Why do the “electro” tips on my Electro Hammer Coral fade even though it’s growing?

Color often dulls when PAR is too low or nutrients are ultra-low. Aim for 80–150 PAR with a blue-heavy spectrum, and keep nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm. Sudden alkalinity swings also mute fluorescence. Increase light gradually over 2–3 weeks, stabilize alk 8–9.5 dKH, and avoid aggressive carbon use that strips organics too fast.

How does Fimbriaphyllia paraancora branch and what does that mean for fragging?

It forms distinct calcified branches with individual heads that split over time. For propagation, cut the skeleton between branches well below tissue using bone cutters or a bandsaw. Avoid nicking flesh; dip frags in an iodine-based bath and provide moderate, random flow during recovery. Don’t attempt “wall-style” cuts—this species frags best by isolating full branches.

My hammer retracts and shows stringy filaments after a flow change—normal or a problem?

Brief extrusion of mesenterial filaments after stress is common. If retraction persists, the flow is likely too laminar or strong at one angle. Switch to alternating, indirect flow that gently sways tentacles without collapsing them. Check for irritants like vermetid snails or detritus at the base; remove offenders and increase irregular turbulence to keep the skeleton clean.

Can it sit near torches, frogspawn, or clowns that want to host it?

Give generous space. Hammers can sting other corals, and torches often outcompete and burn hammers even at a distance. Frogspawn are usually less aggressive but still risky when touching. Some clowns will host, but persistent rubbing can cause recession; only tolerate small species with a robust, multi-head colony and be ready to rehome if tissue shows wear.

TSA Electro Hammer Coral

Euphyllia LPS Hammers

Overview

Electro Hammer Coral shows fleshy, hammer-shaped tentacle tips with branching heads. Fimbriaphyllia paraancora is a large-polyp stony coral that forms branching colonies; it prefers moderate lighting and gentle to moderate, indirect water flow. It relies on symbiotic algae for energy but accepts small meaty foods, which can support faster growth and fuller polyp extension. Place with space around it due to long stinging sweeper tentacles, and avoid contact with delicate neighbors.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate

Lighting Moderate

Flow Moderate indirect

Placement Mid–Low

Temperament Aggressive (6–8 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 77–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 420–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–9.5 dKH

Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic (primary), mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped meaty seafood, zooplankton, coral-specific powdered foods (e.g., Reef Roids), marine snow

Care & Placement

Electro Hammer Coral (Fimbriaphyllia paraancora) thrives with stable, moderate conditions. Provide moderate light (75–150 PAR); start lower and increase over 1–2 weeks to prevent bleaching. Use gentle, random flow that keeps polyps swaying without folding or retracting; enough movement helps prevent detritus buildup between the fleshy heads. Target feed 1–2 times weekly with small meaty foods (mysis, chopped krill) or fine coral foods; this supports growth and recovery after fragging. Keep temperature 76–80°F, pH 8.0–8.4, salinity 1.025–1.026 (35 ppt), calcium 400–450 ppm, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, magnesium 1250–1350 ppm, nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.10 ppm. Test weekly with reliable kits, use a refractometer for salinity, and dose to hold numbers steady—swings often lead to tissue recession.Place in the lower to mid tank, on a stable surface without sharp edges, with 3–6 inches clearance from neighbors. It is semi‑aggressive and extends stinging tentacles at night; avoid contact with most other corals, though similar Fimbriaphyllia may sometimes coexist. Acclimate by drip (30–45 minutes), dip in iodine-based solution to reduce pests, and light-acclimate by starting in shade or reducing photoperiod. Common issues: recession from low alkalinity or too much flow; pale or bleached tissue from excessive light or low nutrients; brown jelly disease after damage—immediately siphon, frag away affected heads, perform an iodine dip, and improve flow. Maintain clean but not sterile water, avoid blasting flow, and handle only by the skeleton to protect the soft tissue.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the TSA Electro Hammer Coral

Why do the “electro” tips on my Electro Hammer Coral fade even though it’s growing?

Color often dulls when PAR is too low or nutrients are ultra-low. Aim for 80–150 PAR with a blue-heavy spectrum, and keep nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm. Sudden alkalinity swings also mute fluorescence. Increase light gradually over 2–3 weeks, stabilize alk 8–9.5 dKH, and avoid aggressive carbon use that strips organics too fast.
How does Fimbriaphyllia paraancora branch and what does that mean for fragging?

It forms distinct calcified branches with individual heads that split over time. For propagation, cut the skeleton between branches well below tissue using bone cutters or a bandsaw. Avoid nicking flesh; dip frags in an iodine-based bath and provide moderate, random flow during recovery. Don’t attempt “wall-style” cuts—this species frags best by isolating full branches.
My hammer retracts and shows stringy filaments after a flow change—normal or a problem?

Brief extrusion of mesenterial filaments after stress is common. If retraction persists, the flow is likely too laminar or strong at one angle. Switch to alternating, indirect flow that gently sways tentacles without collapsing them. Check for irritants like vermetid snails or detritus at the base; remove offenders and increase irregular turbulence to keep the skeleton clean.
Can it sit near torches, frogspawn, or clowns that want to host it?

Give generous space. Hammers can sting other corals, and torches often outcompete and burn hammers even at a distance. Frogspawn are usually less aggressive but still risky when touching. Some clowns will host, but persistent rubbing can cause recession; only tolerate small species with a robust, multi-head colony and be ready to rehome if tissue shows wear.