Highlighter Frogspawn Coral

Highlighter Frogspawn Coral

Frogspawn

Overview

Highlighter Frogspawn Coral shows branching heads with fluorescent green, multi-tipped tentacles. Euphyllia divisa is a large-polyp stony coral with a branching skeleton; it prefers moderate light and gentle to moderate, indirect water flow. It relies on symbiotic algae for most nutrition but accepts occasional small meaty foods, which can support faster growth and maintain color. Place it where its long sweeper tentacles have room, keeping several inches from other corals to prevent stings.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate
Lighting Moderate
Flow Moderate, indirect
Placement Mid–Low
Temperament Semi-aggressive (6–8 inches clearance)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F
pH 8.1–8.4
Salinity 1.025–1.026
Calcium 400–450 ppm
AlkAlkalinity 8–10 dKH
Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm
Feeding photosynthetic (primary), mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped shrimp or clam, zooplankton, microplankton, coral-specific powdered foods, marine snow

Care & Placement

Highlighter Frogspawn Coral (Euphyllia divisa) thrives with stable, moderate conditions. Provide moderate light (PAR ~80–150) with diffuse placement to avoid sudden intensity; acclimate by lowering light 30–40% for a week or using screen layers. Aim for gentle, varied flow that keeps polyps swaying without folding over; this limits detritus and tissue damage. Feed small meaty foods (mysis, LPS pellets) 1–2× weekly; target feed at low flow to improve polyp extension and growth. Maintain temp 24–26°C (75–79°F), salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 420–460 ppm, magnesium 1300–1400 ppm, nitrate 2–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.10 ppm. Test weekly and dose to keep swings minimal; this coral is sensitive to rapid changes, low alkalinity, and heavy metals.Place mid to lower in the tank, on stable rock with room to expand. Leave 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) from neighbors; night sweepers can reach several inches and will sting most corals. Best kept with peaceful fish and invertebrates; avoid nippers (butterflies, some angels) and crabs that pick at tissue. Acclimate by drip (30–45 min) and dip new heads to reduce pests. Common issues: pale or receding tissue from excess light/flow or low nutrients; fix by reducing intensity, smoothing flow, and raising nitrate/phosphate into range. Sudden bleaching points to light shock—step down intensity. Brown jelly disease requires immediate removal of affected heads, an iodine dip, improved flow, and stable parameters.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Highlighter Frogspawn Coral

  • Why does my Highlighter Frogspawn lose neon color under bright whites, and how can I keep it glowing?
    High-intensity white-heavy lighting can wash out fluorescent proteins. Give it a blue-leaning spectrum (peaks around 420–460 nm), moderate PAR (120–180), and stable nutrients (NO3 5–15 ppm, PO4 0.03–0.1). Avoid sudden photoperiod changes; ramp LEDs slowly. Adequate magnesium and balanced trace levels help, but don’t chase bottles—prioritize stability and regular water changes.
  • Is my Euphyllia divisa safe to frag, and how do I tell branching from wall growth?
    Check the skeleton. Branching forms have distinct, cylindrical branches between heads; wall forms grow as continuous valleys and are risky to cut. For branching, use bone cutters or a diamond saw between heads, dip in iodine, and place in low-to-moderate flow to heal. Avoid fragging wall specimens; they often suffer recession or infection.
  • My frogspawn sends out long sweepers at night—how far should I space neighbors, including other Euphyllia?
    Allow 6–8 inches around it; sweepers can extend surprisingly far in low light. It usually coexists with frogspawn and many hammers, but torches are more aggressive and can win stinging contests. Keep vermetid snails and bristleworms away from the base, as irritation triggers longer sweepers. If conflict occurs, redirect flow to reduce direct contact.
  • What causes sudden tissue bailout on one head while others look fine?
    Acute stress—rapid salinity or temperature swing, severe alkalinity drop, or direct flow blasting—can trigger bailout. Immediately stabilize parameters, reduce flow on the colony, and perform an iodine dip. Siphon any sloughed tissue. Inspect for vermetid mucus and hidden pests. The bailed polyp can sometimes be contained in a low-flow cup with rubble to reattach.