How does Fimbriaphyllia paraancora differ from branching hammers in care and growth?

It’s a wall-forming hammer, growing as a continuous ridge rather than separate heads. That makes it slower to recover from damage and far riskier to frag. Give moderate, indirect flow that moves the tentacles gently, and light in the ~80–150 PAR range. Avoid sharp swings in alkalinity and temperature; a single recession can track along the wall and threaten the entire colony.

My Glow Tip Hammer’s tips faded from neon to pastel—what’s the likely cause?

Most often spectrum and nutrient balance. Blue/violet-heavy lighting (around 420–470 nm) sustains fluorescence, but high PAR or rapid changes can wash color. Keep NO3 ~5–15 ppm, PO4 ~0.03–0.1 ppm, and stable alk/Ca/Mg. Regular trace replenishment (iodine, manganese, iron) helps. Light-acclimate slowly over 2–3 weeks to prevent photobleaching.

How should I respond to brown jelly or a fast recession line on the wall?

Act immediately: isolate flow to prevent spread, gently siphon decay, then do an iodine dip. Increase oxygenation and steady temperature. If the necrosis advances, a precision cut with a diamond saw ahead of the dead tissue can save the healthy section; seal the cut edge with thick gel glue or putty. Follow with fresh carbon and larger, clean-flow turnover.

Can this coral touch other hammers or frogspawn without stinging?

Sometimes related species show partial tolerance, but stings still happen—especially at night when sweepers extend 2–4 inches. Give 3–6 inches of space and avoid direct, bouncing flow that whips tentacles into neighbors. Run high-quality carbon and maintain regular water changes to reduce chemical warfare. Watch for subtle burn lines or retracted tissue and adjust placement promptly.

Glow Tip Hammer Coral

Euphyllia Hammers LPS

Overview

Glow Tip Hammer Coral shows branching heads with hammer- or anchor-shaped tentacles tipped in bright color. Fimbriaphyllia paraancora is a branching large-polyp stony coral that prefers moderate light and gentle to moderate, indirect water flow. It relies on symbiotic algae for energy but benefits from occasional small meaty foods, which can support growth and maintain color. Give it ample space from other corals due to stinging sweeper tentacles and place it where polyps can move without rubbing on rockwork.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate

Lighting Moderate

Flow Moderate indirect

Placement Mid–Low

Temperament Semi-aggressive (6–8 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–9 dKH

Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped shrimp or krill, copepods, rotifers, zooplankton, LPS-specific coral foods

Care & Placement

Glow Tip Hammer Coral (Fimbriaphyllia paraancora) thrives under moderate light and gentle, indirect flow that creates a slow, rhythmic tentacle sway. Aim for 80–150 PAR; start on the lower end and light-acclimate over 1–2 weeks to avoid bleaching. Place mid to low in the tank, avoiding dead spots where detritus collects and away from direct pump output, which can tear tissue. Leave 6–8 inches of space from neighbors; this coral is semi-aggressive and can deploy stinging sweepers, especially toward torches. Target feed 1–2 times weekly with small meaty foods (mysis, enriched brine, reef roids mix) after lights dim to support growth and fuller polyp extension.Keep stable water: temperature 24–26°C (75–79°F), salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1250–1350 ppm, nitrate 2–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.10 ppm. Use reliable test kits and a refractometer; consider periodic ICP tests for trace contaminants. Acclimate with a 30–45 minute drip and shade the coral initially. Mount on stable rubble or a frag rack, avoiding pressure on the fleshy tissue. Common issues: bleaching from excess light or ultra-low nutrients; recession from alkalinity swings or pests; brown jelly disease after damage—immediately siphon, iodine dip, increase flow, and frag healthy heads if needed. Do not allow metals or rapid parameter changes. Gentle turkey-baster blasts during maintenance help prevent debris buildup around the base.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Glow Tip Hammer Coral

How does Fimbriaphyllia paraancora differ from branching hammers in care and growth?

It’s a wall-forming hammer, growing as a continuous ridge rather than separate heads. That makes it slower to recover from damage and far riskier to frag. Give moderate, indirect flow that moves the tentacles gently, and light in the ~80–150 PAR range. Avoid sharp swings in alkalinity and temperature; a single recession can track along the wall and threaten the entire colony.
My Glow Tip Hammer’s tips faded from neon to pastel—what’s the likely cause?

Most often spectrum and nutrient balance. Blue/violet-heavy lighting (around 420–470 nm) sustains fluorescence, but high PAR or rapid changes can wash color. Keep NO3 ~5–15 ppm, PO4 ~0.03–0.1 ppm, and stable alk/Ca/Mg. Regular trace replenishment (iodine, manganese, iron) helps. Light-acclimate slowly over 2–3 weeks to prevent photobleaching.
How should I respond to brown jelly or a fast recession line on the wall?

Act immediately: isolate flow to prevent spread, gently siphon decay, then do an iodine dip. Increase oxygenation and steady temperature. If the necrosis advances, a precision cut with a diamond saw ahead of the dead tissue can save the healthy section; seal the cut edge with thick gel glue or putty. Follow with fresh carbon and larger, clean-flow turnover.
Can this coral touch other hammers or frogspawn without stinging?

Sometimes related species show partial tolerance, but stings still happen—especially at night when sweepers extend 2–4 inches. Give 3–6 inches of space and avoid direct, bouncing flow that whips tentacles into neighbors. Run high-quality carbon and maintain regular water changes to reduce chemical warfare. Watch for subtle burn lines or retracted tissue and adjust placement promptly.

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Glow Tip Hammer Coral

Overview

Quick Facts

Recommended Parameters

Care & Placement

Euphyllia