My All Star Favia’s colors faded from neon contrasts to dull green. What’s the likely cause and fix?

This coral’s pigments wash out under excessive white light or chronically low nutrients. Aim for moderate PAR (80–150) with strong blue spectrum, stable alkalinity (8–9 dKH), and modest nitrate/phosphate (e.g., 5–15 ppm NO3, 0.03–0.08 PO4). Nighttime target feeding boosts chroma. Trace balance matters; avoid heavy metals, but maintain iodine/iron at normal reef levels via regular water changes.

How aggressive are its sweeper tentacles, and how should I space it from neighbors?

Favia favus throws long, sticky sweepers after lights out—often 2–4 inches, more under higher flow or when sensing nearby rivals. Give 4–6 inches of clearance from meaty LPS and fleshy polyps. Reduce direct crossflow that “carries” sweepers into other corals. A small rock “island” helps contain stings and simplifies pruning.

I see slow tissue loss starting at the base. What should I check first?

Base recession often stems from detritus accumulation, shaded edges, or alk swings. Increase gentle, random flow around the base, turkey-baste debris, and verify alkalinity stability. Inspect for vermetid snails or boring worms and remove physically. If tissue looks gelatinous, siphon and iodine dip. Improve stability before escalating to antibiotics.

How can I manage its dome-like growth to avoid self-shadowing and dead spots?

Mount on a pedestal or small, raised rock to keep the skirt clear. Periodically rotate the piece to even light exposure, and trim overhangs by sawing small wedges between corallites. Maintain moderate, wrapping flow to keep valleys clean. Target-feed the shaded side occasionally to support polyps that get less light.

WWC All Star Favia Coral

Favia LPS

Overview

All Star Favia Coral has large polygonal corallites with raised walls and contrasting mouths. Favia favus is a stony, encrusting to massive brain coral that prefers moderate light and low to moderate, indirect flow. It relies on symbiotic algae for energy but accepts occasional small meaty foods at night, which can support growth and color. Place with several inches of space, as night sweeper tentacles can sting nearby corals.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate

Lighting Low–Moderate

Flow Moderate, indirect

Placement Low–Mid

Temperament Semi-aggressive (4–6 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–10 dKH

Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped seafood, zooplankton, microplankton, cyclops, copepods, coral-specific powdered foods, marine snow

Care & Placement

All Star Favia Coral (Favia favus) thrives with stable, moderate conditions. Provide moderate light (PAR ~80–150); start low and increase slowly to prevent bleaching. Use moderate, indirect flow to keep tissues clean and avoid pounding the polyps; this reduces detritus buildup and promotes healthy extension. Target-feed 1–2x per week after lights out with small meaty foods (mysis, calanus, finely minced seafood) or fine coral foods; spot feeding supports growth and coloration. Maintain: temperature 75–79°F (24–26°C), salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1250–1350 ppm, nitrate 2–10 ppm, phosphate 0.02–0.08 ppm. Test weekly, calibrate your refractometer, and avoid alkalinity swings (>0.5 dKH/day).Place low to mid in the tank on stable rock or sandbed with 3–6 inches of space; this coral has nighttime sweeper tentacles and is semi‑aggressive. Keep distance from other LPS and fleshy species (e.g., Euphyllia, Trachyphyllia) to prevent stings. Acclimate with a 30–60 minute drip, then light acclimate using a screen or reduced intensity for 7–10 days; dip for pests and quarantine if possible. Signs of stress include paling/bleaching (reduce light, increase feeding) and tissue recession (check salinity, alkalinity stability, and flow; inspect for pests; consider iodine-based dips for bacterial issues). Brown jelly or rapid tissue loss warrants improved flow, stable parameters, and immediate fragging of healthy sections if necessary. Consistent maintenance and gentle handling are the keys to long-term success.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the WWC All Star Favia Coral

My All Star Favia’s colors faded from neon contrasts to dull green. What’s the likely cause and fix?

This coral’s pigments wash out under excessive white light or chronically low nutrients. Aim for moderate PAR (80–150) with strong blue spectrum, stable alkalinity (8–9 dKH), and modest nitrate/phosphate (e.g., 5–15 ppm NO3, 0.03–0.08 PO4). Nighttime target feeding boosts chroma. Trace balance matters; avoid heavy metals, but maintain iodine/iron at normal reef levels via regular water changes.
How aggressive are its sweeper tentacles, and how should I space it from neighbors?

Favia favus throws long, sticky sweepers after lights out—often 2–4 inches, more under higher flow or when sensing nearby rivals. Give 4–6 inches of clearance from meaty LPS and fleshy polyps. Reduce direct crossflow that “carries” sweepers into other corals. A small rock “island” helps contain stings and simplifies pruning.
I see slow tissue loss starting at the base. What should I check first?

Base recession often stems from detritus accumulation, shaded edges, or alk swings. Increase gentle, random flow around the base, turkey-baste debris, and verify alkalinity stability. Inspect for vermetid snails or boring worms and remove physically. If tissue looks gelatinous, siphon and iodine dip. Improve stability before escalating to antibiotics.
How can I manage its dome-like growth to avoid self-shadowing and dead spots?

Mount on a pedestal or small, raised rock to keep the skirt clear. Periodically rotate the piece to even light exposure, and trim overhangs by sawing small wedges between corallites. Maintain moderate, wrapping flow to keep valleys clean. Target-feed the shaded side occasionally to support polyps that get less light.