On the reef, Halichoeres garnoti hunts benthic invertebrates, taking fireworms, pyramidellid snails, flatworms, and assorted small planktonic and invertebrate prey it picks from rock and sand. That carnivorous appetite translates directly to the aquarium. Offer vitamin-enriched frozen mysis and brine shrimp, other finely chopped meaty seafoods, marine flake, and marine pellets so the fish receives a varied intake rather than a single item.
Small, frequent meals suit its high activity level best; three to four feedings spread across the day keep a specimen in good weight. Condition at purchase matters a great deal, because newly imported or emaciated individuals can be stubborn to bring back to health. Observe the fish feeding before committing to it, then acclimate slowly over several hours before releasing it into the display.
Other peaceful wrasses, fairy wrasses, and gobies make appropriate companions, while triggers and other belligerent fishes should be excluded. In a reef, this wrasse is reef safe with caution: sessile invertebrates such as soft and stony corals are left alone, and the fish earns its keep by consuming pest flatworms and pyramidellid snails. The same hunting instinct endangers ornamental invertebrates, however, so small shrimp, crabs, fan worms, and decorative snails are all at risk.
FAQ
Frequently Asked Questions
About the Neon Wrasse
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Is the Neon Wrasse safe to keep with corals?
It does not bother soft or stony corals and actively eats pest flatworms and pyramidellid snails. It remains reef safe with caution because small shrimp, crabs, fan worms, and ornamental snails may be eaten. -
How large should the aquarium be for an adult Neon Wrasse?
Plan on at least 75 gallons of well-filtered, established water with open swimming room. A tight-fitting lid is necessary, since this wrasse jumps. -
What substrate does this wrasse require?
A fine-grained sand bed of at least two to three inches, and deeper if possible. The fish burrows into the sand to sleep and to escape perceived danger.