Why do the green tips on my Green Tip Frogspawn fade or turn pastel under strong lighting?

The tips contain fluorescent proteins that peak under blue-heavy spectrum. Very high PAR bleaches the tips first. Aim for moderate PAR (80–150) with strong royal blue channels, and avoid rapid increases. Keep nutrients non-zero (nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1) to support pigments. Trace element stability (iodine/iron within normal reef ranges) also helps maintain color without chasing supplements.

My Fimbriaphyllia divisa occasionally retracts and drops a polyp—what causes polyp bailout and can it recover?

Bailout is a stress response to harsh flow, rapid parameter swings, stings, or bacterial insult. Reduce direct flow, stabilize alkalinity and temperature, and inspect for vermetid snails or stinging neighbors. If a bailed polyp is intact, place it in a low-flow cup with rubble and gentle light; some reattach and calcify. Address the root stressor to prevent repeats.

How can I safely propagate this branching frogspawn without causing tissue loss or infection?

Target natural branch junctions where skeleton narrows. Cut only bone with a diamond saw or bone cutters, keeping tissue clear of the blade. Pre-dip tools, then iodine-dip the frags for 5–10 minutes. Provide moderate, indirect flow for healing and hold off target feeding for a week. Avoid splitting a single head through fleshy tissue; wait until clear branching forms.

Can it coexist with hammers and torches, or will it fight them despite being related?

It can still sting close neighbors, including other Fimbriaphyllia. Torches (F. glabrescens) are usually more aggressive and can outcompete it. Leave several inches of space downcurrent from torches and monitor for sweeper extension at night. Mixing different lineages increases risk of allelopathy; carbon and regular water changes help. Watch for recession at contact points and relocate early.

Green Tip Frogspawn Coral

Frogspawn

Overview

Green Tip Frogspawn Coral shows branching heads with fleshy, paddle-like tentacles tipped in green. Fimbriaphyllia divisa is a large-polyp stony coral that forms branching skeletons; it prefers moderate lighting and gentle to moderate, indirect flow. It hosts symbiotic algae for photosynthesis but accepts small meaty foods, which can support faster growth and maintain color. Place with space around it, as its sweeper tentacles can sting nearby corals, and avoid high-flow areas that cause tissue damage.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate

Lighting Moderate

Flow Moderate, indirect

Placement Mid–Low

Temperament Semi-aggressive (6–8 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–10 dKH

Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped krill or shrimp, zooplankton, microplankton, pellet or powdered coral-specific foods

Care & Placement

Green Tip Frogspawn Coral (Fimbriaphyllia divisa) thrives with stable, moderate conditions. Provide moderate light (PAR ~75–150); start low and increase over 2–3 weeks to avoid bleaching. Use indirect, moderate flow that makes the polyps gently sway; too much flow tears tissue and too little traps detritus. Target feed 1–2x weekly with small meaty foods (mysis, LPS pellets) or fine coral foods; avoid overfeeding to keep nutrients in check. Keep temperature 75–78°F (24–26°C), pH 8.1–8.4, salinity 1.025–1.026, calcium 400–450 ppm, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, magnesium 1280–1400 ppm, nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.10 ppm. Test weekly, use an ATO for salinity stability, and avoid rapid swings—this coral is sensitive to quick changes, especially in alkalinity and salinity.Place mid to lower in the tank, on a stable rock with room to expand. Allow 6–8 inches of space from neighbors; nighttime sweeper tentacles can sting nearby corals. It’s semi-aggressive; avoid mixing with torches and keep distance even from other Euphyllia unless you observe compatibility. Acclimate with a temperature match and slow drip, then dip for pests; photo-acclimate to new lights. Signs of stress: pale tissue (too much light/low nutrients), tissue recession (low alkalinity or high flow), and brown jelly disease—frag away affected heads, increase flow, and perform iodine-based dips. Keep detritus off the skeleton with a gentle baster, and wear gloves when handling due to potent stings.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Green Tip Frogspawn Coral

Why do the green tips on my Green Tip Frogspawn fade or turn pastel under strong lighting?

The tips contain fluorescent proteins that peak under blue-heavy spectrum. Very high PAR bleaches the tips first. Aim for moderate PAR (80–150) with strong royal blue channels, and avoid rapid increases. Keep nutrients non-zero (nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1) to support pigments. Trace element stability (iodine/iron within normal reef ranges) also helps maintain color without chasing supplements.
My Fimbriaphyllia divisa occasionally retracts and drops a polyp—what causes polyp bailout and can it recover?

Bailout is a stress response to harsh flow, rapid parameter swings, stings, or bacterial insult. Reduce direct flow, stabilize alkalinity and temperature, and inspect for vermetid snails or stinging neighbors. If a bailed polyp is intact, place it in a low-flow cup with rubble and gentle light; some reattach and calcify. Address the root stressor to prevent repeats.
How can I safely propagate this branching frogspawn without causing tissue loss or infection?

Target natural branch junctions where skeleton narrows. Cut only bone with a diamond saw or bone cutters, keeping tissue clear of the blade. Pre-dip tools, then iodine-dip the frags for 5–10 minutes. Provide moderate, indirect flow for healing and hold off target feeding for a week. Avoid splitting a single head through fleshy tissue; wait until clear branching forms.
Can it coexist with hammers and torches, or will it fight them despite being related?

It can still sting close neighbors, including other Fimbriaphyllia. Torches (F. glabrescens) are usually more aggressive and can outcompete it. Leave several inches of space downcurrent from torches and monitor for sweeper extension at night. Mixing different lineages increases risk of allelopathy; carbon and regular water changes help. Watch for recession at contact points and relocate early.

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