How do I keep the GI Dragon Acropora’s vivid reds/greens from washing out?

Aim for 250–350 PAR with strong blue (420–460 nm) and stable nutrients (NO3 2–10 ppm, PO4 0.03–0.08 ppm). Keep alkalinity 7.5–8.5 dKH with minimal daily swing. Too-clean water or sudden light increases fade pigments; ramp LEDs slowly. Provide high, chaotic flow and consistent trace elements (iodine/iron via ICP-guided dosing). Slightly elevated nutrients often restore depth without causing algae.

My GI Dragon shades its base and starts to recede—how can I prevent basal STN?

Tenuis grows dense, upward branches that self-shade. Space frags 3–4 cm apart and trim axial tips to open the colony. Angle the piece so light grazes the base, and increase crossflow to prevent detritus buildup. Keep alk and temp stable; even minor alk dips can start recession at shaded tissue. Consider side-mounting to encourage lateral plating.

Polyp extension is great at night but minimal by day—normal or a problem?

Many healthy tenuis retract polyps under strong light or high flow by day. If color and growth are good, it’s normal. If daytime PE declines suddenly, check for pests (look for AEFW bite marks or red bugs), stray metals (ICP test), and phosphate starvation. Slightly reduce peak PAR, adjust flow angle, and restore PO4 to 0.03–0.05 ppm to improve comfort.

Are there pests or rare issues this morph is especially sensitive to?

GI Dragon shows early color dulling with AEFW or red bugs before tissue loss. Inspect with a flashlight after lights out; baste to reveal flatworms. Quarantine and dip new acros; for confirmed AEFW, use weekly dips for 4–6 weeks and add a wrasse (e.g., melanurus) as support. Also watch for zinc/copper spikes from rusting magnets—swap suspect hardware and run fresh carbon.

TSA GI Dragon Acropora Coral

Acropora SPS

Overview

GI Dragon Acropora Coral shows tightly spaced, upward-branching sticks with small polyps and contrasting tip coloration. Acropora tenuis is a branching small-polyp stony coral that prefers strong light and high, turbulent water flow. It is photosynthetic via symbiotic algae but can take occasional fine plankton or coral foods, which can support faster growth and deeper color. Place high on stable rock with room for upward and outward growth, and keep away from aggressive corals to avoid tissue damage.

Quick Facts

Care Difficult

Lighting High

Flow High, turbulent

Placement High

Temperament Peaceful (2–3 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 77–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 7.5–9 dKH

Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic (primary), microzooplankton, rotifers, copepod nauplii, oyster eggs, reef powdered coral foods (e.g., Reef Roids, Reef Chili), amino acid supplements

Care & Placement

GI Dragon Acropora Coral (Acropora tenuis) thrives in stable, high-quality water with strong light and vigorous, random flow. Target 250–400 PAR under blue-heavy LEDs or T5/LED hybrids; light-acclimate over 2–3 weeks to avoid bleaching. Provide high, varied flow (crossing gyres or alternating wavemakers) to keep tissue clean and prevent detritus buildup. Feed fine particulate foods (reef roids, rotifers) or low-dose aminos 1–2 times weekly; keep nutrients present but controlled. Aim for: temperature 75–78°F (24–26°C), salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH (avoid swings), calcium 420–460 ppm, magnesium 1300–1400 ppm, nitrate 2–10 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.08 ppm. Test weekly and maintain stability; an auto top-off helps keep salinity steady.Place frags in the upper third of the tank with clear line-of-sight to flow and light; allow 2–3 inches from neighbors. It can encrust quickly, so mount on rock you’re comfortable letting it claim. Avoid aggressive LPS with long sweepers; compatible with most SPS but prevent shade and crowding. Acclimate by temperature-matching, a 30–60 minute drip, and a pest dip; inspect for flatworms and red bugs. Common issues: pale colors (too little nutrients or too much light), tissue recession (alk swings, pests, or low flow). Increase flow, verify parameters, and stabilize before changing light. Frag cleanly above healthy tissue if necrosis advances.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the TSA GI Dragon Acropora Coral

How do I keep the GI Dragon Acropora’s vivid reds/greens from washing out?

Aim for 250–350 PAR with strong blue (420–460 nm) and stable nutrients (NO3 2–10 ppm, PO4 0.03–0.08 ppm). Keep alkalinity 7.5–8.5 dKH with minimal daily swing. Too-clean water or sudden light increases fade pigments; ramp LEDs slowly. Provide high, chaotic flow and consistent trace elements (iodine/iron via ICP-guided dosing). Slightly elevated nutrients often restore depth without causing algae.
My GI Dragon shades its base and starts to recede—how can I prevent basal STN?

Tenuis grows dense, upward branches that self-shade. Space frags 3–4 cm apart and trim axial tips to open the colony. Angle the piece so light grazes the base, and increase crossflow to prevent detritus buildup. Keep alk and temp stable; even minor alk dips can start recession at shaded tissue. Consider side-mounting to encourage lateral plating.
Polyp extension is great at night but minimal by day—normal or a problem?

Many healthy tenuis retract polyps under strong light or high flow by day. If color and growth are good, it’s normal. If daytime PE declines suddenly, check for pests (look for AEFW bite marks or red bugs), stray metals (ICP test), and phosphate starvation. Slightly reduce peak PAR, adjust flow angle, and restore PO4 to 0.03–0.05 ppm to improve comfort.
Are there pests or rare issues this morph is especially sensitive to?

GI Dragon shows early color dulling with AEFW or red bugs before tissue loss. Inspect with a flashlight after lights out; baste to reveal flatworms. Quarantine and dip new acros; for confirmed AEFW, use weekly dips for 4–6 weeks and add a wrasse (e.g., melanurus) as support. Also watch for zinc/copper spikes from rusting magnets—swap suspect hardware and run fresh carbon.

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