Cotton Candy Torch Coral

Cotton Candy Torch Coral

Euphyllia LPS Torch

Overview

Cotton Candy Torch Coral has long, waving tentacles with pink tips and a contrasting base. Euphyllia glabrescens is a large-polyp stony coral with a branching skeleton; it prefers moderate lighting and gentle to moderate, indirect flow. It relies on symbiotic algae for energy but accepts small meaty foods, which can support faster growth and fuller polyp extension. Place it with space around the colony, as long sweeper tentacles can sting nearby corals and invertebrates.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate
Lighting Moderate
Flow Moderate indirect
Placement Mid–Low
Temperament Aggressive (6–10 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 77–80°F
pH 8.1–8.4
Salinity 1.025–1.026
Calcium 420–450 ppm
AlkAlkalinity 8–9.5 dKH
Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm
Feeding photosynthetic (primary), mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped krill or clam, zooplankton/copepods, microplankton, coral-specific microfoods (e.g., Reef Roids)

Care & Placement

Cotton Candy Torch Coral (Euphyllia glabrescens) prefers stable, clean water and moderate light and flow. Target PAR around 100–200 with gradual light acclimation; start on the sandbed and move to low–mid positions over 1–2 weeks. Provide indirect, oscillating flow strong enough to gently sway tentacles and keep debris from settling, but not so strong that tissue pulls from the skeleton. Feed 1–3 times weekly with small meaty foods (mysis, chopped shrimp) or coral foods; spot-feed with pumps off for 10–15 minutes. Maintain temperature 76–79°F (24.5–26°C), salinity 1.025–1.026 (35 ppt), pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH (stable), calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1250–1350 ppm, nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.10 ppm. Use reliable test kits and a refractometer; avoid rapid swings, especially in alkalinity.Place on a stable plug or isolated rock in low–mid tank areas with 6–10 inches of space from other corals; torches have long, stinging sweepers and can harm neighbors, including other Euphyllia. Handle by the plug, never the flesh. Dip and quarantine to exclude pests and pathogens. For acclimation, drip 30–60 minutes, dim lights the first week. Signs of stress: bleaching (too much light or sudden change)—lower light, increase feeding; recession or brown jelly—improve flow, siphon affected tissue, perform iodine dip, and stabilize parameters. Prevent tissue damage by avoiding direct jets and high, chaotic flow. Regularly inspect for detritus buildup, polyp retraction, and skeleton exposure to catch issues early.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Cotton Candy Torch Coral

  • My Cotton Candy Torch’s pink tips faded. Is this light or nutrients?
    Often both. Aim for moderate PAR (150–250) with strong blue/UV for fluorescence, but keep nutrients non-zero: NO3 around 5–15 ppm and PO4 0.03–0.10 ppm. Ultra‑low nutrients wash out color and reduce polyp extension. Stable alk 8–9 dKH, Ca 420–460 ppm, Mg 1350–1450 ppm. Avoid rapid changes; small, consistent adjustments bring color back over weeks.
  • Why are the tentacles short and “angry” despite good parameters?
    Flow is usually the culprit. Torches like a pulsing, indirect current—enough to sway but not whip. Pointed, laminar streams cause retraction. Check for irritants: vermetid snails casting mucus, hydroids, or stings from nearby corals. Run fresh carbon after any medication use, and verify no stray metals (especially copper) via ICP if retraction persists.
  • What’s the best way to prevent brown jelly disease on torches?
    Prevention: stability, moderate flow, and quick removal of damaged tissue. At first sign (brown, stringy slime, rapid recession), isolate the head, perform an iodine dip, and increase aeration/flow around the colony. Siphon loose jelly, trim necrotic areas, and maintain clean, oxygenated water. Keep nutrients reasonable and avoid large parameter corrections during recovery.
  • Can Cotton Candy Torches coexist with other Euphyllia?
    They’re often more aggressive than hammers/frogspawn, with sweepers reaching 6–10 inches at night. Give a wide buffer and avoid direct contact. Chemical competition can still occur in tight spaces, so run carbon and ensure good export. If mixing, place torches on the higher‑flow edge of the zone; they tolerate more movement than most Euphyllia cousins.