Why does my Bubbleyum Tenuis lose pink/blue contrast after a few weeks under strong LEDs?

Color fade often ties to imbalanced nutrients under high PAR. Aim for stable alkalinity (8–9 dKH) and keep measurable nitrate (5–15 ppm) and phosphate (0.02–0.08 ppm). Excessively “clean” water with very high light can wash colors; conversely, high phosphate mutes blues. Ensure strong violet/UV (380–420 nm) and good flow. Avoid rapid light increases; acclimate over 2–3 weeks.

My colony encrusts well but stalls on vertical branching—what’s the bottleneck?

A. tenuis typically encrusts before throwing axial branches. If it plateaus, check flow dynamics—add more randomized, cross-current pulses to stimulate axial growth. Keep alk steady and avoid daily swings. Slightly bump PAR (e.g., 250 → 300) after stability is proven. Trim nearby shading branches and maintain trace balance (potassium ~380–420 mg/L) to support tip growth.

The base is browning and receding where the colony shadows itself—how do I prevent this?

Shadowing is common as tenuis thickens. Increase side lighting or slightly raise the colony to widen spread. Add more varied, turbulent flow to sweep detritus from the base. Periodically trim or reposition branches to open light channels. Avoid laminar streams blasting one side; use alternating gyres or random modes to keep tissues oxygenated.

How can I tell if poor polyp extension is from pests or parameter stress?

If extension drops suddenly, inspect at night with a flashlight for AEFW bite marks or eggs and for red bugs on polyps. If no pests are seen, check for alkalinity swings, elevated temperature, or aggressive neighbors’ chemical warfare. Run fresh carbon, stabilize dKH, and adjust flow. When in doubt, isolate a frag in QT for close observation and dips.

TSA Mango Passion Tenuis Acropora Coral

Acropora SPS

Overview

Bubbleyum Tenuis Acropora Coral shows thick, branching tips with contrasting polyp coloration. Acropora tenuis is a small-polyp stony branching coral that prefers strong light and high, turbulent water flow. It relies on symbiotic algae for most nutrition but can benefit from occasional small particulate foods, which may support growth and color. Place high on stable rockwork with space from aggressive neighbors, and avoid shading or direct contact with other corals.

Quick Facts

Care Difficult

Lighting High

Flow High

Placement High

Temperament Semi-aggressive (3–6 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 77–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 420–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 7.5–9 dKH

Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic (primary), microzooplankton, rotifers, copepod nauplii, oyster eggs, coral-specific powdered foods (e.g., Reef-Roids), amino acid supplements

Care & Placement

Bubbleyum Tenuis Acropora Coral (Acropora tenuis) thrives with bright, stable conditions and strong, variable flow. Target 250–400 PAR under full-spectrum LEDs or T5/hybrid; acclimate over 2–3 weeks by starting lower (150–200 PAR) or using screen layers to avoid bleaching. Provide high, turbulent flow that keeps polyps moving without a constant blast; this limits detritus buildup and promotes gas exchange. Maintain steady parameters: temperature 75–78°F (24–26°C), salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8–9 dKH, calcium 420–460 ppm, magnesium 1300–1400 ppm, nitrate 2–10 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.08 ppm. Use an auto top-off for salinity, consistent dosing for major elements, a PAR meter if possible, and regular testing; carbon helps reduce chemical stress from neighbors. Place frags mid-to-high in the tank on a stable mount with 2–3 inches of space from other SPS and away from aggressive LPS; A. tenuis won’t throw long sweepers but can sting on contact and will shade neighbors as it branches.Feed lightly 1–3 times weekly with fine particulate foods (rotifers, reef powders) or amino acids; overfeeding raises nutrients and dulls color. Dip and quarantine to prevent red bugs and AEFW; inspect for bite marks if tissue recedes. Watch for signs: pale tips = too much light or low nutrients; browning = excess nutrients or low light; rapid tissue loss = instability or pests. Keep changes gradual and stable for best growth and color.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the TSA Mango Passion Tenuis Acropora Coral

Why does my Bubbleyum Tenuis lose pink/blue contrast after a few weeks under strong LEDs?

Color fade often ties to imbalanced nutrients under high PAR. Aim for stable alkalinity (8–9 dKH) and keep measurable nitrate (5–15 ppm) and phosphate (0.02–0.08 ppm). Excessively “clean” water with very high light can wash colors; conversely, high phosphate mutes blues. Ensure strong violet/UV (380–420 nm) and good flow. Avoid rapid light increases; acclimate over 2–3 weeks.
My colony encrusts well but stalls on vertical branching—what’s the bottleneck?

A. tenuis typically encrusts before throwing axial branches. If it plateaus, check flow dynamics—add more randomized, cross-current pulses to stimulate axial growth. Keep alk steady and avoid daily swings. Slightly bump PAR (e.g., 250 → 300) after stability is proven. Trim nearby shading branches and maintain trace balance (potassium ~380–420 mg/L) to support tip growth.
The base is browning and receding where the colony shadows itself—how do I prevent this?

Shadowing is common as tenuis thickens. Increase side lighting or slightly raise the colony to widen spread. Add more varied, turbulent flow to sweep detritus from the base. Periodically trim or reposition branches to open light channels. Avoid laminar streams blasting one side; use alternating gyres or random modes to keep tissues oxygenated.
How can I tell if poor polyp extension is from pests or parameter stress?

If extension drops suddenly, inspect at night with a flashlight for AEFW bite marks or eggs and for red bugs on polyps. If no pests are seen, check for alkalinity swings, elevated temperature, or aggressive neighbors’ chemical warfare. Run fresh carbon, stabilize dKH, and adjust flow. When in doubt, isolate a frag in QT for close observation and dips.