyps that can carpet rockwork, and varieties such as Rastas, Eagle Eyes, and Pandoras show the group's range. Their adaptability makes zoa coral a favorite for reefers at every experience level.

Zoanthids are closely related to palythoa. The two look similar, but palythoa species tend to have larger polyps and form thicker mats. Palythoa coral care generally follows the same guidance below. We farm and propagate our zoanthids for sale from healthy mother colonies in our Florida aquaculture facility.

Handle With Care: Palytoxin

Some palythoa and zoanthid species can produce palytoxin, a potent toxin that can be harmful to humans and pets. Always wear gloves and eye protection when handling these corals, practice good hygiene afterward, and never expose them to high heat, which can release toxins into the air.

Zoanthid and Palythoa Care at a Glance

Parameter Recommended Range
Care level Beginner-friendly and hardy
Lighting Moderate, 75–150 PAR
Water flow Moderate and indirect
Temperature 75–80°F
Salinity 1.024–1.026
Calcium 380–450 ppm
Alkalinity 8–9.5 dKH
Magnesium 1250–1350 ppm
Nitrate 5–15 ppm
Phosphate <0.10 ppm
Origin Indo-Pacific; aquacultured by Top Shelf Aquatics

Water Chemistry

Zoanthids tolerate minor parameter fluctuations better than some corals, but stability is still the key to long-term growth and color. Test regularly and make small adjustments.

Lighting

In the wild, zoanthids live in shallow reef flats, lagoons, and rocky outcrops around Indonesia, Fiji, and the Great Barrier Reef, where light is plentiful. In the aquarium they do well across a wide range of lighting, with 75–150 PAR as the ideal. Some varieties handle high light and color up even more under it, but most need a slow transition to avoid stress or bleaching. We grow ours under a combination of EcoTech Marine Radions and metal halides.

Water Flow

Moderate, indirect flow keeps debris off the polyps and delivers nutrients while letting the colony stay open and fully extended. Flow that is too strong can cause polyps to close. We use EcoTech Marine MP pumps, Reef Octopus OCTO Pulse, and Sicce XStream wavemakers to create adjustable flow, and we place colonies where movement is steady but gentle.

What We Feed Our Zoanthids

Zoanthids get most of their energy from symbiotic zooxanthellae, and they also capture dissolved nutrients and fine plankton from the water column. We feed our exclusive Royal Flush phytoplankton blend (Tisochrysis, Rhodomonas, and Tetraselmis), and Reef Roids and Benepets a few times a week also support health and color. Broadcast feed, or lightly target-feed the colony with a turkey baster, and pause flow for about 10–15 minutes so the polyps can feed.

Coloration and Growth

Colors range from neon greens and deep blues to pinks and bright orange zoanthids, often with intricate patterns. Lighting spectrum, water quality, and feeding all influence color. Nutrient-rich foods, amino acids, and trace elements such as iodine and iron support pigmentation. In good conditions, a small frag grows into a dense mat that adds texture and color to open rockwork.

Common Challenges

  • Overgrowth: colonies spread quickly and can overrun neighboring corals; trim and place them strategically
  • Pests: nudibranchs and zoa-eating spiders are common threats; inspect and dip new additions
  • Light sensitivity: acclimate gradually before moving colonies into higher light
  • Polyp retraction: excessive flow or debris buildup can keep polyps closed

How We Farm Our Zoanthid Frags

Our team of marine biologists monitors water parameters across more than 30,000 gallons of farmable water volume. We frag healthy mother colonies into manageable pieces, mount each frag on a plug with reef-safe glue or epoxy, and grow them out under Radions and metal halides with dynamic flow.

How to Acclimate Zoanthids and Palythoa

  1. Temperature: float the bag in your aquarium for 15–20 minutes to equalize temperature.
  2. Drip acclimation (optional): a precautionary step to introduce your tank water gradually; zoanthids may adapt to your system more slowly with this method.
  3. Lighting: start the colony in a lower-light area, or reduce intensity, then increase light gradually over 2–3 weeks.
  4. Placement: glue or epoxy the frag to rockwork or a ledge with moderate, indirect flow, and watch its behavior and color while it adjusts.
FAQs Common questions about ACI Lorax Zoanthids Coral

Why do my ACI Lorax Zoanthids shrink or stay closed after looking fine the first week?

They often react to rapid light or nutrient changes. Acclimate to 80–150 PAR with strong blue/UV and moderate, indirect flow. Keep detectable nutrients (nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm). Inspect at night for pests. If you see pox-like bumps, a Furan-2 bath can help. For general irritation, try an iodine dip, reduce white light, and stabilize alkalinity and salinity.

How can I keep the Lorax coloration vivid without browning or washing out?

Prioritize 420–470 nm spectrum with modest whites and stable nutrients. Too low nutrients dulls color; too high grows film algae that irritates skirts. Maintain nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm, and steady alkalinity 8–9 dKH. Trace balance matters—avoid heavy dosing; small, regular water changes typically suffice. Increase blue intensity gradually over weeks to avoid photobleaching and reduced polyp extension.

What’s a safe, high-keep propagation method for this Zoanthus sp.?

Wear eye/skin protection and work in ventilated areas. Slice the mat between polyps, not through mouths. Rinse and dip in iodine, then mount on plugs using a thin glue line around the mat’s edge to prevent lift. Heal in lower light and gentle flow for 5–7 days. Avoid heavy feeding during healing; resume normal light slowly once full extension returns.

Which pests target Lorax zoas, and what’s the best eradication plan?

Zoa-eating nudibranchs, sundial snails, and zoa spiders are the main threats. Look for bite scallops on skirts, tiny egg spirals, or stuttering polyp extension. Manually remove adults, then perform repeated dips (every 3–4 days for 2 weeks) to catch hatch cycles. Night inspections help. A wrasse (e.g., Melanurus) can add pressure, but dips and quarantine are the backbone.
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SKU: CTOxLoraxZoa

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