Why does my Dream Weaver Chalice (Echinophyllia sp.) lose pinks/reds while greens stay strong under high light?

Many Echinophyllia morphs come from deeper, turbid zones and shift under intense PAR. Reds/pinks bleach or brown first, while greens remain. Aim for moderate PAR (60–120), blue-heavy spectrum, and gradual acclimation. Slightly elevated nutrients (NO3 5–15 ppm, PO4 0.03–0.1) help color. If edges pale or “rim-burn,” lower light and shorten photoperiod; colors usually rebound over 2–4 weeks.

The center looks shadowed and receding while the rim grows—what’s causing “donut” die-off?

Plate growth can self-shade, starving central tissue. Combine moderate, angled flow with side lighting to reach the middle. Periodically rotate the frag/tile. Target feed the central mouths at night to stimulate tissue recovery. Siphon detritus from the basin-like center; trapped organics drive bacterial irritation and slow tissue necrosis. Remove any vermetid snails that cast mucous webs across the surface.

My chalice inflates at the rim and shows tiny feeder tentacles only after lights out—am I underfeeding?

That nocturnal behavior is normal and a good feeding window. Offer fine meaty foods (mysis mince, reef roids blend) 1–2x weekly with pumps off. Watch for quick retraction—if food sits, you’re overdoing it. Excess can fuel cyano on the rim; siphon any film promptly. Amino dosing can help color, but reduce if you see nuisance algae.

Are chemical skirmishes an issue with chalices, or just physical sweepers?

Both. Echinophyllia deploy night sweepers (2–3 inches) and release allelopathic compounds, especially near other chalices and LPS. Maintain spacing, run fresh carbon, and perform regular water changes after moves or cuts. If you see unexplained recession on the contact side facing a neighbor, increase distance and flow directionality; recovery often starts at the rim within a week.

TSA Dream Weaver Chalice Coral

Chalice LPS

Overview

Dream Weaver Chalice Coral shows a ridged, plating surface with contrasting eyes and a wavy rim. Echinophyllia sp., a large-polyp stony coral that forms thin plates, prefers low to moderate light and gentle to moderate water flow. It relies on symbiotic algae for energy but benefits from occasional small meaty feedings at night, which can improve growth and color stability. Place it on stable rockwork with space around it, as its sweeper tentacles can sting nearby corals.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate

Lighting Low–Moderate

Flow Low–Moderate

Placement Low–Mid

Temperament Aggressive (6+ inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 420–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–9.5 dKH

Magnesium 1250–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic (primary), microplankton, rotifers, copepods, coral-specific powdered foods (e.g., Reef-Roids), finely chopped mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, marine snow

Care & Placement

Dream Weaver Chalice Coral (Echinophyllia sp.) prefers low to moderate light (PAR ~75–150) and gentle, varied flow that keeps detritus from settling without lifting tissue. Start low in the tank or in partial shade and light-acclimate slowly using screen layers or by raising intensity over 2–3 weeks; too much light or sudden changes can cause bleaching. Keep temperature 76–79°F, salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 420–460 ppm, magnesium 1300–1400 ppm, nitrate 2–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.08 ppm. This coral dislikes swings—use an auto top-off, test weekly, and confirm salinity with a refractometer. Feed at night 1–2 times weekly with fine meaty foods (mysis mince, reef roids, oyster eggs) when feeding tentacles extend; target feed gently to boost growth and color.Place on a stable rock ledge low to mid-level, with the rim exposed to flow and the base free of sand to prevent recession. Leave 3–6 inches from neighbors; it’s generally calm by day but can extend short stingers at night. Acclimate new pieces with a temperature match, drip acclimation, and a coral dip to exclude pests. Common issues: edge recession from low flow or dirty substrate, pale tissue from excess light or ultra-low nutrients, and slow tissue loss from alkalinity swings. If problems appear, reduce light 20–30%, improve random flow, stabilize parameters, and increase small, regular feedings until recovery.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the TSA Dream Weaver Chalice Coral

Why does my Dream Weaver Chalice (Echinophyllia sp.) lose pinks/reds while greens stay strong under high light?

Many Echinophyllia morphs come from deeper, turbid zones and shift under intense PAR. Reds/pinks bleach or brown first, while greens remain. Aim for moderate PAR (60–120), blue-heavy spectrum, and gradual acclimation. Slightly elevated nutrients (NO3 5–15 ppm, PO4 0.03–0.1) help color. If edges pale or “rim-burn,” lower light and shorten photoperiod; colors usually rebound over 2–4 weeks.
The center looks shadowed and receding while the rim grows—what’s causing “donut” die-off?

Plate growth can self-shade, starving central tissue. Combine moderate, angled flow with side lighting to reach the middle. Periodically rotate the frag/tile. Target feed the central mouths at night to stimulate tissue recovery. Siphon detritus from the basin-like center; trapped organics drive bacterial irritation and slow tissue necrosis. Remove any vermetid snails that cast mucous webs across the surface.
My chalice inflates at the rim and shows tiny feeder tentacles only after lights out—am I underfeeding?

That nocturnal behavior is normal and a good feeding window. Offer fine meaty foods (mysis mince, reef roids blend) 1–2x weekly with pumps off. Watch for quick retraction—if food sits, you’re overdoing it. Excess can fuel cyano on the rim; siphon any film promptly. Amino dosing can help color, but reduce if you see nuisance algae.
Are chemical skirmishes an issue with chalices, or just physical sweepers?

Both. Echinophyllia deploy night sweepers (2–3 inches) and release allelopathic compounds, especially near other chalices and LPS. Maintain spacing, run fresh carbon, and perform regular water changes after moves or cuts. If you see unexplained recession on the contact side facing a neighbor, increase distance and flow directionality; recovery often starts at the rim within a week.