Why does my Glitter Puddle Favia send out long sweepers at night, and how do I manage aggression?

Favia favus extends 2–4 inch sweeper tentacles after lights out to capture food and defend space. Give 4–6 inches clearance from neighbors, especially softies and other LPS. A bit more random flow can shorten sweepers and carry mucus away, reducing sting risk. Feed at dusk to satisfy feeding drives. If contact is unavoidable, place sturdier neighbors up-current and fragile ones down-current.

How do I keep the “glitter” speckling and rich colors from fading or browning?

This species colors best under moderate PAR with strong royal blue–violet spectrum. Avoid abrupt jumps in intensity; acclimate over 2–3 weeks. Maintain stable nutrients (nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm) rather than chasing ultra-low numbers. Consistent alkalinity (8–9 dKH) supports fluorescence. Trace balance from regular water changes is usually enough; avoid heavy dosing that can mute tones or trigger algae on exposed skeleton.

Mine grows as low bumps, not a big dome—normal? Can I encourage a certain shape?

Favia favus starts encrusting, then thickens into mounds as it gains mass. Lower PAR and slightly higher flow favor a flatter, spreading mat; moderate PAR with steady nutrients promotes vertical dome growth. Give it a stable, clean perimeter so new septa aren’t smothered by algae. Mount frags on flat rock rather than tall plugs if you want a plate-like colony for easier future pruning.

I’m seeing tissue pull back around the rims while mouths still inflate—what’s the likely cause?

Rim recession often follows alkalinity swings, light shock, or chronic irritation from vermetid snails and nearby stingers. Stabilize alk and temperature, reduce PAR 20–30% temporarily, and clear vermetids. Keep the perimeter clean with a turkey baster; a thin ring of reef-safe epoxy can shield exposed skeleton from algae. Resume normal light gradually once tissue thickens, and avoid large meaty foods that can tear fragile edges.

TSA Glitter Puddle Favia Coral

Favia

Overview

Glitter Puddle Favia Coral features distinct polygonal corallites with thick, raised walls and fleshy polyps. Favia favus is a stony brain coral that forms domes or encrusting heads, doing well under moderate light and gentle to moderate water flow. It hosts symbiotic algae and benefits from occasional small meaty feedings at night to support growth and color. Place it with space from other corals due to night sweeper tentacles, and start it in lower to mid levels to acclimate to light.

Quick Facts

Care Easy

Lighting Low–Moderate

Flow Moderate, indirect

Placement Low–Mid

Temperament Aggressive (6–8 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 420–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–10 dKH

Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped marine meaty foods (krill, clam), copepods, rotifers, zooplankton, microplankton, coral-specific powdered foods

Care & Placement

Glitter Puddle Favia Coral (Favia favus) prefers stable, moderate conditions and rewards consistent care with bold color and steady growth. Place it low to mid in the tank under low–moderate light (60–120 PAR). Start shaded and increase light over 1–2 weeks to prevent bleaching. Provide moderate, indirect flow to keep detritus off the tissue without blasting the polyps; this helps prevent recession and algae settling in the valleys. Feed 2–3 times weekly after lights dim when feeding tentacles extend; target small meaty foods (mysis, finely chopped shrimp), enriched pellets, or fine coral foods. Maintain temperature 76–79°F, salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1250–1350 ppm, nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.10 ppm. Test weekly (more often if new) and prioritize stability; this species dislikes rapid swings, especially in alkalinity and salinity.Place on the sandbed or a stable lower rock ledge with 3–6 inches of clearance from neighbors; Favia sends out long nighttime sweepers and can sting nearby corals. Dip new pieces to screen for pests, then drip acclimate 30–45 minutes. Glue the frag securely so flow can’t topple it. Common issues: pale tissue (too much light or too little nutrients), recession from the base (detritus buildup, pests, or unstable alkalinity), and food theft by fish—use a feeding dome if needed. Siphon debris during water changes, keep flow paths clear, and adjust lighting or nutrients gradually to keep colors rich and tissue full.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the TSA Glitter Puddle Favia Coral

Why does my Glitter Puddle Favia send out long sweepers at night, and how do I manage aggression?

Favia favus extends 2–4 inch sweeper tentacles after lights out to capture food and defend space. Give 4–6 inches clearance from neighbors, especially softies and other LPS. A bit more random flow can shorten sweepers and carry mucus away, reducing sting risk. Feed at dusk to satisfy feeding drives. If contact is unavoidable, place sturdier neighbors up-current and fragile ones down-current.
How do I keep the “glitter” speckling and rich colors from fading or browning?

This species colors best under moderate PAR with strong royal blue–violet spectrum. Avoid abrupt jumps in intensity; acclimate over 2–3 weeks. Maintain stable nutrients (nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm) rather than chasing ultra-low numbers. Consistent alkalinity (8–9 dKH) supports fluorescence. Trace balance from regular water changes is usually enough; avoid heavy dosing that can mute tones or trigger algae on exposed skeleton.
Mine grows as low bumps, not a big dome—normal? Can I encourage a certain shape?

Favia favus starts encrusting, then thickens into mounds as it gains mass. Lower PAR and slightly higher flow favor a flatter, spreading mat; moderate PAR with steady nutrients promotes vertical dome growth. Give it a stable, clean perimeter so new septa aren’t smothered by algae. Mount frags on flat rock rather than tall plugs if you want a plate-like colony for easier future pruning.
I’m seeing tissue pull back around the rims while mouths still inflate—what’s the likely cause?

Rim recession often follows alkalinity swings, light shock, or chronic irritation from vermetid snails and nearby stingers. Stabilize alk and temperature, reduce PAR 20–30% temporarily, and clear vermetids. Keep the perimeter clean with a turkey baster; a thin ring of reef-safe epoxy can shield exposed skeleton from algae. Resume normal light gradually once tissue thickens, and avoid large meaty foods that can tear fragile edges.