Is Fimbriaphyllia divisa the branching or wall-type frogspawn, and why does that matter?

F. divisa is the wall type. Instead of separate heads, it forms a continuous meandering skeleton, making it harder to frag and slower to recover from damage. Tissue recession can spread along the wall, so stability is key. Choose a secure, semi-permanent placement with moderate, indirect flow to avoid flesh abrasion and minimize the risk of brown jelly spreading across a large connected polyp.

How can I keep the bicolor look from fading or turning uniformly green or brown?

Two-tone color holds best under moderate PAR (roughly 80–150) with strong blue spectrum and stable, slightly nutrient-rich water (detectable nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm). Avoid sudden shifts in light intensity or spectrum. If tips dull, reduce white channels, lengthen photoperiod gradually, and correct low nutrients. Iron and iodine at natural seawater levels can help pigment expression, but avoid heavy dosing swings.

My wall frogspawn is retracting on one side; how do I stop a recession from traveling?

First, correct the trigger: reduce direct blast, remove detritus, and stabilize parameters (alk swings are common culprits). Gently turkey-baste debris, increase intermittent flow for gas exchange, and target-feed lightly to support recovery. If brown jelly appears, perform an iodine or coral dip and increase isolation flow. Last resort for localized infection is a precise skeletal cut well into healthy tissue, but this is risky for wall forms.

Can it touch other Euphyllia, and which neighbors are most problematic?

It usually tolerates other frogspawn and many hammers at a respectful distance, but torches often win contact wars. Expect night sweeper tentacles reaching 3–6 inches, especially under higher nutrients. Give extra space down-current where sweepers extend. Avoid close proximity to aggressive Faviids or Galaxea. If you see repeated stinging, rotate rockwork to shift flow or relocate the neighbor rather than the wall colony

Bicolor Frogspawn Coral

Frogspawn

Overview

Bicolor Frogspawn Coral shows two-toned, bubble-tipped polyps with branching heads. Scientifically Fimbriaphyllia divisa, it is a large-polyp stony coral with a branching skeleton; it prefers moderate light and gentle to moderate, indirect flow. It relies on symbiotic algae for most nutrition but accepts small meaty foods, which can support growth and maintain color. Place with space around it, as long sweeper tentacles can sting nearby corals, and avoid strong direct flow that collapses the polyps.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate

Lighting Moderate

Flow Moderate, indirect

Placement Mid–Low

Temperament Aggressive (6–8 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 77–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–10 dKH

Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped krill or clam, zooplankton, microplankton, marine snow, coral-specific powdered foods

Care & Placement

Bicolor Frogspawn Coral (Fimbriaphyllia divisa) thrives with stable, moderate conditions and gentle handling. Provide moderate light (75–150 PAR); start low and increase over 1–2 weeks to prevent bleaching. Use gentle, indirect flow that keeps the polyps swaying without folding; this helps prevent detritus buildup and tissue damage. Target feed 1–2 times weekly with small meaty foods (mysis, enriched brine, reef roids slurry) when tentacles are extended; do not overfeed. Keep temperature 75–79°F (24–26°C), salinity 1.025–1.026 (35 ppt), pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1250–1350 ppm, nitrate 2–10 ppm, and phosphate 0.02–0.07 ppm. Test weekly with reliable kits, use a refractometer for salinity, and avoid daily alkalinity swings over 0.5 dKH. Place mid to low in the tank on stable rock or a rack where you can adjust height; allow 6–8 inches of space for long sweeper tentacles. Semi‑aggressive: keep distance from other LPS and especially SPS. Some clownfish may interact; monitor for irritation. Acclimate with a 30–45 minute drip and reduce light for the first few days; dip new specimens to limit pests. Watch for tissue recession (often from high flow, low nutrients, or alk swings) and brown jelly disease; siphon, iodine dip, and increase flow around the base if issues appear. Stability is key.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Bicolor Frogspawn Coral

Is Fimbriaphyllia divisa the branching or wall-type frogspawn, and why does that matter?

F. divisa is the wall type. Instead of separate heads, it forms a continuous meandering skeleton, making it harder to frag and slower to recover from damage. Tissue recession can spread along the wall, so stability is key. Choose a secure, semi-permanent placement with moderate, indirect flow to avoid flesh abrasion and minimize the risk of brown jelly spreading across a large connected polyp.
How can I keep the bicolor look from fading or turning uniformly green or brown?

Two-tone color holds best under moderate PAR (roughly 80–150) with strong blue spectrum and stable, slightly nutrient-rich water (detectable nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm). Avoid sudden shifts in light intensity or spectrum. If tips dull, reduce white channels, lengthen photoperiod gradually, and correct low nutrients. Iron and iodine at natural seawater levels can help pigment expression, but avoid heavy dosing swings.
My wall frogspawn is retracting on one side; how do I stop a recession from traveling?

First, correct the trigger: reduce direct blast, remove detritus, and stabilize parameters (alk swings are common culprits). Gently turkey-baste debris, increase intermittent flow for gas exchange, and target-feed lightly to support recovery. If brown jelly appears, perform an iodine or coral dip and increase isolation flow. Last resort for localized infection is a precise skeletal cut well into healthy tissue, but this is risky for wall forms.
Can it touch other Euphyllia, and which neighbors are most problematic?

It usually tolerates other frogspawn and many hammers at a respectful distance, but torches often win contact wars. Expect night sweeper tentacles reaching 3–6 inches, especially under higher nutrients. Give extra space down-current where sweepers extend. Avoid close proximity to aggressive Faviids or Galaxea. If you see repeated stinging, rotate rockwork to shift flow or relocate the neighbor rather than the wall colony

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