How can I safely frag Green Hammer Coral (Fimbriaphyllia paraancora) given its branching skeleton?

Target the hard skeleton between distinct branches using bone cutters or a coral saw—never through living tissue. Dip frags in iodine to reduce bacterial risk, place in moderate, indirect flow, and lower light for a week to heal. Avoid handling fleshy heads. If skeleton dust contacts tissue, gently baste it off to prevent irritation and recession.

My hammer’s tips are receding or turning brown—what’s the likely cause?

Direct, high flow can cut tissue on branch edges, and alk swings often trigger recession. Aim for random, moderate flow, maintain alk 8–9 dKH, Ca 420–460 ppm, Mg 1300–1400 ppm, and keep nitrate 5–15 ppm with detectable phosphate. If brown jelly appears, frag away affected branches, perform an iodine dip, and increase aeration and export.

Why did the vivid green fade under my lights, and how can I regain it?

Greens wash out under high white or excessive PAR. Target 80–150 PAR with a blue-leaning spectrum (heavy 420–470 nm). Avoid ultra-low nutrients; mild nitrate and phosphate support pigments. Trace elements matter, but stability beats dosing experiments—correct salinity and alk first. Expect color to rebound over weeks, not days, after adjustments.

Are torches or clownfish a problem for this coral?

Torches (F. glabrescens) are more aggressive; keep 6–8 inches distance minimum, more in high flow. Hammers tolerate many LPS, but nighttime sweepers can still sting neighbors. Persistent clownfish hosting often bruises tissue and invites infection; provide a substitute (e.g., large Euphyllia with thicker tentacles or a nem) and redirect flow to discourage hosting.

Green Hammer Coral

Euphyllia Hammers LPS

Overview

The Green Hammer Coral features bright green, hammer-shaped tips on branching polyps. Fimbriaphyllia paraancora is a large-polyp stony branching coral that prefers moderate light and gentle to moderate, indirect water flow. It relies on symbiotic algae for most nutrition but benefits from occasional small meaty feedings to support growth and maintain color. Place it with ample space due to stinging sweeper tentacles, and avoid strong, direct flow that collapses the polyps.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate

Lighting Moderate

Flow Moderate, indirect

Placement Mid–Low

Temperament Aggressive (6–8 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–10 dKH

Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped shrimp or clam, zooplankton, microplankton, coral-specific powders (e.g., Reef Roids), marine snow

Care & Placement

Green Hammer Coral (Fimbriaphyllia paraancora) thrives in stable, moderate conditions. Provide moderate light at 80–150 PAR; start low and increase over 1–2 weeks to prevent bleaching and keep color. Aim for gentle to moderate, indirect flow that moves the polyps without whipping them; this prevents detritus buildup and tissue tears. Target feed 1–2 times weekly with small meaty foods (mysis, enriched brine, reef roids) when tentacles are extended to support growth and recovery from fragging. Maintain temperature 77–79°F (25–26°C), salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1300–1400 ppm, nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm. Test weekly with reliable kits; adjust slowly to avoid swings that can trigger recession.Place low to mid in the tank on stable rock or a sand-safe base that keeps the skeleton off abrasive grains. Allow 4–6 inches (more if flow is strong) from neighbors; this coral is semi-aggressive and can extend sweepers at night. Compatible with peaceful fish and inverts; avoid stinging LPS, nipping angels, and persistent clownfish hosting. Acclimate with a 30–45 minute drip, dip for pests if desired, and handle by the skeleton, not the flesh. Watch for signs of stress: gaping, receding tissue, or brown jelly (cloudy slime). At first sign, increase flow slightly around the base, siphon affected tissue, iodine dip, and frag beyond necrotic areas if needed. Keep parameters steady, avoid blasting flow, and do not chase numbers—consistency is key for long-term growth and splitting heads.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Green Hammer Coral

How can I safely frag Green Hammer Coral (Fimbriaphyllia paraancora) given its branching skeleton?

Target the hard skeleton between distinct branches using bone cutters or a coral saw—never through living tissue. Dip frags in iodine to reduce bacterial risk, place in moderate, indirect flow, and lower light for a week to heal. Avoid handling fleshy heads. If skeleton dust contacts tissue, gently baste it off to prevent irritation and recession.
My hammer’s tips are receding or turning brown—what’s the likely cause?

Direct, high flow can cut tissue on branch edges, and alk swings often trigger recession. Aim for random, moderate flow, maintain alk 8–9 dKH, Ca 420–460 ppm, Mg 1300–1400 ppm, and keep nitrate 5–15 ppm with detectable phosphate. If brown jelly appears, frag away affected branches, perform an iodine dip, and increase aeration and export.
Why did the vivid green fade under my lights, and how can I regain it?

Greens wash out under high white or excessive PAR. Target 80–150 PAR with a blue-leaning spectrum (heavy 420–470 nm). Avoid ultra-low nutrients; mild nitrate and phosphate support pigments. Trace elements matter, but stability beats dosing experiments—correct salinity and alk first. Expect color to rebound over weeks, not days, after adjustments.
Are torches or clownfish a problem for this coral?

Torches (F. glabrescens) are more aggressive; keep 6–8 inches distance minimum, more in high flow. Hammers tolerate many LPS, but nighttime sweepers can still sting neighbors. Persistent clownfish hosting often bruises tissue and invites infection; provide a substitute (e.g., large Euphyllia with thicker tentacles or a nem) and redirect flow to discourage hosting.

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Green Hammer Coral

Overview

Quick Facts

Recommended Parameters

Care & Placement

Euphyllia