My Cherry Pie Blastomussa deflates during the day and swells at night—normal or a warning sign?

Moderate day deflation is normal as polyps manage light and flow; they often swell after lights dim to feed. If tissue stays shrunken for days, check for excess PAR (>120), direct flow, or alkalinity swings. Aim for low–moderate light (50–120 PAR), gentle indirect flow, stable alk 8–9 dKH, and target feed small meaty foods at dusk to encourage recovery.

How do I keep the vivid cherry-red coloration from washing out?

This morph holds best color under blue-heavy spectrum, moderate PAR, and non-starved nutrients. Avoid ultra-low nutrients; keep nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm. Too much white light or sudden nutrient drops can push browning or green shift. Maintain iodine and trace via regular water changes, and shield from direct high intensity to prevent bleaching of red pigments.

The heads look fine but the edges are receding—what’s usually to blame?

Edge recession often traces to chronic irritation or instability: vermetid snail webs, sand abrasion, direct laminar flow, or alk swings. Inspect for vermetids and filamentous worms; manually remove or glue over offenders. Redirect flow to be diffuse. Keep alk swings under 0.3 dKH/day. If tissue is sloughing, siphon debris, dip in iodine, and increase gentle aeration/flow to deter bacterial buildup.

Is sandbed placement better than rockwork for growth and feeding?

Sandbed suits B. wellsi if clean and low flow; it reduces shadowing and makes target feeding easier. Use a small tile or disc under the colony to prevent sand abrasion and detritus packing. On rock, choose a sheltered ledge with indirect flow. In both cases, guard feedings from shrimp with a dome, and rotate placement slightly if you notice chronic tissue rubbing or sediment accumulation.

Cherry Pie Blastomussa Coral

Blastomussa

Overview

Cherry Pie Blastomussa Coral features fleshy, round polyps with bright red and green centers. Blastomussa wellsi is a large-polyp stony coral that forms clustered heads; it prefers low to moderate light and gentle to moderate water flow. It is photosynthetic via symbiotic algae but benefits from occasional small meaty foods, which can improve growth and coloration. Place on stable rock or sand with space around it, as its sweeper tentacles can sting nearby corals.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate

Lighting Low–Moderate

Flow Low–Moderate

Placement Low–Mid

Temperament Peaceful (2–3 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–9 dKH

Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped seafood (clam, krill), zooplankton, microplankton, coral-specific powdered foods

Care & Placement

Cherry Pie Blastomussa Coral (Blastomussa wellsi) does best in stable, low to moderate light (PAR ~50–100) and gentle, indirect flow. Place it low to mid in the tank, often on the sandbed or a stable rubble rock, with 3–6 inches of space from neighbors. It’s generally peaceful with short sweepers, but keep it away from aggressive stingers like Galaxea and some Euphyllia. Target feed 2–3 times weekly with small meaty foods (mysis, finely chopped shrimp) or fine coral foods; feed at dusk or when feeder tentacles are out to boost growth and coloration. Maintain temperature 75–78°F (24–26°C), salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 420–460 ppm, magnesium 1280–1380 ppm, nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.08 ppm. Test weekly with reliable kits and dose as needed to keep levels steady.Acclimate with a 30–45 minute drip and start in partial shade, increasing light over 1–2 weeks. Avoid intense light or strong, direct flow; both can cause bleaching or tissue recession. Gently baste the colony occasionally to prevent detritus buildup between fleshy polyps. If polyps stay shrunken, check for pests (vermetid snails, nudibranchs), excess flow, or nutrient starvation from ultra-low nutrients. Recession at the rim often points to instability in alkalinity or salinity swings. Stable parameters, moderate feeding, and patient light acclimation are the keys to long-term success.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Cherry Pie Blastomussa Coral

My Cherry Pie Blastomussa deflates during the day and swells at night—normal or a warning sign?

Moderate day deflation is normal as polyps manage light and flow; they often swell after lights dim to feed. If tissue stays shrunken for days, check for excess PAR (>120), direct flow, or alkalinity swings. Aim for low–moderate light (50–120 PAR), gentle indirect flow, stable alk 8–9 dKH, and target feed small meaty foods at dusk to encourage recovery.
How do I keep the vivid cherry-red coloration from washing out?

This morph holds best color under blue-heavy spectrum, moderate PAR, and non-starved nutrients. Avoid ultra-low nutrients; keep nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm. Too much white light or sudden nutrient drops can push browning or green shift. Maintain iodine and trace via regular water changes, and shield from direct high intensity to prevent bleaching of red pigments.
The heads look fine but the edges are receding—what’s usually to blame?

Edge recession often traces to chronic irritation or instability: vermetid snail webs, sand abrasion, direct laminar flow, or alk swings. Inspect for vermetids and filamentous worms; manually remove or glue over offenders. Redirect flow to be diffuse. Keep alk swings under 0.3 dKH/day. If tissue is sloughing, siphon debris, dip in iodine, and increase gentle aeration/flow to deter bacterial buildup.
Is sandbed placement better than rockwork for growth and feeding?

Sandbed suits B. wellsi if clean and low flow; it reduces shadowing and makes target feeding easier. Use a small tile or disc under the colony to prevent sand abrasion and detritus packing. On rock, choose a sheltered ledge with indirect flow. In both cases, guard feedings from shrimp with a dome, and rotate placement slightly if you notice chronic tissue rubbing or sediment accumulation.

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