Why does my Blue Raspberry Blastomussa lose its blue/pink pop over time even though it looks healthy?

Color shift usually follows spectrum and nutrient balance rather than health alone. Aim for blue-heavy lighting (14–20K) at low PAR (50–120), stable alkalinity 8–9 dKH, nitrate 2–10 ppm, phosphate 0.02–0.08 ppm. Excess white light or very low nutrients can mute reds; elevated nutrients can brown blues. Reduce direct light, increase blue channels, and keep trace elements stable through regular water changes.

My B. wellsi retracts for days after a move—how can I tell stress from disease?

Temporary deflation with intact, glossy tissue is typical stress. Disease shows jelly-like sloughing, foul odor, and rapid tissue loss. For stress, reduce light by 20–30%, lower flow to gentle, and pause feeding 24–48 hours. For suspected brown jelly, remove necrotic areas, perform an iodine dip, raise flow slightly to prevent stagnation, and maintain high oxygenation. Stability usually restores extension within a week.

How can I propagate a Blue Raspberry Blastomussa without damaging the heads?

Use a diamond saw to cut between corallite walls, not through them. Make a single, clean pass with slow feed rate, then dip in iodine and place in low light, low–moderate flow. Mount so fleshy rims don’t rub. Wait 7–10 days before feeding; then offer small mysis or reef roids at night. Healing is faster with stable alk/Ca and minimal detritus on the cut.

What’s the best feeding strategy to increase polyp size without causing problems?

Target feed small, meaty foods once or twice weekly after lights down, when tentacles extend. Use fine particle foods or minced mysis; avoid large chunks that tear tissue. Stop flow briefly, feed lightly, then restore gentle flow to clear leftovers. Overfeeding can drive nutrient spikes and invite bacterial issues; watch for film on tissue or stink—both signal it’s time to reduce portions.

Blue Raspberry Blastomussa Coral

Blastomussa

Overview

Blue Raspberry Blastomussa Coral has thick, fleshy polyps with circular ridges and contrasting mouths. Blastomussa wellsi is a large-polyp stony coral forming dome-shaped colonies; it prefers low to moderate lighting and gentle, low to moderate water flow. It is photosynthetic with symbiotic algae but benefits from occasional small meaty foods, which support growth and color. Place on the sandbed or a stable lower rock and leave space from nearby corals to avoid stings.

Quick Facts

Care Easy

Lighting Low–Moderate

Flow Low–Moderate

Placement Low–Mid

Temperament Semi-aggressive (2–3 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–9 dKH

Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped seafood (clam, shrimp, fish), zooplankton, copepods, microplankton, powdered coral foods

Care & Placement

Blue Raspberry Blastomussa Coral (Blastomussa wellsi) does best with stable, moderate conditions and gentle care. Provide low to moderate lighting (50–100 PAR); start in shade and increase slowly to avoid bleaching and retracted polyps. Use low, indirect flow to keep flesh from whipping while still moving debris off the heads; a brief, gentle baster puff prevents detritus buildup. Target feed small meaty foods (mysis, enriched brine, reef roids) 1–2 times weekly, ideally after lights dim when feeding tentacles appear. Keep temperature 75–78°F (24–26°C), pH 8.1–8.4, salinity 1.025–1.026, calcium 400–450 ppm, alkalinity 8–9.5 dKH, magnesium 1250–1350 ppm, nitrate 2–10 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.08 ppm. Test weekly and dose to maintain stability; avoid rapid swings, especially in alkalinity and salinity.Place low to mid in the tank on a stable rock ledge or sandbed with a hard base under it. Allow 2–3 inches of space from neighbors; this coral is generally peaceful but can be damaged by stinging species like Favia, Galaxea, or aggressive Euphyllia. Acclimate by drip (30–45 minutes) and light-acclimate using reduced photoperiod or screen for a week. Watch for tissue recession along the skeleton (often from high flow or parameter swings) and for pale color from excess light. Inspect for vermetid snails or flatworms; remove promptly. Use an auto top-off to hold salinity steady, and quarantine new additions to prevent pests. Stable conditions and gentle flow/light typically result in full, inflated polyps and steady growth.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Blue Raspberry Blastomussa Coral

Why does my Blue Raspberry Blastomussa lose its blue/pink pop over time even though it looks healthy?

Color shift usually follows spectrum and nutrient balance rather than health alone. Aim for blue-heavy lighting (14–20K) at low PAR (50–120), stable alkalinity 8–9 dKH, nitrate 2–10 ppm, phosphate 0.02–0.08 ppm. Excess white light or very low nutrients can mute reds; elevated nutrients can brown blues. Reduce direct light, increase blue channels, and keep trace elements stable through regular water changes.
My B. wellsi retracts for days after a move—how can I tell stress from disease?

Temporary deflation with intact, glossy tissue is typical stress. Disease shows jelly-like sloughing, foul odor, and rapid tissue loss. For stress, reduce light by 20–30%, lower flow to gentle, and pause feeding 24–48 hours. For suspected brown jelly, remove necrotic areas, perform an iodine dip, raise flow slightly to prevent stagnation, and maintain high oxygenation. Stability usually restores extension within a week.
How can I propagate a Blue Raspberry Blastomussa without damaging the heads?

Use a diamond saw to cut between corallite walls, not through them. Make a single, clean pass with slow feed rate, then dip in iodine and place in low light, low–moderate flow. Mount so fleshy rims don’t rub. Wait 7–10 days before feeding; then offer small mysis or reef roids at night. Healing is faster with stable alk/Ca and minimal detritus on the cut.
What’s the best feeding strategy to increase polyp size without causing problems?

Target feed small, meaty foods once or twice weekly after lights down, when tentacles extend. Use fine particle foods or minced mysis; avoid large chunks that tear tissue. Stop flow briefly, feed lightly, then restore gentle flow to clear leftovers. Overfeeding can drive nutrient spikes and invite bacterial issues; watch for film on tissue or stink—both signal it’s time to reduce portions.